BogMonster

Just ordered a set of "Jackcaps" the polybush-material-thingys that stop your jack from rattling, from here http://www.famousfour.co.uk/foursport/hilift.php Except that the back of the packet helpfully states "does not fit a Jackall" (would have been really useful if Famous friggin Four had bothered to put that on their website before I ordered it and shipped it 8000 miles ) The difference is that the Jackall tubular handle is several millimetres bigger than the Hi-Lift type, the rack is near enough the same so the end protector fits onto the rack but the handle clamp doesn't. Does anybody know if you can get the same thing to fit a Jackall? Google hath failed dismally Otherwise I guess it is out with a Stanley knife for some "Bennification"

Yeah sometimes I think a roof would be a good thing for down here, its a bit like a bike, you can't beat it when the weather is right but when the weather is wrong..... and we don't seem to have much of this global warming everybody is in a flap about!

Boat is fine, weather is just too cold to use it at the moment, and the controller of programmes has now decided she doesn't like boats anyway after nearly falling out of it at one point all fixed though, pics of the repair are on RIBnet

Great minds think alike Think I am out of range of shotguns down here

As Matt said a lot of 110CSW (older ones anyway) came with the rear one only, plus the Boge self levelling strut. Dad has one out on the farm - 1986 2.5 petrol 110CSW. Best riding vehicle I have ever been in cross country, but it sits a bit low now because the Boge is in the state most Boges are after 20 years

Tim RAVE no longer exists, all tech info is on line. If you really want to get in to it it is a subscription service which is now available to anybody, www.landrovertechinfo.com not sure how much it costs for just one model, but I think it is about £700 for everything! I have a feeling you can buy 24hrs access or at least you used to be and download whatever you want in that time (but you can't download the workshop manual complete, however if you have Acrobat you can print sections off to a PDF) I may be able to assist with your particular enquiry later, ping me your email address

go on, do it anyway and tell us if it is any good if nothing else it will keep you out of mischief for a few weekends doing it then changing it all back again somebody I know here has driven a TD with a 3 speed auto on (it was his fathers - an unusual apparently-SV conversion for some electricity board or something, with a massive hyd winch on the front) he said it was ok as long as you were not in any sort of a hurry but it wasn't exactly a ball of fire!

A 110 doesn't really weigh too much different to a Discovery at typical kerb weight (may be different if fully loaded for a long trip) so I guess if the rest of the gearing is about the same (bigger tyres but 1.4 t/box to compensate) it should drive much like a Tdi Discovery at low speeds, though I am sure the aerodynamics (if you can call them that!) will knock the stuffing out of it at higher speed. That means I would hate it every time I pushed the accelerator and listened to the tdi auto moooooooooooooooooooo but it depends on what you want

I have a good vapourware project - I haven't even started to think about something I don't have time to build

I think I would lose the fog lights as Td4s without it are bluddy awful

interesting, I run BFGs on my Discovery at well below the std pressures (25 front 30 rear) and they wear evenly!

The 4.0 V8 in the Discovery uses a standard Td5 type air filter and I'm guessing the NAS 4.6 probably still uses that. At any given revs a 2.5 litre turbo engine running at 1 bar boost ought to use the same amount of air as a 5.0 litre naturally aspirated engine, in theory at least...

Duly filed in my "heap of expensive things that require too much temper to fit" might look at it again some time nearer Christmas... think the only hope is going to be to drill all the holes about 10mm oversize and buy a workshop pack of heavy duty repair washers.

all 3.54:1 everything LR make is the same since the 90/110 came out in 1983/84

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr http://www.southdown4x4.com/Fitting/FitTD5110DTP.jpg sounds easy when you say it like that doesn't it ... 2 hours later after jacking, swearing, beating the F*** out of it with a 14lb sledge hammer (just as well I didn't bother with the paint then), I have 1 bolt in 1 of the towing eye holes... and I have 30 min to fit it before I have to be somewhere else... I think it will be going under the bench before the day is out I hate Land Rovers - I had exactly the same problems with the Bearmach tank guard I fitted to the 90, absolutely nothing lined up, I don't know why in this day and age they can't build Defender chassis all the same

I see you point but take it from somebody who has seen many failures of vehicles with solid gears and absolutely no failures with drilled gears in the eleven years LR have been fitting them that it does work, even if it doesn't make sense. I assume it doesn't need much oil and it is the oil dribbling down through the gear after the vehicle has come to a stop that prevents the problem. It works anyway! The other thing with the drilled gears is that in most cases the splines are longer than on the old type gear so it spreads the load.

The difference is if everything is ok it should be a gentle squish like a cowpat between your toes, if it sounds like you have just slashed a tyre it will mean there is a problem The servos are sealed units I think, so there is not really any way of proving the cause of the problem without sawing a hole in it to see if the diaphragm is split, and after that you will need a new one anyway...

I guess the answer is that if you always change it regularly you don't get any sludge building up in the gearbox to get dislodged

probably the servo leaking internally if it only happens when you press the pedal down

internal leak in the servo would be my guess if it only happens when you press the pedal down, if it is whooshing all the time it could be the pump

it's a damper, designed to take out oscillations in the hydraulics and prevent clutch judder or some such thing quite why you would get oscillations in the hydraulics unless you had a twitchy foot, I never understood ... but they have a habit of blowing out leaving you with no clutch, my old 200Tdi Discovery did this, later ones are a different design IIRC the fact that LR did away with it on later vehicles suggests it probably wasn't needed in the first place

Any after some time in 96 have the drilled gear as std and they don't do it. On an auto, changing the mainshaft is just a case of taking it off the rear of the gearbox and popping a new one on, not like a manual where a full rebuild is required...

... touch, barge pole....

You need somebody with a Testbook no way of doing a DIY job

Depending on the age of the vehicle it could be the mainshaft splines where the mainshaft goes into the gear inside the transfer box, but not on later ones (anything 1996 onwards) how old is yours/what VIN number? To be honest they all have a fair old clonk going from D to R and back again especially when hot, you probably need somebody that knows the vehicles very well to tell you whether it is normal or serious.