Mutz

@ mmgemini. I intended to do the wiring mod when i relace the units. Hella's are few and far between and price is high, i do try to use local companies, but comes down to price at the end of the day ie 1 unit from local company same price as 2 off tinternet!! could you explain " proper headlights with proper dip" and "H4 has an envelope covering the filament not a bulb" @g90. Have a pair of 100watt each longrange spots, illegal to use on road, will blind you!!!! but can get a good view at night (they make it like daylight) Right so as it stands we have, 1 for crystals and 2 against. with crystals being no better beam pattern etc. than the cheaper replacements. Any more advice?

Right, after driving out last night in the dark down some "B" roads i now need to replace my sealed beam lights, combination of poor illumination, poor eyesight (age related LOL) and dismal weather conditions i couldnt hardly see at all as other cars came towards me and couldnt drive above 40mph. Question is which lights have you replaced yours with and are they any better than the others, Not going down the HID route. There are some replacement items on flea bay. Crystal freeform.£32 + delivery = about £42 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221074972347?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 and some basic replacements. £19.99 + delivery = about £29 http://www.ebay.co.u...d=390442005327 are the crystal really worth the extra?

When i rebuilt my 90 i couldnt find a good 300 tub and they are pricey, but managed to pick up a TD5 tub for £40. Thought about putting a rear fuel tank in, or extending the pipework to the existing tank. In the end i drilled out the spot welds from the original 300 tub filler and cut it where it should be in the TD5 tub, and then mig welded the td5 filler up.. its not great but it looks right. i have also seen people pop rivet the filler back in the 300 position and it looks ok-ish.

My 300 warms up fine and gets the cabin quite warm after about 4miles. Not as quick as more modern diesel vans/cars and not as hot but bareable; certainly not as bad as thought it might be.

Not sure on the TD5, but on my 300tdi i had the same problem after a rebuild. Turned out that when i kept putting the slave cylinder back on the push rod was missing the fork. I did this 3 times before it actually seated correctly; this might not be what yours is doing but worth a try.

Well mine has been done about 18mths. and still looks good and doesnt leak. Sorry i should have said you might need to smooth it while wet, i used a silicone tool for tiles, it finishs it off nicely.

I used Sikaflex, start with a google on that, there are several different types so have a read on which is most appropriate. I used the white to match the roof and didnt have to paint it; DON'T use silicone even as a temporary fix, you will regret it as it doesnt stick well to some surfaces and then you wont be able to remove the silica if you need to repaint at any time. The other option would be a frame sealant, but some of these stay soft and dont cure. And might not accept automotive paint. Hope this helps.

Thanks for your help guys, he is now looking in to it.

His MOT is out next week, and is now desperate to find a supplier ofthe section. And find the part number. Its the piece within the red box

Where can individual chassis parts be purchased on line for a 110 chassis? A mate has just found the rear cross member which supports the front of the fuel tank is gone!!!

WOW. For a while I thought mine was faulty by letting in water; thank you so much for letting me know mine is fine.

Another for the Panhard, Had problems with wobble about a month or so after a rebuild all new bushes etc. Tried everything pre load, bearings etc. etc. lots said panhard bushs but i thought they are new cant have worn out in 2 mths!!!! they hadnt; the bolts had come loose. Re tightened and feels like a different 90.

Well had MOT today, and the MOT guy cured the wobble!!!!! Much to my embarresment............ panhard rod bolts needed pinching up a fraction!!!!!!!! Took it up the road and no wobble at all. I could have kissed him...... gave him a tip instead.

More bad news im afraid; DVLA will not change it!! Its how the manufacturer listed it, and even tho the V5 is wrong it will not be changed, even with all the proof. I had an Mitsubishi Pajero SWB 2.5 TDi, the V5 stated it as .Shogun, SWB 3.5 V6 petrol. With photo proof and having been checked again by official inspectors and they would not change it. When i was after insurance quotes, they went by the registration number, which came up as 3.5 shogun, was told by them it happens all the time and didnt make any difference.

2 Gallons Per Mile, now that is thirsty!!!!!

Here here, really nice to have met you and SWMBO, could have chatted for ages seemed like we had known each other for yonks. Very nice Puma 90, hope you had a nice time in Norwich. Thanks again. Graham

Defender 300tdi 90 1995 Rebuilt under 1 year, all rubber bush's have been replaced under a year ago, and have done less than 2000 miles, New original shocks all round, the front axle was not rebuilt. I have had this wobble since the rebuild and followed most of the advice on this forum. I dont know if the wobble was there prior to rebuild as i had not driven the 90 before purchase (had for 5yrs) I have tried a comlete set of wheels and tyres off another vehicle, no change. Re tracked several times, appears to improve but not for long. adjusted the pre load on the swivels, again appeared to improve but not for long. checked and tightened wheel bearings, all ball joints and damper, again all seem to improve for a short time but only marginally. Fine below 40ishmph, then at between appx 35ish and 45ish really bad shaking of whole vehicle through the steering (if i flick the wheel this will sometimes stop it) at 50ish all seems acceptable above 55 does not feel very stable and this continues through to 70ish (not risked going faster than this) There is no apparent play in the steering uj's or the power pump. the whole steering seems to be a bit "skitsy" at anything above 35 really. Has been suggested by a friend to replace the swivel pins and bearings. Getting a tad peeved with it now, as i think i have tried all i can.

If you dont off road it, go for the alloys as they do look good. Any off roading stick with steels, eight spoke or modulars, white or silver doesnt matter with green or............................Black.

bm52 where abouts do you live? and how much you looking for? Might be interested.

If you look very carefully at the packing, it doesnt have a green oval on there...................So sorry guys doesnt look like it will work on your 4x4's. They are still going to be totally un economical....LOL..

Another for Richards, the turn round time is mainly because they build a chassis for each customer; you want something not the norm on your chasis they add it before galving. I think if you give them the Chassis number they put that on as well, only heard about this so not sure they actually do it; but might be worth asking about. And yes i would re chassis, as said before if its getting holes now, thats the bits you can see, it will be a lot worse on the inside. I found out the hard way, replaced rear cross member, then started to weld a few small holes................which got bigger and more of them. Waisted time and money should have gone for the chassis straight off.

I have the Mud console and that serves the purpose, rear speakers in the 90 are 6" round and i made 2 pods to fit at high level against the roof,above the door The fronts are proving a bit more awkward, i bought 2 6x9s, made 2 boards to go by the seats above the seat belts; no good there as all the sound is absorbed by the seats. Now being 6x9 they are a bit harder to put anywhere, hopefully sort out some time today.

After "T" cutting any clear plastic, use a small amount of baby oil and rub well in , it will stay clearer longer.

they settle at the bottom when the screen is wet, mine are the same!!

Any pics of the finished article? i might treat my tree sliders.