Boris113

Evening all, I have recently swapped the engine over in my 90 after the last one fell ill, it's a 300tdi on the original LT77 box. I reused the original clutch because it only had 15k on it and it looked in good condition, along with the flywheel from the 1st 300tdi but a new release bearing was popped in. It all went together nicely but even after a litre of fluid through it, the clutch still won't operate properly. It feels right on the foot but grinds when it goes into gear and the gears are difficult to engage also. If I do get it into gear then biting point is nicely in the middle as before. The only think I can think that I may have done wrong is over-torque the clutch cover to 34 ft/lbs rather than 34nm - would this cause the above effect? I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow and look but does anyone have any suggestions? Master and Slave cylinder don't appear to be leaking and have recently been changed. Many thanks, Harry

We have XZLs fitted to the works 110s, they are surprisingly noisy and follow tramlines in the road quite badly. They are not great on wet tarmac either. I have tried Km2s and also Cooper STTs and they are both much better on all counts HTH

I've used a combination of ratchet straps and reduced tyre pressures with good results before. Old steel LR rims are cheap on ebay, you could get some knackered car tyres with a small sidewall from your tyre place and fit them if it is going to be in there for a while.

Thanks for all of the advice, I have an old canvas so will try a bit of Thompsons and also Fabsil on that for a test and then decide. Had a look for the Gourocks but it only seems to be available in Aus/NZ which is a shame has it gets good reviews on the internet. Unfortunately having just bought this canvas, I don't want to buy another one so re-proofing it is. The hood doesn't need to be 100% watertight given that it is stored indoors for most of the year but a little drier would be nice. Many thanks

I purchased a new canvas for the 90 from another forum and whilst it's drastically better than the old ex-mod one, it doesn't seem to be more than shower proof. It's not a fancy Exmoor one (judging by backwards buckles etc I would hazard a guess at Britpart) but it was brand new when I received it and has only seen rain 10 times since fitting in the summer. Once the canvas material becomes saturated water starts to build up on the inside of the roof eventually dripping everywhere and soaking the seats, seatbelts and me. Much like an old tent, it gets even worse if you touch the inside! Has anyone used Fabsil or any other of the other re-proofing liquids with positive results? I used some years ago but it darkened the material and I would rather not do that to a new sand coloured hood. Thanks in advance, Harry

My passenger seatbelt went missing during the rebuild last year so I removed the seat for the MOT, it came back with an advisory but otherwise passed. The tester asked that I swing by the following week once I had replaced the belt and refitted the seat just to confirm but he had no legal requirement to do so. Likewise I had a test a few years ago after a bulkhead swap and couldn't get the wipers to work in time, the roof was already off so we removed the windscreen and drove there in ski goggles. It passed with no issues. You should be fine

I you are concerned about the legalities, could you mount a proper number plate on the bulkhead flap or the windscreen brace if you have a roll cage.

I may have a couple of the brackets that attach to the inside of the hardtop sides if that is of any use?

Having bought a TD5 bonnet recently, they are definitely lighter. They also have a different bonnet prop IIRC

I'd thought about that but don't have the equipment to bend an HD arm and have only spent 24 hours in the UK since buying the vehicle in June Fingers crossed there may be a way of installing the track rod from underneath, gaining about 1.5 inches of clearance but this is dependent on the tapers of the TREs. An RB44 truck has a track rod that looks about right for your suggestion, it would just require shortening and drilling/tapping for the TREs. I have one in the shed so will have a look when I'm back

Sounds like it's ok for the money then, I am planning to crimp 40mm2 leccy cable so hopefully that should take the slack in the 35mm dies. Don't worry it won't be used for any safety critical crimping on wire rope, more for making check straps for hinged items in another project etc. Thanks guys

Great work Al Not sure I can offer much in an Toyota technical sense but having recently bought a 90 with 80-series axles fitted via standard LR suspension, I would be happy to take measurements etc if you require. They were built up on a jig and look to be fitted well including LR props. Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the track rod fouling the radius arms, the previous owner of mine simply cut notches out of the radius arms for clearance - not a solution I am very fond of. Harry

Thought it best to resurrect a thread with plenty of good info than start from scratch. I would like to buy the fleabay hydraulic crimper that has been mentioned throughout this thread but was unable to find the link, would it be this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-4mm-70mm-8-Ton-Force-Hydraulic-Crimper-Cable-Wire-Crimping-Tool-Kit-9-Die-/111419323328?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item19f11bf3c0 I notice some say that they can crimp ferules onto wire also, would this tool be capable of doing that, for example some new tailgate straps for the 90?

