Gazzar

Damn, I've 10 splines in mine. Meh.

http://www.landrover-parts.net/proddetail.php?prod=S2-562940 Alt part no: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/gasket-muc7505-p-24580.html http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/8254/MUC7505-PEDAL-BOX-BULKHEAD-GASKET.html?search=muc7505&page=1 Any use?

Watch the legalities - if he's UK based he has to be careful that he doesn't end up with something that has to be registered on a "Q" plate. G.

I've just measured the hole in a spare unknown brand copper 2286 head gasket I've got, and the piston cut-outs are roughly 9.5 cm across. Does this help? G.

Stick a 3.5 tonne trailer behind them and compare!

That's good to hear. I've always thought that the newer oils should help, but was afraid of them eating the bronze bits in the gearboxes.

Lexi, You got me there! G.

Thanks, all, the spring balance is working fine - I presume nylon cord is specified as twine will drop chaff into the gearbox. All good. G.

Yes, it understand this - but would that change the direction of the force so that it drive the plug in square?

I'm sticking a transfer box back together at the moment, am I right in that the loading on the output shaft is caused by the speedo housing pressing on the outer race at the back of the shaft? So the shims are critical, too much tension leads to premature wear and too little leads to .....what? And new bearings + new thrust washer would suggest that more shims would be required? Also, what drives the speedo gear? Surface tension on the shaft? Or is it trapped between the inner race and the flange? The things that occur while you are awake in the night (damn dogs). Thanks, G.

I prefer the power bleeder - one man operation, cheap, works. G.

I'm trying the white plastic keyrings+0 rings - we'll see. G.

Ah, but Bill, they WEREN'T Landrover engineers - they were rover engineers. The truth is that Rover, and now JLR, never liked the series or defender models. Where's the replacement? All sorts of fancy life style stuff in concept, but no truck you could go to herd cattle in. Or head across the forest with a cherry picker to fix cables. Or attach a fire pump to. No sign of reliable tow horse engines, with lots of cylinders. Rover wanted to make jet cars, luxury cars, and all sorts of money pits. The series and defender got the cast-offs, the scrap aluminium, the cheap dutch steel, the apprentices, the transit parts. Rover liked the money, but it was never reinvested. Management stopped development of the DI turbo diesel in the 1960's. Santana had a 6 cyl diesel and PAS in the 1970's, but Rover weren't interested. LR America had a V8 developed, but Rover weren't interested. Iran had series CV axles in the 1980's, but Rover weren't interested. Indifference and ineptitude, G.

That I can't do - the whole underside of the tunnel is covered in 4mm of asphalt + foil backed camping mat as sound proofing. Which works. I may keep the old school way of topping up = the squeeze bottle and cursing. Though if I cure the leak from the selectors I'll no need to topup - just need to check the level! G.

Don't worry, I've the military box to copy! Thanks Nick, G.

Ah, Bill, Don't get me started on what they should have changed - the series 3 should have had:: 6 cyl turbo diesel 5 speed (decent) PAS Disks Locking rear diff GALV chassis, Zinc sprayed bulkhead Seating for people over 5'8". And that's just me warming up! G.

Are you sure Snagger? If you are, then my gearbox in the 109 can't breathe - explaining the constant leak from the selector shafts! The round cap on mine in the 109 is just a plate set in the alu, and this has a blank grommet, also the top plate has a blank grommet. I think may order some more bits, and fit the military cap. Looking at the various sections of the box on the bench, I think you are right - there is no air path way between the main box and the cavity with the square plate on it. And there IS a groove on the mating surface of the transfer box that would allow air to escape into the cavity. I've fitted the military cap and breather to the box I'm rebuilding, and I'll hot gun this breather in as well, so that should also help. The aim is a quiet leak free box, every little helps! G.

Could you make one up? A bit of bar (old gear lever?) and a few different washers welded together might do it, though I'm struggling to see how that kit allows you to drive the plug in straight, when hammering at an angle.

The plate in the 109 has the right sized hole - but a blank grommet in place. I think I'll hot air gun it into place. G.

I'm looking forward to the photos - it could become the definitive rebuild thread! G.

Right, I'm putting together a series 3 box - all going well, but slowly. I'm doing the top cover and gear levers now, and have hit a strange one. I ordered a new top cover - the bit on top of the casting that contains the selector shafts. This has a breather, so I ordered this as well. Actually, I ordered a genuine part and a britpart one - no difference that I can see - but anyway, The breather appears to be a loose fit onto the hole, and I was wondering was there some majic I should be doing to stop it falling out. I've looked at another box and it has a rubber blank plug in the hole, which could explain the persistent leaking from the selector shafts. Am I to melt this into place (first preference) or is there some other technique to fit it? I'd appreciate a hint in the right direction, thanks! G.

My 1981 has the full length gutter, and also has a detachable transmission cover, the outer tunnel surround can be removed, leaving just the vertical bulkhead. Made changing the engine easier! G.

Ain't that something! Small world. Anyway - I say the LR drive train was up to the 3.5 tonne tow weight. The right trailer helps, and having everything in good tune also helps. You'd want to shorten the service interval, too, but otherwise it should be fine. I've towed 4 tonnes (no more than that, honest) and, while it isn't fun, it is do-able with care. Mind you - the engine at the time was quite worn, a fresh engine would make the job much easier. Having decent brakes help, the 109 will lock up the trailer brakes on full (Oh my GOODNESS!) braking. G.

Well, we all started somewhere! It helps if you have a mate locally who can pass on the benefit of experience having broke the same part when they did it, but if you don't, then the forum here is quite good. Top tip: Buy/download/borrow the Haynes manual, or the ROM - Landrover repair operations manual, there should be copies floating in the internet, and read the chapters, then get the parts book and look at the exploded diagrams. Then look at your LR and compare and contrast. Then ask questions - if it's dumb question, and there ARE some, don't be afraid to say it's dumb question (we all have them). G.

Debris? Dried Mud? I'd have a quick poke around under there and see if there is a mechanical blockage of some sort.