BogMonster

Yep that's what I said

I have a tube and pin military ground anchor which is much the same idea. I can pull that and the Kittygripper out with the Milemarker even when they are chained together, if things have really "failed to proceed" though before the 8274 boys get all wound up I would not describe the resulting portion of extracted bog as flying through the air in any way The tube and pin anchor is the best and strongest though, it holds better than a plough anchor in soft peaty ground and in hard ground it is nigh on immovable (either with the winch, or when you come to pull the pins out...). Hard work and weighs a ton but I rarely leave home without it even if I do use the Kitty for most easier pulls

For you tommy ze var is over

Don't you just love electric winch ratings "It wont get too hot as long as you don't use it for too long"

Ali, Put some of your "Read-sized photos" on it that should do the trick

Thermostats are fairly unreliable - for the cost of it, change it anyway as if the one fitted is still original it will not be working 100%!

I doubt you will get it back on unless you don't mind it looking horrible. The strips on the top and sides of the bonded windscreens have to be attached (clipped on) to the glass before the glass is glued in, you can't fit them properly once the glass is glued into the vehicle because at work we have had to take them off to rectify leaking screens and the only thing you can do (apart from change the screen £££££££ you always break them removing them) is to cut off the bit that clips inside the glass and bodge it back on with black silicone or something, if you try and hammer it back in you will either break the glass or bugger up the strip. The good news is that it isn't necessary to make the vehicle watertight so that bit isn't important

Noisy fuel pumps which suddenly aren't noisy any more are usually dead ones. However it doesn't usually trigger a check engine light if my memory is correct. Check engine lights/no throttle have been known to be dodgy ECU's. The best thing to do is plumb in a pressure gauge to the RH rear corner of the engine, where the fuel temperature sensor is located (take out the temp sensor and screw in an appropriate adaptor). This should read 58psi with the ignition on, if it doesn't then the pump is probably knackered. If the pump is producing the right pressure, then I'd try a new ECU next, but you need a computer to program the security code and injector grades which could be a problem in the middle of Africa...

Does the TDV8 go wrong 8/6 as many times as a TDV6?

The crimping on the high pressure hose is the normal failure point but as advised, clean it off and check first.

Moved due to being in the wrong forum

Ah ok - genuine ones are one part and have to be pressed in with a vice or a press.

if they are in 2 bits its time you changed them

Is it a normal 300Tdi or one of the electronically managed EDC versions?

It's the oil rotor in the engine spinning down, nothing to worry about. Not sure about the electrical pulsing though

You need a vice to do it and something to put against the old bush to push it through. A bit of fairy liquid or something to lubricate matters will make life easier, don't use oil or grease though. Beware though, in a lot of cases the hole is worn so if you put a new bush in, it won't be a tight fit and you will gain nothing.

It's very much related to rolling resistance - a five tonne truck which is well bogged down will be much harder to move than a fifty tonne truck on flat smooth tarmac. Given the appropriate conditions you could probably move several hundred tonnes as long as you were patient with overcoming the inertia of getting it rolling and didn't cook the clutch (an auto is best) - an original promotional item I once saw for the early Tdi Discoverys showed one pulling a 200 ton train

Diesel is currently 42p a litre here, petrol I think is 74p at the moment though I daresay fuel will go up at the end of the month, with the increase in oil prices. No tax on any fuel here. Not so many years ago it was 25p/litre for diesel and 35p/litre for petrol.

It'll be that pipe, don't worry about other possibilities until you have checked that, because 99% you won't have to worry about other possibilities

It should fit, I think the difference will be that the roof is a bit lower in the vehicle with a/c fitted, so the guard will be a few inches lower at the top to accommodate this. Mounting points could be different but the only way to find out is to look at them.

Yeah I have seen Cruisers here with 350kg stickers on the back end, didn't realise they also used 50mm balls over there though, I thought maybe it was just a European thing and Aussies used something different (like US trucks do). Ta.

Depends on the shape of the towing ball - if it is any sort of a swan-neck type then it will have a twisting force on the assembly. I just ask because I am sure I have read reports of the balls shearing off when used for towing with a shackle around them, which suggests they aren't all that strong...

Ah ok - "serpentine" belts are the flat poly-vee type as fitted to 300Tdis. All clear now. It may be ok for an emergency roadside repair but I am not sure about the long term effect on the health of the bearings as Poostainedrhinothingy commented

Is there a maximum permitted noseweight for 50mm towballs? I figure that while something like a NATO hook is pretty robust, the "neck" of a 50mm towball, being fairly skinny, must have a safe working limit and I wondered what it was - can't find anything on Google though. The maximum permitted noseweight quoted for a Defender is 150kg but I assume that is more to do with on road stability at speed, than what the chassis or the towing fittings can actually cope with. Anybody know the answer please? I'm not unduly concerned about stability at speed (because it will only be travelling slowly) but I'd hate the ball to snap off...

you may find this of interest, some info right at the end of the last page on threads http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1078