Well for once this looks like a nice and simple job, thank you for the info all The current fuel filler is a standard 1989 unit and it looks that the extendable fit simply drops in. I notice that the fuel caps are different part nos however, are they interchangeable? My current cap has a little ring on the inside that looks like it was made for the cap chain and I would rather not have to buy a new one also. Harry Eightpot, a PM is on it's way

I'm fed up of pouring diesel down the side of the 90 when filling up from containers and would like to fit some form of extendable fuel filler neck that would operate in a similar way to the older Series versions. Having had a search on Google, there are a few mentions of it but no part numbers or pictures, has anyone done this previously and is it an easy job? Currently I have the standard fuel filler in the conventional Tdi 90 location. I'm happy to butcher the fuel filler neck etc but would rather not start cutting holes in the bodywork. Thanks in advance, Harry

I have used Premier Galvanising in Peterborough and found them to be good, although that was not for small LR parts. A mate had a winch bumper done by a place in Bristol and that came out well. I know neither are particularly close, but IIRC the Bristol one will collect/deliver.

A late 200tdi should be fine, the bolts will be metric as will the 300tdi replacement casing. Some early 200tdi units had imperial fixings, they are identified by having imperial 6 point calliper bolts rather than the later 12 point metric versions. You can still do the swap from an imperial axle to a metric. IIRC all that is required is the later 12 point calliper bolts and a friendly engineer to enlarge the bolt holes on the earlier callipers. A slide hammer may be required to remove the centre from the 300 diff pinion to enable access to the main flange nut. Your 200tdi flange should bolt on.

I refitted it to the outside, cutting a slot as you had done. It's a real pain to get it close enough to allow the bolts through but it is doable. Fitting longer bolts may make it easier as will a second pair of hands. HTH Harry

We fitted a set to dad's 90 a little while ago and found them to be great, they are significantly better in the wet than the old versions and quieter also. I can't comment on the longevity of them, we sold the vehicle shortly after.

Mercedes Sprinter vans also have a similar bottle jack, they come up quite cheap on ebay. I carry a bottle jack and a hi-lift in the 90 but rarely use the hi-lift and never for changing wheels or working underneath it. A hefty trolley jack is best but rather heavy to carry all the time.

Cheers guys Mo - Fingers crossed they won't be too expensive, I spend too much in the place already! Mav - 200tdi pipes don't look too expensive and would help keep everything as factory parts plus I can fit them straight away when I get back to UK instead of waiting for mine to be modified, were they a direct fit? Is the routing any different? Harry

I bought a set of Sealey/Seigen ones from the local tractor place. They are hammer-through, cheap enough to lose and take a ring spanner on the handle. 7 years of abuse and only one is starting to show signs of damage after being used as a chisel by a mate. The handles could be more comfortable but they take up less space in the toolbox draw. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLEAROUT-Sealey-Siegen-Screwdriver-Set-HAMMER-HEAD-12-X-SLOTTED-PHILLIPS-/360997904335?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item540d26dfcf

No experience of the QT versions but I looked at the TF ones alongside the some Britpart versions in a shop a few years ago. The Britpart versions were slightly heavier, the welding looked better and there was more metal around the bushes in comparison to the TF ones so I bought the Britpart versions and saved £20. Despite fewer holes and the associated BHP losses, they are available in yellow which will double your 0-60 times when used in conjunction with a K&N sticker and some fuzzy dice. To throw a curveball, Gwyn Lewis used to crank your standard radius arms by 3 or 6 degrees for about £60 but I lack the engineering knowledge to make any judgement on the strength/durability of those items.

Thanks Paul, I'll save my pennies and get the Ag suppliers to build some up then find a way to support them once installed Harry

Great stuff, thanks guys My local agricultural engineers build up hydraulic pipes so I'll pop round when I'm next back in the country. Is there any reason why they can't be made completely out of rubber to save the cost of them fabbing up the steel pipe sections?