BogMonster

Depends on the towing. Lots of stops and starts around town, I'd go for a V8 auto its soooo much nicer and will go when you press the go pedal. Stop start towing with a Tdi is a bit of an exercise in needing either good anticipation, a lot of patience or a lot of clutch abuse to get going briskly. I've never tried towing with a Tdi auto but they are slow enough without tying 2 ton on the back <duck to escape hail of bricks from Tdi auto fans> For longer journeys I think I prefer a Tdi manual, once you get under way and the turbo is blowing it is just as good and uses half the fuel.

Hope your customers don't read that

We mere moderators aren't allowed to do important/complicated stuff like fark about with settings and stuff LR90 and Geoff are the men to talk to

Some play is normal because of what you say, but there isn't a published figure for how much AFAIK. Les, stick your finger in with the engine at 4000rpm and see if its tight then

Same basic axle but with strengthening fillets on the underneath, I saw one on an ambulance here a while ago.

Just to add to this, Land Rover are now supplying the solenoid by itself as a genuine part, rather than having to buy the whole starter motor. Part number of the solenoid is NAF500010 which fits any Td5 starter motor.

Front diff might suffer from the same disease as any others, i.e. the planetary gears wear into the cage causing lots of metal in the oil as you describe. I haven't had this on mine but did on my Series 1 Discovery and the diffs are identical. The diff was dismantled because radar-ears detected a slight gear noise when cornering and the gears were so spaced out due to the wear that it was just starting to chip the tips off the gear teeth, another few hundred miles and it would have gone bang. I was quite chuffed because everybody told me I was hearing things No apparent rhyme nor reason as to which ones do it and which ones don't, I suppose I have seen about a dozen like that in the last ten years, some 110s and some Discoverys. Older diffs (so I am told anyway) had a fibre washer between the gears and the cage to stop this, newer ones don't. If you take the front diff out the problem will be immediately obvious if you look at the cage, on my one the side gears (the ones the halfshafts go through) were worn about 5-6mm into the cage on both sides! Eventually what happens is that the teeth strip on the planetary gears and you get no drive through the diff. No known turbo problems according to the info I have, and I can't recall a single Td5 turbo fail here. Can't say I have ever stuck me finger up one though... not sure what "normal" play is supposed to be.

That would give you sooo much encouragement as an investor "Here you are Sir please buy this for £2bn but I am afraid we can't let you see it or meet the workforce"

15mm pipe insulation is a good choice as it wraps around the bars

to let the mud out

The one on my 90 just sold, was fitted with little U bolts around the rails of the roof rack, to avoid wrecking the galv on the rack. Put some foam between the board and the metalwork to insulate it otherwise the drumming will drive you up the bluddy wall!

You need Testbook to reset the fault code, I know that from having the same experience! It isn't one that resets with time.

Yeah, I mean just LOOK at those chrome wing mirrors Abtholutely tathteleth I have to thay

Oddly enough the general opinion here is that they are better than Discoverys off road... At least some (maybe all) of the 90's vintage Jap market Prados sold here have LSD's in the back axle because I imported some LSD oil for some customers a while ago, you can't use EP90 in them or it screws them up apparently.

It probably depends on market I think. I'm pretty sure the Prados sold here (ex Japanese ones mostly around 1997 age) don't have any lockers in though I don't know if they were LJ70s or not. Since they aren't allowed to drive off road in Japan I think most of the manufacturers found that fitting locking diffs was a bit of a waste and it was better for sales to put a massive "Super Off Roader 4x4" sticker in the rear window certainly the Jap market Mitsubishis don't have the rear axle locking diff that is found in the "real" ones that were sold here at about the same time.

oily/sooty looking glow plugs usually mean the plug isn't working as when they are working they burn any such deposits off very quickly unless temps are well down towards freezing a 300Tdi starts quite well even without the plugs connected so it is entirely possible!

Are you sure it isn't just cr&p in the fan belt? It can make squeaks, ticks, chirrups, scratchy noises and God knows what else that sounds much more serious than it is. My new 110 is doing just that at the moment - a loud noise that really sounds quite mechanical and serious in nature but I know it is just the fan belt!

No - as Simon said. Get the whole lot and p/x the Discofairy R380 for a Defender one at Ashcrofts if they will let you

eh? AT's should last much longer than MT's on the road!

It doesn't roll off the tongue quite so well for a LR as it does for a boat, but in a similar discussion on RIBnet there was a question from somebody who asked if it was tempting fate and the wrath of tree huggers to name his new RIB (complete with massively thirsty outboard of course) as "Carbon Footprint" I think 4x4 drivers and powerboat owners are probably united against a common enemy (and there are quite a few that own both) so I think I'll have to start referring to my V8 as "my carbon footprint"

I'd have a look at General Grabber AT2's based on what I have seen of them. I love my BFG AT's after having used nothing else on my Discoverys for the best part of 10 years now, but next time round I think I'll be going for the AT2s seems to be just as good a tyre and a very similar tread pattern at a useful cost saving. Also look at the budget Kumho KL78 all terrains. Pics of both available here http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/home.aspx

PMSL!

I think we have only ever changed one engine harness and that was one of the first because that's what LR said to do. Since then, as Jim says, just injector harnesses, and lots of them.

Welcome CLutch could be dragging a bit, it doesn't take much. Is it still the original clutch?

Bear in mind though, a little bit of oil in the turbo pipes is normal on most turbo engines and is the reason that cleaning the intercooler is specified at the major services (about every 48k miles or something I think). Flippin great big wodges of black gunge is not normal