BogMonster

5) Yes similar idea and described in the handbook. It works fine on the D1 if you do it right and the door switches ain't broken

Ouch! I guess the catastrophic fall in price is probably down to the fact nobody who does their homework would want to buy/own one once the warranty has run out - I know I wouldn't and I see more of them than most people. The price guide I usually use http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/used-prices/...73&plate=80 suggests that figure isn't much below a typical one for part exchange either.

I remember a column (I think by Frank Elson) in a magazine many years ago about the joys of using a Land Rover in the snow, where he wrote something like "bang down the yellow knob, pull out and overtake slowly and carefully, because it doesn't make your brakes any better does it?" You get the same thing here in winter time, next to the garage there is a fairly tight S bend which traffic comes round at doing about 20-25mph in normal conditions, water runs down the road and freezes in a slight dip and you can guarantee EVERY frosty morning in winter there's be a bunch of pillocks come whizzing along the road and then express complete surprise when their steering and brakes suddenly don't work and they end up bouncing off the opposite kerb. I've lost count of how many accidents there have been and last winter one idiot went right across the road, through a chainlink fence and nearly wrote off a brand new 90 sitting in the car park

OK some more on this.... The splice under the heater matrix was a bit messy (it was being leaked on as suggested) - duly repaired. Definitely have 12 volts to the required pins in the ECU & a good ground. Continuity seems to be OK on the two wires between the diagnostic plug and the ECU pins but still no go - won't communicate with the Testbook. T4 diagnostic is carp and crashes every time halfway through the "diagnose comms failure" routine so that isn't much help Looking at what else does what, the glow plug relay doesn't operate when ignition is switched on, nor does the fuel pump relay, but both appear to be supplied from the ECU according to the diagrams. Triggering the fuel pump relay manually (taking the lid off the relay & pressing the contact shut) that works fine so that isn't the problem. So its got power and earth going in at the appointed time and place, but bugger all coming out... I'm leaning more and more towards a dead ecu as being the cause?

If its the same valve as a Hydragas suspension system (like a tyre valve) I made one up out of a metal valve extension off a tractor wheel, cut off the end and brazed it onto a suitable fitting to connect to what I was using (which in that case was a grease gun to charge the suspension). Bit of a bodge but it worked

Ah ok thats better... phew Don't buy a Discovery 3, if you think you have got problems now ....

OK 1) Yes a Def tbox would work and give you difflock too if you link it up 2) Not that I know of but they aren't £30k as far as I know thats a bit steep even by LR standards 3) Why are you changing the diffs? They are std 2 pin 24 spline Rover diffs the same as a Defender 90 has fitted.

Brownchurch used to sell the Defender Camel Trophy bullbars so I would start with them, if they don't supply it they may very well know who does

Yeah it would go "gdonk" and stop dead

Yes it is worth it - 235/70R16 are really too small for a 110 and apart from anything else look silly! Mud vs All is usually a matter of whether the need for grip when you go off road outweighs the need for manners when you go on road. I run MT's as my daily tyre on my 110.

Is that the rustle of an anorak I hear?

The 4 pin diff in a P38 4.6 is different - it is the same as the back of a new (post 2002) 110. I don't know of anything else that had the old type 4 pin diff apart from the V8 90s which apparently had it in the rear axle only. I am pretty sure the 4 pin diff is 24 spline only.

Freelanders are bluddy good in the snow on just about any tyres, the transmission works a treat.

Er In my experience using a tube that is too large (we fix punctures at work) means folds in the tube which turn into splits and then flat tyres Michelins are the best as said (silly money, but still the best) but no tubes are better. And cheaper However to answer the original question yes I am sure it will be fine as they are close to the same size. When you have a spare tube sometime and it is expendable, blow it up until it goes bang. If you don't get it to about 40" tall and 18" wide I would be quite surprised so half an inch is neither here nor there unless its a rusty nail and you sit on it

Thanks, will try the trick with the disc and autobox ECU but as far as the engine one goes - totally dead no response at all, when it prompts you to connect the diagnostic cables it then spits a comms error every time and you can't get further into it. Any other ideas on this? Could the engine ecu think it is "locked/alarmed" hence refusing to communicate with the T4?

Got a major problem with a P38 diesel auto at work wondered if anybody could help please? I don't know a damn thing about them (apart from I wouldn't touch one with a barge pole) as there are only a couple of them in the country and they are grey import second hand ones, they were never sold here new. It was driven in to the workshop for some work on something else and something has gone pop - apparently coincidentally - and now it doesn't go. I hate it when that happens Basically the vehicle is totally dead the engine will crank over on the key but no life at all - it isn't even trying to fire. There seems to be power and earth to the BMW engine ECU according to the meter and the connector pin layout in my RAVE diagrams, but the diagnostic won't talk to either the engine or the autobox ECU just gives comms errors. Neither the glowplug light nor the Check Engine light come on when you switch on the ignition. The lights on the gearbox console show gear selection as does the instrument pack, and the diagnostic will communicate with the BECM with no problems. Any ideas please? If the ECU is dead, is there any way to confirm this? - I hate to think what one would cost and can't afford to order one "just in case" as it is no earthly use to anything else round here and will be a few weeks getting here anyway. Ta

Except for the car owner, presumably

Despite lots of claims from people that you can get 20mpg out of them I used to average about 14mpg in mixed driving in mine, you might get it up to 17 on a long run but overall mine did about 14. They are lovely vehicles but not cheap to run.

2 similar posts merged

A lot of the old Warn 8274 winchbumpers that people have here (the ones that bolt over the top of a std LR front bumper) have a steel hawse fairlead so it may be worth trying suppliers of original Warn stuff - it probably used to be a "Warn part"?

Could be either. Shut the vehicle doors etc so no interior lights are on and everything else is shut down, then carefully connect a 10A multimeter in series with the + battery lead so that the power feed goes through the meter to measure current drain. What I do is loosen the terminal clamp, put one lead onto the centre of the battery post, the other one on the vehicle battery terminal and then carefully lift off the terminal so you don't break the connection. You should get 0.02-0.03 amps (20-30ma) if it is a lot more than that then there is a problem somewhere. My Discovery 2 V8 regularly sits in the garage for a couple of weeks with no use and though I have to top the battery up from time to time, that is partly because it is a seven year old battery and partly because when I do use it there are mostly only short runs around town.

I have a photo somewhere that would disagree with the first bit

Among "normal" tyres a good all terrain like the AT2 or BFG AT will be much better than MT's in general snow driving conditions. I really liked the AT2s on my Ranger last winter, it was tail happy in 2WD but in 4WD was completely planted. As always in snow you need to be aware of momentum versus available grip but of all the tyres I have tried they were one of the best. The BFG MTs on the 110 are far from the worst but nowhere near as good as the ATs and tend to break away quite suddenly. I always laugh when I see the UK's roads grinding to a halt and all these modern cars sliding all over the road with ABS, traction control etc. I spent three years oop norf in Durham and had a couple of snowy winters, I used to take the back roads to get into town in my ancient Metro on 99p road tyres because I couldn't stand the 2hr 5mph procession on the main roads, never had a problem once though it would belly out in any deeper snowdrifts which meant you had to take a bit of a run up in places and of course steep climbs with front wheel drive were a no-no. Anything up to about 4-5in of snow never caused too much bother and I never got stuck once.

No experience of them but probably similar strengths and weaknesses. Jim your electric lawnmower should be fine with a K&N and will last for years

http://www.4x4winches.com/