Boris113

Last time I had this I put a small notch in the end of the thread with a hacksaw. That way you can hold it with a flat head screw driver and tighten with a ratchet ring spanner. Harry

It shouldn't be an issue, the inlet/outlet are roughly the same size. Are you looking for a square plastic filter box from a 300tdi disco or the round metal can from a 300 defender? I've got the plastic option sitting in the shed if that is of any use? I would have thought ebay would give you a rough price to what safari snorkels are fetching secondhand. Harry

X-plate? Great looking product by the way, as above will it work with rubber mats etc?

This might be of use to you, Cummins 6bt into a defender: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/doing-impossble-cummins-6bt-into-90-a-175358.html Harry

I've had a couple of bulkhead repair sections from them in the past and have been very impressed with their quality. Last time I rang all members of staff were at the LRO show, they still managed to post parts to me in under 2 days for no extra cost.

Getting it out took a real pounding so I didn't try to fit the new one with the vice, popped down to the local ag supplier and used his nice 46t press! It took the best part of 4 minutes. Harry

My springs are far too firm to make the springs hit the bumpstops over speedbumps...no matter how fast I try to go! I think by removing the rear springs and then lifting one wheel with the forklift I should be able to check, there should be very little resistance other than bushes, a-frame ball joint and shocks to prevent it doing so. I'll let you know how I get on. Harry

Mine came out with a very large hammer also...but i did manage to smash the vice off the bench at the same time!

@ moose: Sorry, they don't bottom out on the front, only on the rears. Next time i'm in the workshop I may remove the springs on the back and have a play with the forklift, it could be just that the spring doesn't compress any more due to a light back end and medium duty springs...I just presumed it was the shocks bottoming out. @ mike c: i do have a lot of droop and not much upward travel, as above it could be that my springs are too firm and preventing any more travel I'll let you guys know how i get on with the forklift. Harry

Did the same on my 90 2 years ago and it's not gone wrong yet! You could always try tightening the nut onto the balljoint when it's out of the axle with a torque wrench, then place a spanner on and try to turn it to get an idea of much torque to apply, then undo it, place it through axle and go again with the spanner...but that is only a rough guide. FT usually seems to work for A-frames. Harry

Thanks for the advice guys. Could anyone recommend a good but reasonably cheap water trap? As for thinners/ gun cleaner can I use petrol/white spirit or would that leave an oily residue in the gun? Harry

I have +5 terrafirma shocks and +2 terrafirma springs with extended bump stops and gwyn lewis shock mounts, my shocks still bottom out before the axle hit the bumpstops. I've not had any problems with damaging the shocks in 18months of use, apparently the TF shocks have inbuilt bumpstops to prevent damage. Harry

So after this thread a while ago: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=73409 I worked out amongst other things that it was too cold to attempt to paint the 90 in mid winter in a garage with no heating! Since then I've had a couple of goes with a roller and it has come up ok, but I've now managed to lay my hands on a compressor and suction-fed spray gun. I've got the gun, air lines, paint and compressor but am slightly confused with the compressor set up. Obviously a combined air filter and lubricator is a bad idea because that will mix air tool oil into the paint but do I need to include a moisture trap into the line? The compressor has an outlet with a built in regulator so that is all ok. I'm also confused about cleaning the gun, how much of it should I take to bits to clean it. Because it is oil-based paint it takes a bit more scrubbing than water based and I dont want to trash the gun. Thanks, Harry

http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=46122 This thread says you can get them from Devon 4x4, might be worth giving them a call. Most of the waterboard vehicles etc are built specially by Land Rover Special Vehicles so you could try contacting them, failing that somebody that prepares expedition vehicles, foley or footloose 4x4 may be able to hope you. Harry

Thanks for all the advice chaps, I shall try and get the murex for a good price but failing that portamig seem to have a very good reputation on the internet as do oxford so they will be the next ports of call. Harry

Conveyor belt rubber is very good stuff to use, and often free if you ask nicely at a local quarry etc. Harry

Hi guys, A friend has offered me a Murex Tradesmig Challenger 186c in good condition for a good price. Does anyone know the value of this new and secondhand? I just wondered how good a welder it was compared to a similar miller or migatronic, all of which I would be buying secondhand. The other option for my £500 budget is a new sealey mightymig 190, would this be a better buy or not? It will be welding anything from car bodywork to rollcages and winch trays so needs to be fairly powerful but work off singlephase. Thanks in advance, Harry

I have heard of some people fitting standard TD5 intercoolers onto TDi's however reviews are mixed, whilst in theory they have a larger cooling area; due to the inlet/outlet pipes being on different sides, the extended pipework can reduce the potential gains. It might be worth looking on ebay for uprated car versions, i.e escort rs as above. Prices seem to start at just over £100 and it's simply a case of finding one with the right dimensions and modifying the pipework. Harry

I have a military roll bar in my soft top 90, it replaces the middle hoodstick, or in your case the rear one, The diagonals may be a problem for you because of the back your hood, however I have seen truckcab soft tops using the same bar with the diagonals in place. I have the seatbelts attached to the roll bar for both the full canvas and a bikini top with no problems. Harry

Stable matting is good and will certainly last well, it is very heavy however. Harry

Sorry the pics didn't all appear. I dont have any more pics up-close but I can dig the top out of the shed to take some more if needed. Harry

Sorry about the time delay, here are some pics for you. -I started by taking the mushroom top and cutting each vane away from the outer cover. For this I used a 3 inch grinder but you may be able to use a junior hacksaw. -Next you split the two and take the inner part. Inside there is a metal X that helps the cyclone action, these need trimming at 45degrees because otherwise they hit the inside of the cone filter when it's placed over. -After that I took the cone filter and slid it over the trimmed X, to make it fit I had to remove some of the rubber from the inside with a die grinder, this allows the filter to wedge onto the inner part of the mushroom top and hold securely. -Finally put the two parts of the mushroom back together, first time round I glued the top of the filter to the inside of the mushroom top but it didn't work so i tack welded a couple of the vanes back to the outer cover. You could use a bolt instead though. As and when you need to clean the filter, you can either cut the welds apart again to blow it out with a compressor or sling the whole thing in the dishwasher then dry it out and spray with WD40. IIRC there are 2 small holes at the top of the mushroom that are designed to throw out dirt/water as the cyclone action spins it, these did need widening a bit to work properly. Once all done I gave it a lick of hammerite. It was done in a bit of a hurry and didn't look particularly neat but no different from the outside. Harry

What about a breaker bar and socket from underneath? Harry

I need to find a way to attach the rear brake pipe, axle beather, wiring and fuel lines to the galvanised chassis. All of the small plastic clips and the corresponding chassis inserts from my old chassis are broken but I was wondering whether to buy new ones or use stainless P-clips and screw them into the chassis? The holes would only be small so shouldn't damage the galv too much (many can go in the existing holes) and they will hold them very securely. The wiring loom will be run outside of the chassis but I will probably just use conduit and zip ties for that. Does this seem like the right way to go or should I just stick with the proper clips? Thanks, Harry

Thanks guys Harry