BogMonster

Does your father make a habit of creating garden sculptures composed of railway sleepers?

FFS that is horrible. In styling terms it's rather like taking a massive wart on your face and then painting it with luminous dayglo orange paint to make it really really stand out

Humble apologies. I thought CB was still powered by shoveling coal in the back of the set we don't have it here so it was "historical knowledge" - obviously a bit too historical

Partly to pull up and partly to put some weight transfer onto the rear wheels which equals more grip The key is not to overdo it though. Oh and if it is a long post mind the back window...

Surely that should be X-hibition trailer My 110 does about 21mpg with no trailers on, probably due to the relatively short runs (not measured it on a long run) but when the 200Tdi Discovery used to do 28mpg I do wonder what has happened...

If you have no local suppliers then I would talk to Bearmach in the UK, we deal with them almost weekly to send stuff all the way down here and the quality of their export service is as good as you can get IMHO

Might work, though I would give it a few good smacks with a sledgehammer first to crack the cement. I'd also check whether anything important or expensive was in the way if the wall keeled over and fell down as a complete slab as you might feel like a pillock if you were collecting the blocks from the inside of where your greenhouse used to be etc I pulled out concreted in fence posts with a chain and my old red 90 but I wouldn't try it with one with a Td5 chassis. Basically 1st low range drive off with the post short coupled to the tow hitch such that the chain went down at about 45 deg, come off the clutch just before the rear suspension bottomed out and let the vehicle roll back, do it again half a dozen times and the post was out, much easier than digging but needs a strong tow point obviously

Would this be an Orange version? I don't want one (my bonnet is the correct shape) but I know somebody that does...

Think of broadcast radio i.e. Radio 1 etc VHF is FM, CB is medium wave (or AM) in very basic terms... hence the difference in quality. Ultra High Frequency is higher than Very High Frequency. Rumours that a new spectrum is to be announced called FFFFHF have not been substantiated

I think more information is required as I don't know what bit you are talking about, where is it and what does it do?

Welcome V8 flex plates don't usually go AFAIK, its a diesel disease. If it does go though it is bl&&dy expensive. Best bet is to talk to Ashcroft Transmissions about a replacement and theirs are cheaper than LR's too. It depends on the noise but if it is only a little rattle then check the cat heatshields haven't got little rocks in them, mine rattles at idle sometimes and I eventually found that it was little rocks (5-10mm sort of size) rattling in the heatshields nice cheap repair though A bit of clank when going from D to R or vice versa is common when hot, only experience can say whether it is normal or not but I have heard some quite alarming noises from vehicles which actually had nothing wrong with them.

AFAIK the flywheel is a one piece thing I don't think it comes to bits (well it does in early Td5's but that is not a reversible process ) so as far as I know it is just a straightforward swap like any other. I would make an assessment when you have the clutch out to look at it, rather than assume it does or doesn't need changing without having seen it.

I use a gutter mount on my 2m VHF aerial and always have on several vehicles with no problems, but the gutters are not massively strong and I guess a CB aerial will be bigger (the 5/8 wave 2m aerial is about 1.2m long)

Up in the headlining, just above and behind the rear view mirror. Out of the way, the audio is excellent, and it is easy to reach for operating - plus if you hang the mike in the right place you can usually use it without taking it off the hook for a quick "yes" or "no". Mine is a 2m VHF rig rather than CB but as long as the set is not too big it'll be fine there

Yeah flog the Td5 and buy a proper factory V8 would be my advice

I think you will find that the 7 seat version only has type approval if fitted with air suspension because they never built a 7 seat coil spring version, whether that affects you or even matters where you are I don't know, but it might be worth asking insurers etc...

possibly coincidence! when I was having trouble with my old Discovery (which eventually turned out to be the alarm spider, as per the repair thread in the Tech Archive) I was ABSOLUTELY convinced that things I was doing around the ignition coil were having an effect, but intermittent faults play hell with your mind

Ta, don't worry about finding them I can nick some from somewhere I am sure just needed to know they were the right size and threaded, should be just what is needed On a steel wheel on the late type door you can just put ordinary wheel nuts on, then the wheel, then another 3 ordinary nuts, but I have just got an alloy for a spare (previously had a Disco steel on there) and needed to find a way to space the alloy away from the carrier. Now I need to find some way to make it easy to hold the wheel in the right alignment to put the nuts in the holes, its a bugger of a job at the moment but I have just spotted some gash (damaged) alloy wheel nuts downstairs and I think I have an idea

Got a slight problem with fitting slightly oversized tyres to a new type (2002 onwards) Defender rear door carrier. Tyres are on alloys so I need to find something which is threaded and big enough to not disappear into the stud holes in the alloys, which are a lot bigger than the M16 studs. I seem to remember - and I have found on Microcat - that the old type (pre 02) spare wheel carrier has a fairly large washer on the carrier that the wheel sits against, which I think is threaded to the M16xwhatever thread of wheel studs. I don't have a vehicle handy to check so can anybody with an old type Defender rear door spare wheel carrier, confirm whether or not these washers are threaded, and if possible measure the diameter of the washer? I figure that I can put these on then wind them out till the tyre clears the rear wiper arm, the problem is that the wheel fits on fine but presses hard against the rear wiper and you get through a lot of fuses if you try and wipe the rear window At the moment I have a few washers on there to hold the wheel out but I can see them getting lost the first time I need to take the wheel off... and I want a neater solution. I'm just not 100% sure if these threaded washers are big enough. Part number I think is MUC2368 for a round sort of washer or (apparently) KTD500030 for a hex one (never seen that sort), measurements from either (or both) would be marvellous Ta Stephen

Have you read the thread on Td5 starter solenoid issues? It is an intermittent fault which generally becomes less intermittent as time goes on... and eventually becomes a total "failure to proceed"! http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12088 Edited to add - assuming it is a Td5 of course - you didn't say!

I carefully hoovered all the dust out (several bags full) and sealed mine with some fancy stuff, then painted over the top, and 2 years later all the "wear areas" are back to bare concrete again Somebody suggested to me that the best thing to do is to tip a tin of gloss paint onto the bare concrete and woosh it around a bit with a broom. I think that's my next step...

just try it and see, when I first heard of this I thought it sounded daft too and said all the same things as you just did but it fixed the problem on 2 vehicles I know of just around here

That's easy All you orrible lot are oop norf, only myself and Jim Attrill are down south and even Jim is a bit north for my liking

Erm one is 5 the other is 4 months... Not sure I am contributing to the planet (yet) though I do intend to keep the 110 once I have it the way I want it...

Ah the joys of editing posts Now where is the Altlantic?