BogMonster

LR say you can't fix the Jatco box and last time I looked there were only a handful of bits available - seals etc - for on the outside of the box and no internal parts. I think Ashcrofts now offer a recon one though, and that's probably the best option. From what I read - admittedly some time ago now - it looked fearsomely complicated and truly a specialist job to repair. I don't have RAVE installed on the home PC at the moment and the laptop is at SWMBO's house but I am pretty sure the engine and gearbox is supposed to come out as one lump on a KV6 which I am sure is a really fun job and I envy you lots

Interesting because I just checked the BFG tyre site and it has a "BFG MT KM2" on it http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/mu...a-km2/3930.html which looks completely different to the above but would seem to be the successor to the MT KM not sure I like it really, think I prefer the old pattern, though the one Will has a pic of above looks OK but I wonder what it is?

careful application of a bench grinder to each side of a standard grease gun nozzle is the best thing to do - you have to be careful not to go through it as it is quite thin but you don't need to take much off to get the nozzle to fit in more easily

Ta - a photo will do nicely as evidence of their actual existence

Quick question - has anybody on here got one of these or know of one they can look at? In other words one of the 5 seat 110 station wagons with the plain rear sides, i.e. no slidey leaky side windows. I am trying to order one at work and Land Rover claim that the 110SW Commercial model does not exist there is something called a "Utility Pack" which I thought was the option for getting the plain rear sides but turns out to be some stupid electrified windows or something. It doesn't appear as a model on the LR website though but I am quite sure I didn't imagine their existence! If you have one please could you post or PM me? Ideally looking for a VIN number I can send with a message along the lines of "look this up on your ruddy computer and build me one the same!!!" Ta

No difference as far as I know, if you are talking about the old standard steel wheels. I think I am correct in saying that the Rostyle steel wheel (as fitted to many older County 90s and some very old Range Rovers built before round alloy was invented) is not rated for a 110 and nor are some of the much later genuine alloys, but the el boggo 5.5x16 steels are the same on all models as far as I know. The difference is probably what the wheels were taken off and the sellers are none the wiser

You can use ATF but the recommended oil these days is MTF94 which can be bought from a dealer. I have tried various sorts of oil and can't honestly say I have noted much difference between them and where there is, it is swings and roundabouts e.g. with the Difflock oil I found the change improved when cold but was crunchier when very hot if you changed gear in a hurry.

Tut. That is what happens when you rely on cheap East European air Ladair perhaps?

I have a Freestyle at work looking for a 2nd hand BFG MT as an extra spare, so I will weigh it later if I get a chance... they are definitely lighter than steels though, I changed the other one for a Disco steel which I was using as the spare, last week, and the difference in weight is noticeable when you lift them.

Bit sad - only recently ordered some stuff from Difflock and no indication that there was an imminent demise. I hope the stuff I ordered was shipped!

only in the Northern Hemisphere, down here it goes the other way and if you put right handed air in the tyres they will implode

What like this? I should hold on to it m8, in another 20 or 30 years that stuff will be like gold dust

Is it April 1st? Sounds like a lot of hot air to me Going into a garage and saying "I think the air in my tyres is broken could I have some new air please" would cause gales of laughter in most workshops I should think

Argh The moral of the story is: Just put 30psi in the darned thing and it won't be flat

Don't be a wimp, make one up out of some oil rig casing or something it'll only take a couple of hours

Ah ok - humble apologies, coat on and climb back into box I thought it was a little test to see how long it would take the observant to work out that drum brakes probably don't have disc guards I do have an excuse though, I can't quite see your Series from here

I would use only the best Extreme Orange chalk But in fact I just look at the tyres after a few thousand miles and make sure they don't wear too funny and leave it at that So far my guessing has been pretty good

I may be wrong but aren't the "proper" bolts also pretty hard ones i.e. 10.9s or something?

that took a moment to sink in Jon

I don't think the roads in Chichester will give you any problems so bin them for the reasons already stated. In other parts of the world it is a different story and they make a huge difference to brake pad wear driving at speed on unsurfaced roads especially if they are wet clay or something abrasive. I dumped the ones on the back of my old red 300Tdi 90 when they cracked up, and after I wore a new set of rear pads out in 3000 miles I fitted some new ones fairly shortly afterwards...!

Never heard that theory and I don't know if it is correct anyway. I would say that the critical bit is the pressure required to support a given load, more pressure produces a smaller contact patch with a given load, or increasing the load squashes the tyre out so you need to increase the pressure to restore its shape. I don't know how manufacturers arrive at published pressures though. I used to use about 20psi in 33x12.50R15s on my Defender 90, which "looked" about right and gave good flotation in soft ground. I shall probably use about 22 front 25 rear in the 110 due to the extra weight, and see how that looks. Edited to add the above is with road speeds rarely exceeding 50mph and may well be unsafe if you plan on bombing up the outside lane of a motorway all day!

Yes I have just checked and it is called "Denim twill vinyl"

from the pic it looks like the current standard grey vinyl which I think they call "twill vinyl" but not 100% sure - its been the same since somewhere around the start of the Td5s, possibly even longer than that, so shouldn't be hard to get

All done and good for another couple of years before the mountings have nothing left on the box to bolt to Easiest way to do it is to start like this: much easier to work on it when upside down This was the best one of those left, under the middle of the trailer, odd looking fitting and completely different to those shown in the Sankey manual but I guess they are original, seven of them were missing completely (rusted and fallen off on the rough track down to the house, I guess): which I tapped lightly with a hammer and it fell off, if you grind out the bolt there is a hole which is the right size for M8 hook bolts so then I replaced with these: nine of these later (couldn't be bothered with the other one under the middle as it was inaccessible with the grinder and anyway the rear of the trailer is held down with the tailboard conversion) a few seconds with the winch to right it: I wondered what that funny bracket on the axle was for, nothing to do with the brakes obviously

It's very convenient to be able to take the bonnet off, lets a lot more daylight in there too A common trick is to tilt it right back and take a bit of rope or strong twine from the bonnet latch back over the roof to the rear door spare wheel carrier to hold it up out of the way. A bit of tension on the string stops it from going flyabout but don't pull too hard.