BogMonster

I use a hot air gun and a sharp (preferably brand new) Stanley knife blade for removal, then meths to clean up the mess afterwards and it also leaves a clean surface to apply the new sticker to.

Well the manufacturer doesn't recommend it so if you have a blowout followed by a fkn great big accident and then find the insurers refuse to pay up don't say you weren't warned Tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim is the best option IMHO.

1001 uses for a Lodar...

I'd start with the switch, its probably f*ed! If it feels as if it is engaging then it probably is.

Does anybody know if "the new Mill Services" are making spring lifters again? The website is unchanged since before Richard stopped working.

Piece of string question - I have seen a Td5 in one of our company vehicles totally u/s at 45k miles while others have similar mileage to yours with no problems.

Thought it was already in the tech archive somewhere but yes it is a very good site, it has been around for a while Edited to add oops no it is a different one the one I was thinking of is here http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html but basically the same thing

It would explain why it has never been found May just turn up in a compound somewhere, showroom condition, somebody has been polishing it every week for the last 50 years and not noticed that it looks a bit different

BFG AT's definitely come in a 255/70R16 because I have a set (my second set in that size) on my Discovery II! Southam Tyres can supply them if nobody else...

255/70R16 I reckon, which I think was what I said last time

A very tactful way of saying that apparently a lot of it is sh&te

Does it b***cks! Apart from depreciate and break down a lot....

I'm not in the UK. New Defenders here had tubed type wheels for years and went to tubeless (but otherwise identical in appearance) wheels a year or so back. No idea on part numbers at the moment. You can still order tube type wheels as an option though. People here run tubeless tyres on tube type rims by fitting TR15 valve cores to the rims, and it is a really really dangerous idea because there is no inner hump to retain the tyre. Having said that nobody has been killed yet - but road speeds here are quite low.

Yeah mine still has teeth on it tho'... Maybe some new gears as well then!

Where does one buy one of these Cloyes roller chains in the UK, and how much? The gen-ewe-whine std chain is only £13 in the price list which amazed me! I actually didn't think it had as much go as it used to either, but I thought it was just me. It still goes pretty well when you get out of a Tdi 110SW I have a pre-stretched genuine Land Rover chain for sale if anybody wants to make me an offer

Welcome

Cheers Ian, pretty much what I thought, i.e. should be almost no play. It doesn't idle near as well as it used to when new - it used to be absolutely smooth but is now "slightly fluffy" at idle, i.e. like most V8s but enough to annoy somebody like me maybe that is the cause, a bit of wobble in the timing. I think an ordinary chain will probably see out the life of the car in my hands, even the D2 has too many ECUs in it for me to want to keep it into double figures, being a pessimist on all things electronic I'm surprised it lasts such a short time though, its been religiously serviced at 6000 miles (often less - every six months) since new, and the interval on the Thor V8 is 12k using the synthetic oil, and it's not had a hard life. By a stroke of luck, it was built when Rover still had an ounce of sense about parts commonality so I have discovered that the Thor chain is actually the same part number as even the old carb'ed engines, so I might find one yet... Thanks

Photos with it pulled one way and then pushed the other: Thinking about it there is a slight metallic knocking at idle and has been for some time, I wonder if it could be the backlash in the timing chain clacking backwards and forwards?

My Discovery is in the garage for the first bit of major-ish surgery in its 5 and a half years, just a coolant leak but seeing as it was the gasket behind the timing case there's a fair bit had to come off to get to it However - now the workshop have got it all to bits the amount of slack in the timing chain concerns me a bit. There is no danger of it jumping a tooth, but its got probably 10-12mm of movement at the mid point between the two pulleys. What's normal for this? The workshop manual for the D2 doesn't give a specified amount of slack for this item but it seems way too much for me, I would have thought no more than about half what it is. Thing is there are very few V8s here so nothing really to compare it with but it seems like a lot for 37000 miles... It's a 4.0 Thor engine but the timing chain etc is basically identical to the older ones. Any thoughts from V8-ers please? BBC and Nige in particular I don't have a timing chain nearer than about three weeks away so it is going to have to go back together for the moment anyway to get it out of the workshop, but I wonder if I ought to be planning to replace it sooner rather than later... Ta

Sounds like a bodge up of half Td5 and half old sort then! I should look in a parts manual and fit the parts for the older type which would be correct for the vehicle, you can then adjust it as you wish.

Interesting, because those two are the ones I would be looking at if I ever went to an electric winch. Says a lot for the EPi that, as a budget unit, it was so close to one of Warn's premium ones.

Recommend you ring their parts department, ask them how many dipsticks they have got in stock, and when they tell you, say that they might find some extra ones in the sales department...

I'd change all the filters (2 x eng oil, plus fuel and air) and all the oils. Forget the brake fluid or the clutch fluid as long as both of them look clean, if either look gungy cloudy or black (especially the clutch fluid) then you may be in the market for some new master/slave cyl seal kits - easier to do these as preventative maintenance rather than when you have had to get a yellow taxi home!

If I had a gearbox that produced wine in 5th gear I would be very happy As it is the red stuff that does come out of gearboxes sometimes isn't that drinkable

Not sure what the specified movement is (if any) but it isn't uncommon to be able to feel a bit of play in the turbo impeller in the ones I have seen. Not something we ever really have problems with here.