BogMonster

Try changing the injector washers that seal at the base of the injectors, between where it goes into the combustion chamber, and the fuel rail in the head. It's not a 5 min job because you need to dismantle the shaft that drives the injector plungers and then reset them all afterwards, but it might fix your problem.

It was tongue in cheek cos I love my V8 as much as the next man Where is the "Malivnos"?

Get a 300Tdi - no heat soak and no IAT sensor Why my coat, thank you I was just leaving

Are you sure its coolant or could it be a blocked drain in the aircon system? The drains normally exit under the vehicle, I'm not sure of the routing inside the vehicle but it could be that. The aircon system naturally generates moisture as it cools the air and this is quite normal, but if it is appearing inside the vehicle you either have a blockage or a leak.

All the standard genuine LR alloys, as far as I know, have the same offset. One option would be to get a set of wheel spacers to space the rims out from the hub, but this would add to the cost. You may find that some of the aftermarket alloys have a different offset, but I don't have any specific info on this. Other steel wheels e.g. modulars or 8 spokes are certainly offset more. Bear in mind that with 235/85R16 tyres you may already be on fairly thin ice with tyre/bodywork clearance and sticking them out further will make this problem a lot worse...

are you sure the bellhousings are different? just that I thought all the V8s use basically the same block so you might even find it goes straight on...

The seals are breaking down which is what makes the fluid muddy, change both master and slave seals now or call a yellow taxi later! You may find the bores are scored and need new cyls complete, but make that decision when you see what they look like.

The two causes you suggest i.e. binding brakes or a stuffed wheel bearing, are the two most likely possibilities. Also a flat tyre gets quite hot when driven on but I guess you would have noticed that

Maybe the D3 and F2 are that "aware" but I'm pretty sure lesser models aren't. Must be useful for police accidents though! So if you see the following sort of pattern full throttle 120mph full left lock full right lock full left lock handbrake 0mph new roof required then there is paperwork to be filled in

There are some "multi function units" in the circuit diagram but it isn't really clear what they do. I suspect it is not as complicated as what you would normally call an "ECU" probably just a timer delay of some sort.

I think some of the lettering e.g. Tdi stickers is in Futura of some variety, seem to remember seeing that somewhere, but if you mean the lettering on the DEFENDER sticker on the radiator surround etc, that is definitely something different again.

I think the implication was that burnt out clutch = lots of power... I have come across a few at work and they have been stopped by using the clutch and 4th or 5th with no bother

Oil in the loom usually causes a misfire if anything.

ok well it doesn't have an EKA code then so you probably are knackered - might need a new alarm ECU and remotes.

There is a sensor and while I have never tried it you should be able to unplug it and either leave it open circuit, or short the connections, to force it to low or high, can't remember which way round forces which mode. Td5 compression test can be done via the glow plug holes but only on 4 cylinders of course! Just out of interest where did you find 15" wheels to fit a Discovery 2 and what sort are they? EGR = exhaust gas recirculation. The problems it causes and means of bypassing it can be found by searching the forum, look in the Defender and International forums plus the Tech Archive, as well as this one, and you'll find tonnes of info.

Land Rovers are (unless new ones are an exception) "not aware of real time" in terms of calendar time/date. I could not say this for sure about the D3 but certainly any older ones aren't i.e. up to D2/Def Td5 - there was a very smug bulletin LR issued around the time of the "Y2K clusterf***" saying that LR vehicles were already millenium compliant as they didn't care what the date was, or words to that effect.

Is it a one button or two button remote?

Increasing pressure increases the temperature at which water will boil, simple as that. If you run a cooling system with no cap on you might/will get localised boiling in the cooling system if the engine is working hard, and that ain't good

I saw that on one of the website but it doesn't say whether that is 110lpm free air delivery or at pressure. The single one quoted something like 72lpm free air delivery and 50lpm into a 30psi tyre so the 110lpm could be less than that in practice By my calculations 110lpm is about 3.88 cfm which is quite respectable for a little 12 volt compressor! I think the "Draper cheapy" mains one I have in my garage is only something like 5.7cfm even though I do wish it was 3x the size most times that I use it

Tony Could you confirm it is the Twin Cylinder one from here http://www.paddockspares.com/scp/NEW_PRODU...Compressor.html (there are 2 options) I see a Bearmach number so I think I should be able to get one for a good price The single pump one looks pretty good too though.

Don't you have a spare remote? Without it, and without a key, you have probably had it. The backup is the EKA code, but the driver's door lock needs to be working for this! Putting the key in the ignition will only disable the passive immob and then only with the remote on the keyring (there is a coil around the ignition barrel which detects the remote) - putting the key in without the remote will not do anything and the only way of shutting the alarm up is the remote or the EKA code. Just disconnect the horn to work on the vehicle or get stuff out of it, should make life quieter but you MAY find you need a new alarm ECU if you cannot find the remote. I suppose you could fix the drivers door lock and then mobilise the vehicle using the EKA code (if you have it) and then get some new remotes programmed to the vehicle.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=3691 from our extremely wonderful Tech Archive

They would have to prove that the warning light was on prior to the accident though "Dunno m8 never seen that light on before"

It doesn't go on engine numbers it goes on VIN numbers, the engine numbers are not an exact sequence. Info is in the tech archive on VIN numbers though it may not be a lot of use to you... the only option may be inspection to see what is fitted, but even then you will only really be able to tell whether a kit is fitted or not, not which kit it is. I suspect the kit would have been fitted according to VIN number if a kit has been fitted.

We have a Draper 10t bench press at work (just for little jobs, got a 50 ton V L Churchill one that is older than me for big jobs B) ) and the cheapy ones like the Draper are more or less the same thing just a glorified bottle jack in a frame. Good idea and a lot cheaper than buying one