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I used rear drum stubs, early 110 front hubs, 110 solid front disc, 110 rear caliper, brackets, spacer between bracket and the axle.

engine mounts are very different. The easy option would be to cut the brackets off what ever the engine come out of and weld them to the chassis.

Set it to 1.6 with your dial gauge

Is it really overheating or is it just the gauge that says it overheats. Are the transmitter and gauge matched.

TD5s have had an immobiliser bypass box for years.

Ok anyone know anything about body module / immibiliser / ecu....specifically the immoiliser signal to ecu. I know how it works....the ecm wont start the engine unless it gets the required answer from the body module v8 and td5 both work the same way...the ecm needs the signal from the bcm To the question....are the body modules the same? Give or take part numbers....is it the same signal that is sent back to the ECMs? obviously paired with each other. I have a small box the emulates the BCM signal for a TD5 to allow it to run standalone. Will this same emulator work with a v8 ECM. Or who sells a v8 immibiliser emulator.

Id take it all out complete from the front. Have done it with 300tdis and v8s on defender and RRC. Front antiroll bar needs unbolted if you have one, v8 exhaust front pipes need to come off to pass the engine mountings Disco ones out the front if its scrap....cut the landing panel off. Ive taken gear boxes out when the engines has been staying in....none have slid out under the chassis. Needed to raise the chassis a good few inches to get them out.

get a propshaft socket << get one off these If they are destroyed you can easilly cut the heads off the bolts with a grinder

I have 300tdi, 4hp22, 1.2 all from a disco in mine. Also same size tyres. I have that problem Im thinking 35" tyres and a 1.6 transfer box unless a rotton td5 auto disco shows up

I just welded it back together with 4 wee welds where the rivets were.

I have a disco 300tdi and autobox in a 90. The disco oil cooler pipes are a few of inches to long to be a direct fit. Ive used them but cut and joined at the rubber part.

Going by the pics the engine has been hot Back to the start...white smoke = air in the fuel Oil in the intake....theres always oil in the intake pipes. Ive never seen an intercooler/pipes without oil in them even almost new stuff. There is always oil vapor in the system from the breather. All engines breath even brand new ones Id put it all back together, fix your valve seals and drive it. Is it worth trying to fix something thats as knackered that it can be bored without liners when you can pick up a second hand engine thatll be as good as new.

ANy oil in the cylinders arrived there when the engine was off....if it was running the oil would be burnt.....thats what diesels are. Oil burners Must have ran in from the valve stems or the inlet manifold....it didnt run up hill I blown head gasket...near no 8 push rod is common and blows oil through the breather in to the intake. or just blow by in a worn engine. or Turbo worn. Heater plugs are of no importance unless you live in the artic. My 300tdi starts white with frost straight away in North Scotland and the heater plugs arent even wired up.

No point in having any lockers if you dont have tyres.....get decent tyres....not BFG...and run them at a low pressure.

You take the 3 wire part off by removing the sheer bolts and theres a normal stop solenoid unerneath it

Engine braking is overrated. I regular offroad in non standard class in my rangerover....its been a 3.9 v8 auto and its now a 300tdi auto....I only every use D and R If its steep downhill I brake with the brakes...if it slides a bit then let the brakes off a bit...if it slides a lot...give it throttle

I changed a petrol to 300tdi. Needed an engineers report stating it was safe. Did not need an engine number...it was unreadable. An engine number means nothing anyway....you could stamp any number on it.

I used a grinder to remove just enough to allow them to turn....never been a problem since

what ive done in the past is disconnect the intake pipe somewhere between the intercooler and the inlet manifold....drive it and the boost blows out all the oil.....messy but fast. you do need a power washer though

Welded 100s of cars and never disconnect the battery Ive welded exhausts with the engine running to make sure theres no leaks Ive never had an electrical issue but did set fire to a sierra seatbelt when welding a sill once, that was a wee bit off a bonfire inside the door pillar

if the number is stamped on the chassis thats all you need to be legal

Dont know if it makes a difference....the theory suggests it would. I did it and a few fuel pump tweeks to my last 300tdi before I put it on the road so dont know what it would have been like before I fiddled with it ....maybe better Dont know about that. I had a boost gauge and it went straight to just over 1bar no bother. But again I suppose if the waste gate didnt start to move until 1bar you;d have a few seconds more of full pressure. I do have a turbosmart boost controller that I never fitted to the last one....I'll have to dig it out once I get this 300tdi on the road

the lights that light up the speedo temp fuel ? They are on a switch down at the rh side of the dash. The interior light switch/dash light

Ive heard the easy way is cut it in half and fit it in then weld it back together. DOnt know if you'd get it in with the rear footwell floor removed.... it would have to be half removed anyway to remove/lift the tub. I have changed both that x members but the tub was off anyway. Which wasn't that bad. unbolted and removed the rear door and rear side panels, just lifted the roof a few mm to get the panels out...then tub off.

I used disco pipes same as Litch, cut them and joined at the flex bit with hose clips....theres no great pressure in it. Theres no reason a normal manual brake pedal wont pass the Mot test. I have a rangerover converted to auto I use for offroading....it passes with a normal pedal, still has the clutch pedal fitted too just in case I go back to manual