BogMonster

As always, ask and the Tech Archive shall provide The good news is that the range ends at WA748935, so your vehicle does not need a kit, but if you want to change the pulleys then the cheapest way to get all the pulleys and the belt is to buy the little kit (4096), which is what will already be fitted to your vehicle.

Plug it into a diagnostic computer and read the fault codes, anything else is just guessing. Most likely a sensor fault as above but could be more serious (ABS modulator block etc). The fact that they went away before just means it was an intermittent fault - if you switch the ignition off and back on, for some of the minor faults it does a self-test and if the fault is no longer there, the lights stay off. The fact that they have not stayed off this time means that either 1) the fault is still there or 2) it is a serious fault and not one which will self-clear after a successful drive cycle. In either case you'll need a computer to clear the fault anyway so you may as well make life easier and start with a visit to a Testbook

D2 wipers are also useless in heavy rain because the aerofoil thing on them picks up the water and deposits it on the wrong side of the wiper!

...and if it isn't that then check for chafed air lines.

Depends whether you believe in preventative maintenance - it might pay off in the long run, but it isn't cheap. There is not really a lot in it in terms of work, between taking out the engine or gearbox. In a Defender, you can also stick an engine crane in through the door, take the trans tunnel out and sling the gearbox that way. If the engine was a TDV6 in a Discovery 3, you wouldn't even think of taking it out!

Check the flywheel but by no means change it automatically. Depends on what facilities you have available - the "proper" way is to take the gearbox out but that includes access to a ramp and transmission jack

Exactly - and the P38 diff isn't exactly reknowned for long life either. Before anybody says "it must be squaddie proof because the Wolfs use it" - check how many they break Nice bit of work though

Was that really what you meant?

That's interesting - I didn't know that. You learn something new every day

Reduces brake pressure to the rear brakes to prevent premature lock-up of the rear wheels. The D1 (or some of the D1s) has one, because the one on my old 1996MY went wrong and you couldn't lock the rear wheels even on loose gravel!

Ralph Some of the US market vehicles do have funny VIN's especially in the model year range, though I don't have details to hand. But that type of vehicle was never built for the NAS market AFAIK I would do extra homework on the background before parting with cash "just in case"!

I have a Karcher one which came from one of the big DIY stores (forget which one) for about £100, which I am pleased with - but I also have an old Draper one which was cheaper and to be honest is just as good and has lasted for years despite being dropped so many times it has a lot of plastic missing!

I would like to blat one with something like a 66mm LAW, not that you would stand much chance of hitting something the size of a GATSO with one of those from a safe distance! I have never been caught by one but don't like them all the same

Early Rostyles apparently had massive problems with wheel failure, on the early Range Rovers. I believe the design was changed, though I can't remember the details. I've got Discovery alloys on my 110 and based on the fact it is normally running at about the same weight as a Discovery (a bit over 2 tons) I don't anticipate any problems either.

What he said ^^^ and if you get one remember it is a reverse thread or you'll spend a long time trying to screw it on

What did you want help with - offering a forum discount?

That's a good idea. I use 10mm Dyneema-Bowrope and have had no problems. It was what Bowyer recommended for a Milemarker (I was going to get 9mm)

It may just have been a completely ill-informed comment that falls into the "journalistic nonsense" category. It wouldn't be the first one I have seen in LRO! The Discovery steel rims are very thick and I would think stronger than standard Defender steel wheels, though probably not as strong as the Wolfs.

May be a silly question, but does it have an airbag fitted? Many Discovery 1's did not, as it was an option. The non-airbag steering wheel has a horn button in the middle of the wheel with a green LR badge, the airbag one is a much bulkier centre to the wheel which does not have a separate horn button, you push on the whole 'bag to peep at people. Maybe the system is not working and the bulb was removed by a previous owner.

Depending on the mileage I would generally recommend replacing the entire clutch assy as a matter of course, then you can forget about it for a while!

You certainly can't use a two wheel RR with any vehicle with a viscous centre coupling/diff i.e. any Freelander or any late RRC with the BW transfer box. Not sure about later Range Rovers.

The 300Tdis have all stopped now, they were sold here until being discontinued about 18 months ago. There are no paper manuals for any countries and no plans to make any. And yes it is a PITA in places where there are customers who are in the back end of beyond with stinky dial-up internet connections - like here.

Ouch...

No there isn't, and the GTR format is not like RAVE where you could effectively hit "print" and 1300 pages later end up with a workshop manual, because it is all in sections so would probably take you weeks. David is, as ever, grumpily accurate in his response

You are quite correct Sir. I defer to your superior expressionabilitynessness.