Gazzar

More!

By any chance do you speak Dutch!?! Found this: Shows an anti roll bar mounting for a series. Want me to send you the PDF? It's big.

Donno, I find three leaf paras to be fine for me, but I've a pickup 109. Mind you, the last time when the roof was really loaded, the sway was more noticeable. I was slower around roundabouts that day! So, what I'm saying is wouldn't stiffer springs give you what you want? Haven't you been playing with different springs? Oh and I think they were on the back - the shorter front springs limit axle articulation.

I'd do the tensioner - it isn't expensive. The injectors I'd get checked over at 150,000 miles. Turbo - if the blades are pitted badly then bring it to a re-conditioner for an opinion. Of course, extreme conditions and poor previous servicing would shorten those intervals for me. If poor diesel (dye washed diesel/water/contamination) is suspected I'd get the injectors checked more often. Ditto Injection pump. G.

Oh, yes please! G.

So, the pipes that are used in Air Con systems, how easily are they obtained and modified? What I'm trying to learn is how easily a competent (mostly) DIY er can fit a system, get a regas kit and get it running, without involving a "professional". G.

Ah, Thanks for that.

Ooops, my mistake - I'm not to clever on the names of the bits. Evaporator - bit that cold comes out of. Condenser - bit in engine. Ok, Yes; Evaporator in the roof! How bulky are these things? It's a CSW roof and I could easily get something a couple of inches thick, but I'm leary of too much heavy in the roof, as it means brackets and then trim and all the rest of it. I presume condensate drain could be a smaller pipe back down to the windscreen washer bottle for the rear door? G.

Should be parts in the parts manual, then? Can't see anything on the optional parts catalogue, maybe it's a military catalogue?

I don't know, but I'd be happy to ditch the heater matrix, or even have it plumbed in as well as the smiths heater I was planning! For £150 it's worth a punt, when I get to that stage! G.

Something is niggling at the back of what remains of my mind; about ex-military ambulances being fitted with anti roll bars. Though I could be thinking about 110s or austin metros or some other thing. I'd have thought it be a fairly simple matter, two brackets on the chassis, two rose jointed links to the shock plates and an anti roll bar from something about the same weight? Disco perhaps? Holding the anti roll bar to the chassis would self-suggest bracket positions etc. G.

I know, I know, buy a discovery! But, talking about a 109 SW here, why couldn't I fit somehting like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-full-A-C-air-conditioning-system-complete-working-removed-/290721067136?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item43b0537080 into a tdi powered series? Obviously there'd be plumbing challenges, and fitting the radiator would be tricky, but as I'm going to be hacking the front panel anyway (its a rotten one) why not? I'd fit the condenser between the front seats and have ducting up the "B" pillar to the roof, allowing the cool air to fall down to the passengers. Or is it just mad talk? G.

Suggest you get it zinc sprayed or similar - you' don't want ot be doing it twice! Also, when reassembling use some DPC or other physical barrier to prevent the galvanic corrosion next time. Maybe a super thin skim of tiger seal followed by a layer of DPC on the skin and then use tiger seal to stick the frame together. G.

Sounds like he's on the ball, look after him so. G.

Don't use hammerite - it's too hard, doesn't flex with the steel, cracks and lets in moisture. It's trapped and the whole thing rusts out undetected. I agree with the zinc approach - Ive used ZG 90 cold spray on some welding on an old trailer - I'm quite surprised as to how good it is! If the area isn't cosmetically important, and isn't covered in trim then apply clear waxoil thinned with engine oil, or similar. Just don't use hammerite.

Not 100% on the LT77 aspects of this, but the tdi200 flywheel housing is bolted to the alu block stiffener above the steel sump, and without this then the rear seal can give trouble (as you've learned). When I did my di200 series conversion I milled out the flywheel housing to fit allen headed bolts, Richard Glencoyne style, but a better plan would have been to drill the bellhousing for the bolts and sandwich the flywheel housing between the stiffener and the bell housing, making it easier to remove the stiffener, as opposed to the way that I did it which means that I've to split the gearbox to drop the stiffener. I think it's the same for the LT77, to be honest. G.

I know what you are saying, but it does take away a freedom we've enjoyed. I have brought cars to main dealers to have work done and then had to re-do it myself, it's how I've learned! I also believe that as I own the car I've the right to fix it myself. It's mine, I built the engine, why the blazes can't I service it myself? G.

Irritating, isn't it, when the great idea get killed by legislation and cost. Imagine how much worse it will be if the full proposals under the EU thing are implemented! I presume you are trying to achieve greater articulation. We have an old saying where I grew up - If I wanted to go there, I wouldn't start from here. So, considering what a series is worth, compared to an buying old discovery, would you be able to achieve the articulation you need with a coil set-up? Otherwise you may investigate other spring packs, longer shackles, that sort of thing. Or spend the money and get it IVA'd G.

Oh, I don't know, sometimes these bureaucrats can lose track of things. I say that the rules, as they are in the UK, are sensible, adequate, and reasonable. There is no real reason to change them. Sure, there ARE muppets that do stupid things, but they are breaking the existing laws, and new ones won't change things. AS for the hands-free kit, it represents an un-approved modification to the wiring loom, and so could fall foul of the proposals. If it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.

Thanks Nick, I don't think the bar is too bad, it's just the end panel. Most of it it is invisible, so I may just use filler. I was just wondering if there was anything more "natural" as a solution.

This is EXACTLY what could be implemented. It's the sort of tosspottery that some petifogging bureaucrat can inact, and some other begrudging jobsworth would enforce. So, please, if you value your modifications, kick up a fuss, write, email phone your local politico - your journos - facebook all the people you know with modifications. Post on forums. The bigger stink, the better the chance of sinking this thing. G. PS - probably already been posted but I used this: http://www.writetothem.com/ It's dead easy. I have received a 3 out of 4 response rate - which is quite good.

yES, THAT'S RIGHT. sorry caps lock! Anyway - I've seen where the standard front tank is "adjusted" with a large hammer to fit the SW chassis. Not pretty, but one option. G.

Response from MP (who is now a junior minister) on House of Commons note paper! He's outlined concerns to Patrick McLoughlin, SecState Transport. Response from Honest John: "A lot of people have been making a lot of fuss about this, but it hasn't actually happened and is unlikely to. HJ" So, the message is being delivered to the PTB. Whether they listen and act is another thing. G.

Right, have emailed Honest John asking if I have to remove the tdi from my 109, and also the hands free kit. Have also asked if I get compensation! G.

Doubt it. Presuming it looks well fabricated it should be fine, for now. Of course, when the EU introduces the "no modification" rule then you will be in bother, but you'll be one of thousands made criminals overnight. G.