Boris113

I would try to hammer a smaller socket on first, if that doesn't work then get the welding gear out. I had to do the latter with one of my calliper bolts.

You could fit the larger tyres and then play with boost and fuelling to compensate for the loss in acceleration

There was an article in one of the landy magazines (LRO??) a few years ago about a bloke that took a series 1 80 inch, series 3 transmission, axles etc then race tuned a 5 bearing 2.25. To top it all off he fitted an Eaton supercharger from a Cooper S! It looked like quite a hoot and was apparently quite fast.

Some of the questions asked are pretty good also!

Dad's 90 runs 255 85r16s on standard suspension. They fill the arches nicely and it handles well. I have used to 33 12.5 r15s but changed to 285s and a 2inch lift. My 90 now corners like it's on rails. The only reasons for the lift were that my suspension was very worn and to be able to fit some 35 inch simex tyres at a later date though

How soon do you need to drive one? Mine will be done in a few weeks and is between Uppingham and Market Harborough if you are that side of the shire? Harry

Approx 16 / 17 inches on a 300tdi. Harry

Good idea about storing it in a bag! It probably didn't help that mine was left in a cold garage for several winters. I would also agree with the satin option. I used matt originally and dirt sticks to it really badly. Marks show up more and it isn't as easy to patch up later. There is a good thread on the landyzone forum about brush/roller painting, I will try and find it. Edit: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/goodbye-90-hello-110-project-164878-2.html http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/how-hand-paint-landy-pictures-152225.html

I bought 10l of nato green a few years back, I've probably used half the can and put about half a dozen coats on the 90 now. (mine is a soft top so a bit less to paint needed though) 5l should be more than enough and you will have plenty to touch up later on. I wouldn't advise buying a 10l can unless you are going to use it all within a year or so, the remainder of my can has now formed a thick skin and is lumpy no matter how much it is stirred.

It depends whether the galvanising is old or new. Paint (even etch primer) won't stick well to new galv whereas it will to old stuff. To ensure it lasts you can either leave the galv bits outside to 'weather' for at least a few months or paint them with t-wash/mordant solution. This effectivley ages the outer surface of the galvanising, wash it off then apply etch primer then paint as normal. I used T-wash on my galvansied chassis after Richards Chassis' advised me to and no complaints yet. My mate had a new galv bumper which he applied etch primer straight to and 2 years on the paint is coming off....

Sorry to go off topic, but why are 90 front springs a higher rating than those on a 110? Thanks, Harry

Get underneath with a big pry bar and wiggle it around. Another way is to have somebody rock the steering wheel and after; the vehicle, play will often show up with either of these. Harry

Is it generally clicking when your are turning sharply, especially in difflock? I had something similar and it turned out I had blown a CV joint.

Remember to use plenty of copper grease...you will thank yourself next time!

Are you replacing just springs and shocks? It's worth ordering a new pair of turret rings at the same time, they are usually rusty or have seized bolts. At the same time check your suspension turrets whilst you can see them properly. As with most jobs pressure wash underneath to remove most of the carp then once dry wire brush around all the bolts and apply WD40 in advance or better still use plus-gas. It makes everything so much easier when you come to undo it. It's a pretty simple job, just take your time and be methodical. Depending on how many parts you are changing, you may find a 2nd jack to be pretty helpful.

I have seen someone use the handbrake lever from a JCB 3CX and mount that on the top of the seatbox, that seemed to work well.

The steering column would also need extending.

Thanks all, I think I will make some up, rivet them on and see how they work / what the MOT tester says. If it's a no them back to pedal rubbers. I also had a thought yesterday, good quality mountainbike pedals are made of metal with replacement grub screws. I've got them on my racing bike and they stick to shoes like turd to a blanket so that may be something to consider. @specialbikejames: Thats a good idea, i think I've got some marine grip tape left over so that may also be an idea, It works well when wet but not sure how well it would work when covered in mud. Harry

I've had a full set from them (spanners 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" etc) which is similar to the big halfords one. It cost be £30 and lives in the 90. The ratchets aren't great but other than that I can't fault it. I would have bought a halfords version but there is nowhere in the 90 that I can lock it up (soft top). The sockets have stood up well to abuse from a rattle gun! I also had a set of spanners from aldi 3 years ago for a tenner. My mate used it and sheared an m10 8.8 bolt before the spanner let go! For things that will get wet/rusty, lent to people on play days and lost in mud they are ideal The stuff in my garage consists of Sealey Pro (good for the money) Halfords Pro (very good for the money and good returns policy) and a few bits of Snap-on but only when they are on offer and the bloke in the van will haggle for cash I've also got dad's 25 year old Kamasa set, the ratchet has only just broken and the set has never been looked after but it's still going strong. For general Land Rover work you can't go too far wrong with the Halfords pro sets.

Ah that makes sense! I would be rather concerned about driving it on the road, I can imagine it handles like a farm quadbike with a solid rear axle i.e. when you turn on tarmac nothing happens as the tyres fight each other then the back end 'jumps' around. He said on the Pirate thread (very funny btw) that he plans to tow a show trailer with it, that can't be safe if my above thoughts are correct?

I have a mate with an ex-utilities 110. His has a wooden bulkhead built behind the seats (with prespex window) and lockers built on top of the seatboxes. I can dig out the camera and take some pictures if you are still after some?

I know it doesn't solve the clearance issue but have you looked into wide angle or custom made props? My limited student budget approach to body clearance was to take the grinder to the bodywork I'm sure there are better ways but it seems to have worked ok and enables more upward travel without lifting the vehicle any higher.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/8x8-defender-187040.html A few more pics of it here I fail to understand how he's addressed the problem of dragging his rear tyres on corners or building transmission wind up between the rear axles leading to something going bang? Would it not either need rear steer or steering on both front axles a la HGV tipper lorrys?

Thanks guys! I know chequer can be slippy but anything must be better than slippy muddy rubber! I've got a few small bits of 2mm plate so time to break out the angle grinder and have a play! Mike, good idea to widen the pedals, I think I shall follow suit! Are there any legal issues surrounding this? I've heard of vehicles failing the MOT due to worn/no pedal rubbers... Harry

Is it legal to remove the pedal rubbers from the clutch and brake pedal and then rivet on a thin bit of chequer plate? The reason I ask is when my boots are caked in mud offroading, it's often easy to slip off the pedal when you stamp on it. My series 3 never had any rubbers, somebody had just put a criss-cross pattern of weld on them which worked well and went through the MOT everytime. It's a 1989 90 if it makes any difference. Thanks, Harry