Gazzar

Well, we all started somewhere! It helps if you have a mate locally who can pass on the benefit of experience having broke the same part when they did it, but if you don't, then the forum here is quite good. Top tip: Buy/download/borrow the Haynes manual, or the ROM - Landrover repair operations manual, there should be copies floating in the internet, and read the chapters, then get the parts book and look at the exploded diagrams. Then look at your LR and compare and contrast. Then ask questions - if it's dumb question, and there ARE some, don't be afraid to say it's dumb question (we all have them). G.

Debris? Dried Mud? I'd have a quick poke around under there and see if there is a mechanical blockage of some sort.

I suppose it's a good rule of thumb for a front wheel drive car, and a single axle trailer, but for 4wd/rwd vehicles with ladder chassis it doesn't hold true, nor indeed, for a semi-articulated trailer.

I can't comment on the plate, but my 109 is rated at 4 tonne, according to the official plate on the bulkhead - which is genuine as it has the reverse stamps on it. It's a post rationalisation 1981 petrol (or was before I di'd it).

Carl, A lot of questions, some with no easy answers! Off-hand the Daihatsu engines have a good reputation, probably better than the early series diesels, anyway. Assuming it's been set up and serviced properly then it shouldn't give bother. It should run slightly faster than a series diesel, purely as it should have more power, and may rev slightly higher. That is, assuming it is a naturally aspirated engine, not a turbo. A turbo diesel should have quite a bit more power. Change it if you want, but I'd get used to it first and see how good it is, before dropping more money on an engine. If you do change it and don't go original, then perhaps the 2.8 turbo Daihatsu may be worth considering - it may have the same mounting points and thus be an easier swap. Fitting a 5 speed is do-able, but is a fair degree of expense and work. the 4-speed box in the series is quite short, compared to a lot of 5 speeds - and it may mean changing propshafts, cutting crossmembers and the like, again, see if the series meets your need first. If it doesn't then it may be cheaper to sell the series and buy a defender/discovery/hi-lux. The thing is; series vehicles are now more desirable, and worth more, unmolested, and the others are cheaper and may suit you better, it makes little sense to spend money on changes that make a vehicle worth less that it is at present. You could always fit an overdrive if you want faster. New they are still available, from a company in Canada, if I recall correctly. Tell us more as to that you were planning on using the series for, it would help. G.

I don't know if this helps but I think the tdi engines have valve caps between the valve and the rocker, perhaps these may help? Though I suspect the tdi rockers have extra lubrication for the caps. Who supplied the cam? Perhaps they've solved the problem? G.

I've never worked on one, maybe you could read through the manual and get a feel for it? I suspect the Aussie crowd may sell you the individual parts, though once you start stripping a box you find you need loads of stuff, bearings/circlips/shims/gaskets and it soon adds up. G.

Try http://www.roverparts.com.au/inc/sdetail/4475 Not too far from you? Also confirms that the FRC5931 works on both syncro pairs. G.

Doesn't the standard series 3 parts manual cover the Stage1v8? Fairly sure it does. G. Reading the parts book it looks like you need FRC5931, though it's only described as the 3/4 Baulk ring on the websites. PM me if you don't have that chapter of the parts book and I'll email it to you - though I'm sure it's on the interweb somewhere.

Thanks Snagger..

Which way around does this seal go into the cover? I know that in general the spring in the seal is supposed to be in the oil, but if I'm supposed to fit the seal that way around how do I drift it into the housing without mucking up the sealing surface? Or the spring? G.

You're right - i thought they were referring to the starter solenoid as a coil. D'oh! One of us is awake! Two separate issues here, Role Mold; starter solenoid wiring, and ignition coil wiring Starter solenoid wiring: The starter solenoid on the petrol is separate from the starter motor and on my 109 1981 was on the battery tray support. It looks like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVER-SERIES-2-2A-PETROL-STARTER-SOLENOID-13H5952L-5694-/400398266948?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d3998b244 though usually not so clean. This should have two wires coming in to it - a thin one (from the ignition switch) and a thick one (from the battery) - and one leading out of it (to the starter) - a thick one. The diesel starter solenoid is on the starter itself, so move the thin wire to there, and also the thick one from the battery, onto the big bolt. As for the wire that goes to the ignition coil from the ignition, I think that this goes to the stop solenoid on the injection pump. It's been a while since i did mine so I've forgotten.

You have to abandon the petrol starter solenoid (coil) on the bulkhead, as the Diesel one supersedes it. So swap the cable from the battery to the coil over to the Diesel starter as well. G.

Well, now, Isn't that curious! Mine is roughly 8 cm, not at all near 9cm. I must measure the Ltwt chassis I have and see if that's the same.

Gotcha, I'll look later on, presume its vertical separation, rather than distance? Was the chassis ever repaired? G.

Well, I've just measured my 109 4 cyl SW Richards 4 section chassis - trickier to do than you'd think - and the measurement I get for Datum line (top of steering relay crossmember to top of fuel tank crossmember) to the bulkhead support bolt holes in chassis is 120mm allowing for warp in plank, and parallax error. Hope this helps. G.

Ah, so the moisture barrier is to protect the structure from internally generated moisture? And the breathable barrier prevents mould, and the like, in the insulation? It becomes clearer now. G.

Would breathable membrane between the insulation and the outer layer work?

Also, unless you have a decent amount of stuff between the glass and the screen, the flex in the body and screen can cause the glass to break on the high points on the screen mating surface, ie where the welds weren't smoothed back before the frame was galvanised. I used DumDum the second time, it was thick enough to hold the glass away from the frame to allow flex. Can't get DumDum anymore, so I'd be looking at Nicks neoprene seals as an alternative, with gutter sealant at the joins. G.

When I did the drums on my 109 (1981 - 11" drums at front) I used a power bleeder to get the air out - I used a "Gunson EZI Bleed", which did the job well. http://www.gunson.co.uk/tools.aspx?cat=674 I use the 109 to tow heavy trailers (up to 3500kg) and find the servo assisted drum brakes to be entirely adequate for the job, including one emergency brake situation where an idiot pulled out in front of me from a side road and then immediately stopped to turn down another side road.

I'd do the latter, straightforward milling and turning. A decent engineering shop could do it for you. Grem has done the hard work on what parts to use and where to site everything.

I think that the td5 clutch plate can be fitted the wrong way around, it's apparently an easy mistake to make. G.

Ok, dickie seats - fair point. Now I know. G.

Sorry, this came across as being argumentative, not my intention. I'm just curious as I understood that non structural areas were only checked for potential cutting hazards. And as the D has a ladder chassis the body work is only checked around seat belt mountings. It's why you can use ABS wings, and fibreglass modifications like landrangers and Eagle Kit cars - it's not structural, therefore not covered by the test. G.

Why does the MOT examine this? It's not near suspension mounts. It's not supporting a seatbelt, it's not leaving a dangerous or sharp edge. G.