BogMonster

And I suspect a Td5 pump will not last long pumping petrol and/or may result in a colossal kaboom

the bias springs need resetting or more likely the plate that locates them is broken, only costs a couple fo quid easy fix once you get to the top of the gearbox which is the worst bit as you have to take all the tunnel trim off which takes a while, you'll need pop rivets to put it back in again, 13 I think... not 100% sure though

Interesting reading this.... FWIW I have dealt with Paul Myers on several occasions and found his and Britpart's responsiveness to be considerably better than most companies you could care to name in the Land Rover business. With a lot of companies you have got stuff all chance of getting a sensible response from one of the monkeys in their call centre never mind the boss. As for the matter of cheap "own brand" parts - as somebody said you get what you pay for and I believe Britpart like Bearmach will supply OEM brand name stuff if that is what people want and the prices on that are still pretty damn good in my experience. I've also had 2 Safari snorkels on 2 different vehicles and had no problems with either of them.

Welcome Should be the same I think...

If it has EDC it must have the Testbook port I think... If the VIN number is MAxxxxxx then it is a 95, if it is TAxxxxxx then it is a 96

Yeah that would do it...

if you do a search the issue has been discussed on here dozens of times before, opinions vary on re-sealing it but if you have never tried it before it probably isn't the easiest job to get right

Looks like a giant pair of bikini bottoms to me... Different

what he said ^^^ also check the wheel studs haven't sheared off in the hub and started to pull through, I have seen this happen, nuts seem tight but only because they have bottomed out on the end of the threads and there ain't a hell of a lot holding the wheel on except suction... the amount of stud sticking out through the nuts is a giveaway

Bah. If they had researched me I would have told them I wanted a gauge that showed how much effn fuel there was in the tank Think you are right though - every vehicle I have had does the same. A 2.5 petrol engined 90 has a range of about 50 miles if you are lucky, on the bottom half of the tank...

I should think so too John, I am pretty sure it is Portofino Red as I said above

erm what is the difference genuine question - I don't know and I wondered how it caused corrosion? rainwater is good

Boggers on the front, tractors on the back, hardly going to handle well on the road whatever Tractor tyres I should think - after all there is a reason why tractors use them...

Ralph the dates on that are wrong. Rutland Red replaced Portofino Red from about 97 onwards, can't remember the exact date but I am pretty certain they never overlapped - both were the "solid red colour in the range" and they only ever had one of each solid red, green, blue, white. I think it was 97 some time that they changed but Rutland Red looks brighter than John's avatar pic anyway.

Best way of cleaning is a bucket of warm soapy water and one of the big synthetic kitchen scourers, the type that are a sponge on one side and a sort of synthetic abrasive stuff on the other. Takes about 30 sec per wheel to do. Works a treat for brake dust on alloys too, so don't be a wimp and do it all properly

Time to create a new user ID and cause mayhem in secret then

Could do with a bigger pic old chap ... but I would say it is Portofino Red code LRC390 if it is a standard colour from 1996 build vehicles as that was the solid red colour then. Post up a bigger pic preferably 2 or 3 and let's have a look... BTW Portofino is also called Arrow Red and I think Corallin Red too on older vehicles but on your age it is called Portofino. They are all the same colour though...

Could be but PAS belts normally squeal when they are loose and slipping. Get somebody to wind it lock to lock while you watch the PAS pump pulley - if it stops then that is the problem!

:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:

It is definitely something that you get the knack of, having watched people do it over the years with varying success. Tips I would suggest from observation include - - change it when the leak starts don't leave it for ages as otherwise grit/dust trapped in the oil works its way into the seal and damages the seal track - carefully sand down any roughness on the sector shaft with very fine sandpaper before fitting as otherwise you nick the lip of the seal and will probably end up with a worse leak afterwards. - wrap the projecting part of the sector shaft with something like insulating tape to give a smooth surface to slide the seal down over, particularly if the shaft is a bit rusty - clean, clean and clean some more (this is why doing it working the wrong way up with the box still in the vehicle isn't very successful...) My last Discovery has oil p*sn out of the bottom seal when it was brand new, was resealed during the PDI and sold it with 61k miles on and no PAS leaks... same set of seals. If you take the old seal out and the seal track on the shaft is badly grooved or pitted then it is probably a waste of time even trying to re-seal it.

I usually change when the vehicle is still moving very slowly (<1mph) then it goes in straight away.

oops beaten to it and wrong on one bit too. I'll shut up

I read that the 5 was part of an intended range of 4, 5 and 6 cyl engines based on the same main dimensions, intended for Freelander, Discovery and RR respectively. The four and six engines were sunk when BMW bought the company and used the Td4 from the 3 series and the TD6 from whatever BMW that came out of in the RR. Not sure if it was true but it made sense.

Not sure about Defenders but you can find the Discovery ETC is irritatingly sensitive - if you take off and a wheel goes over a small pebble or something just enough to cause slight slippage then the ETC can kick in just for a second, or rather the pump fires up because it thinks there is about to be wheelspin (I think - just my view). Mine does it sometimes - and all the time on gravel roads especially taking off smartly with a V8 auto.

The R380's design limit is 380nm (hence the name) which is about 280lbft. TDV6 is 325 (?) lb ft not sure about the chipped Td5s I guess some are up towards this figure. I'm guessing that since the R380 is not the strongest gearbox in the world to start with, exceeding its design limit whether its with a Td5 chipped and intercooled, or whatever else, probably doesn't make for 200,000 miles of reliable motoring I'd be surprised if you couldn't fit a TDV6 with a bit of faffing around the edges. The engine bay has after all had both a straight six (BMW 2.8) and a V8 in it in the past.