Gazzar

Like above I'd form some sheet around the handle, up and down from the crease, and weld around it, after stitching the break. I'd also drill a few holes in the new sheet and puddle weld them in to the older metal, spreading the stress even further. G.

Not familiar with the Painless loom, but isn't the fusebox supposed to be under the steering shroud? Otherwise I'd be putting it where I can get at it easily on a cold we windy night!

Not familiar with the material, but is there a risk that it will stick to the inside of the tyre? Otherwise, sounds like a most useful bush bodge! G.

The big problem that sometimes arises is getting the fuel filler rubber pipe onto the tank, if that goes well then it's a straightforward job.

Skauldy, I've imported re-chassied cars into the Republic. My 1984 kit car became a 1997 kit car. The VRO (muppets) won't know, it's the Revenue who set and enforce the rules. Have you tried phoning the Revenue at Tallaght, or Rosslare? Swap it, you'll be grand. That is, until there's a clamp down because people are registering 2004 Discovery 2 td5s as 1980 range rovers. Then you'll be in bother. Unless the chassis is completely wrecked, and just the corners are left, it can be repaired. Talk to Ghound on the Irish forum, send him some pics. He's a master welder - used to fabricate Fruehauf trailers - and can probably rebuild stuff that's beyond the realm of mortal man, he can also get the chassis hot-dipped. If you ask he'll do a photo record, just in case you do get stopped. All for a fair bet less than a new chassis. And he's not too far up the road from you. G.

Plastic on springs? DO tell! G.

They're everywhere this time of year. I fear a Spider invasion! G.

Right. Lets get some more information. What wheel base is the S3? Does it have a pressure warning differential apparatus(PDWA)? Because if it's a LWB with Twin Leading Shoes (TLS) and a PDWA then you will need to power bleed it, that is using pressure on the master cylinder reservoir to push the fluid past the various low points and valves between the reservoir and the bleed nipple. Other points - that Tee piece is a bodge, one of the benefits of having a Defender master is you get dual circuit brakes. That looks bad, and suggests that the rest of the system is also bodged! I presume the photo is from the side and the reservoir is actually fitted correctly. If you are only doing it to test if the system works, fine, but don't let it on the road like that. Why? Because the copper lines are not supported, are carrying excess weight and could crack through stress fracturing: each time the vehicle hits a bump the lines move a bit (just a tiny bit). The copper hardens up (gets worked) until it can't flex, so it sheers off. Instant loss of all brakes. I'm also wondering if the defender master cylinder has cross circuit dual circuit brakes - a system where the front piston drives the front right brake and the back left brake, so that in the event of a piston failure you retain some brake on each axle - I doubt it, but your comment about one side being weak caused me to think that. Also, the defender MC may be designed for disk brakes - the volume of fluid moved on disk brake systems is quite different from that on drum systems, this could be part of your problem. Personally I'd be for stripping down and checking the wheel cylinders, fixing leaking hubs and changing the rubber hoses before working on the MC - You'd want that right anyway. Then I'd check over the steel pipes for leaks, and finally I'd put the Series Master cylinder and servo back on. The Series master cylinder is quite capable of stopping a fully loaded 109 with a 3 tonne trailer behind it, locking up the brakes on the trailer. I know, done it more than I want to. Sorry if I'm down on you, it's just that brakes are one of the things you HAVE to get right - if you don't, and your LR goes over with 3 or 4 people on board, then we all have to pay for it through our insurance premiums. I'm just being selfish!

Could you fit hilux axles?

The series drive shafts are UJ type (except for the stage 1 V8), the rangie are CV. I don't think they can be interchanged. G.

Post pictures when you are doing this please - VERY interesting. G.

Isn't the track link for the Range Rover axle in the same place as the leaf spring? Or are you going coil, too?

Have you looked at the Teri Ann Wakeman site? She covers a lot of the changes and documents a few conversions. I think the P38a conversion is the simplest, safest and strongest conversion. But I accept that local supply is very important. I reckon you could adapt a series steering column to accept a range rover (or Toyota) column link without welding. Machine the lower end to take a bearing about an inch up, and mill the splines on the remaining parts to accept the link. Mounting a toyota PAS box on the outside of the chassis rail should be ok, then swapping the drop link until you get the drag link geometry right. Side issue, just checking, welding on components is totally forbidden, or is it that you have to get the welded components x-rayed and certified? Please post up progress, fascinating topic, as I've accepted that my vapour build 109 CSW has to be spouse friendly!

If you can't go down, go out - whack rebar into the ground at 45 degree angles, spayed out around, and then weld some on the post, when you cement the lot together it becomes one structure.

I suppose there's no way the 4x4 community could crowd source a development? No, daft idea, sorry - I'm a dreamer. G.

Well, if it isn't at the correct tune, then perhaps the injectors/ IP need an overhaul? Thereafter you could get the cylinder head ported, and the inlet/exhaust system gas flowed. Maybe get a cam shaft custom ground? You might stick a turbo on, add an intercooler, improve the cooling. But but by the time you have all that done you'd be knocking on the door of a Tdi in terms of cost, but with an engine that is more marginal in terms of mechanical reliability.

Don't forget the Heater! The heater isn't on the wiring diagram. G.

You are supposed to fit Britpart parts? News to me! Seriously, though, Britpart have worked hard to have a reputation as a supplier of the worst fitting and badly designed rubbish. I DO use their parts, but only when I know that they are good, in other words, those parts that slipped past quality control. Buy another brand, or weld up the one you have - that's the choice, really.

I had one of these years ago - mine was a pig to bleed. Is it a 109, because you are trying to suck diesel a long way if it is! I know, I Know, it should work. Make sure you have a decent (new/refurbished/not cheap) lift pump, that the tank is full and that EVERY join is diesel tight. G.

Well done for tackling this. I didn't understand your last comment - did you rebuild the compressor with the new valve?

Don't use hammerite. It's too inflexible, cracks and de-laminates, trapping water between the paint and the chassis. Next up you will be getting the welder out. You could do worse than brush on black waxoil, having slightly diluted it first. G.

The cooler came with hoses, but the fittings for the tdi filter were different. So I gently removed the tdi oil cooler fittings and fitted them to the cooler hoses. Jubilee clips and the job was done. The route was fairly direct as I was tight enough for length. Works so far but it would be on my check and inspect list each service. G.

I fitted a standalone - not sure what size it was exactly - but I think the standard disco cooler is fairly small, so anything should work, unless you live in a hot country in which case go large. G.

My lathe was powered by 2.2kw three phase motor. I gave the motor to my cousin (dairy farmer) and bought a 3kw single phase motor. It was from ebay, Chinese, and is still working a year later. There are two types of motor, a fast and a slow. The slow is what I wanted, to match the previous (not original) motor. It does the job at every speed except the last two, where the surge trips out the house. Mind you, sometimes switching on the 4 fluorescent tubes in the garages does too! It's a 12 speed gearbox so I just lose the 800 and 1100 ish RPM speeds. The plan is to upgrade the consumer unit to a "type C" profile circuit breaker thingy when I'm wiring up the workshop. G.

Interesting, I've a similar plan. Perhaps I should just stick them in the ltwt.