BogMonster

Filter or sensor in bottom of filter could be loose if it is in the RH rear wheelarch area, or maybe the O ring seal on the filter is damaged or missing.

I would think the JCB will run on a hydraulic oil something like Hyspin AWS32 so absolutely no good for vehicle transmissions if so!

The crossply version of the SAG is now out of production - even the UK main agents didn't have any last time we asked but there may be the odd ones kicking around - I guess you'll just have to phone a lot of tyre dealers and try and track down a set if you really want them

No it isn't - pre 96 and 96 on use a different system

Driving very far at all with the handbrake on will produce a burning smell! I would pull the handbrake drum off for a look but apart from the shoes, the most likely bit that you might damage would be the oil seal in the back of the transfer box, if that isn't leaking then I doubt anything else will be bothered.

By opening the passenger door you are triggering the alarm/immobiliser that is why it won't start - if it has been locked on the drivers door and then unlocked on the drivers door then it will be fine as you can do this on the early ones. The remote or the receiver are not working properly - you could try reprogramming this or do you have a spare one?

So are you if you keep calling me Boggy sunshine

A common sense and completely unassailable suggestion - how boring! This is a forum FFS! Remember how many forum members it takes to change a light bulb: 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 1 to move it to the Lighting section 2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section 7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 5 to flame the spell checkers 3 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp" 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add "Me too" 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?" 13 to say "do a search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs" 1 to hijack the thread and ask how to change the horn 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again.

It certainly wasn't an engineer or anybody who had ever owned one used off road

:rofl: :rofl:

CV joint on the way out would be my guess, the prop UJs are also worth a look but they would make a noise all the time

The viscous coupling on a Freelander locks up quick enough to make a hell of a mess of a gravel driveway when turning on full lock, so I would imagine a RR would be much the same.

I didn't think the ACE relied on ride height sensing but I could be wrong - I am not an expert on the ACE system. I thought it worked off G sensors though?

Sounds like ignition timing producing a misfire. I had a similar thing on my 1996 V8 D1 when somebody set the timing to X degrees after top dead centre instead of X degrees before, took me ruddy months to find the problem

If you click "Add reply" rather than the fast reply, then you can attach them to the reply, if you click the Browse button and select what you want then click Upload and they will upload to the forum. It is preferred if you try and keep them to 800x600 size so they don't take up too much space though, there is a Windows XP Image Resizer freely available to do this job, or any paint program like Paint Shop Pro can do it too

Interesting conversion, I have wondered in the past about whether this was easy to do

Yes the 100 amp alternator from a 300Tdi Discovery with aircon will fit straight on and give you 50% more electricity to keep the smoke running through the wires

If there is a bit of oil in the system they will usually mumble and grumble about it but don't drive it too far!

Rev counter - the alternator is probably not providing the signal as it comes from there Temp gauge - check the wire has not come off the sender! this is by far the most common cause, front RH side of engine single wire connector onto a nipple thing on the sender

this was the topic: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26462 now split http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8281

Or just don't bother. If you have stuff to post that is of interest, why not post it here? Otherwise somebody might think the posts are just spam...

see here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12788

Check the vacuum pump and the fuel lift pump as both are prone to tapping/clattering noises and of course both vary with revs. Also I assume you checked the rotator caps were all still in place and intact when you did the valve clearances?

Yes it should (downpipes should be interchangeable) but beware that some aftermarket exhausts are different design so on some of those you can only change the whole system unless you find the right bit from the right maker! Shouldn't be a problem if you are changing the whole thing though. There should be a blob of yellow paint on the timing case if it has been modded but the only way to tell 100% is to take the front cover off and have a look.

Range Rovers had a coolant header tank sensor on the Classic a few years back, I would start there