BogMonster

Nope it's B&ggered at the moment, I just tried as well, nowt happening Mebbe the server threw up at all the bad jokes being put into it and shorted out

Bending it after fitting into the plate using the wooden block was no problem and worked fine, it was straightening the original bend that was formed in the thermocouple as it was supplied, that caused the problem. You need to do this to be able to push the thermocouple right into the fitting which allows the tip to stick right out in the exhaust gas flow. I don't think you would be able to use the method you suggest for straightening it.

Witchcraft I reckon. I suggest you hit them repeatedly with a hammer

To make it clearer I think it is when the shocker mounts have been lowered or longer shocks fitted, rather than just taller springs (because the problem happens with the axle on full extension)

Oh no it isn't! They are £450 odd and the one on my Discovery is on the way out at 25000 miles of almost all on-road use, I know of several others that have failed - you can't grease the double-cardan joint and the ball joint thingy between the two UJ's develops play and eventually the shaft has to be dumped as you can't replace that bit, only the UJs. Probably not an issue on surfaced roads but it is here... the common fix on a Td5 Discovery is to fit a normal 300Tdi front prop which is the same length (or near enough) and 1/3 the price, nobody has yet commented on any vibration problems. Not sure what I am going to do on my Discovery as the V8 one is different one thing for sure is I ain't forking out that sort of money for a new one! I think I might take out the spring isolators and see if the 1/3" drop is enough to get rid of the problem, if not then I will have to think again I must go and look at my old red 90 and measure the spring thickness on that, to confirm they were 90 rears, as that was OK (but didn't have the isolators IIRC) maybe if I took the older rear springs and put them on the front without the isolators that would be the answer. I just hate taking front shockers off, the bottom nuts are always a PITA. They must have a special gadget in the factory for doing them, either that or they just give the job to somebody they really dislike

The problem I had is that my thermocouple was a lot shorter than Tony's and I kinked it where the bit crimps on to the outer end as there wasn't much to swing on when trying to straighten it. Mine sticks into the manifold about the same amount as Tony's but with the crimped on bit right tight against the compression fitting. seems to work all right though - max temp so far still 603*C normally doesn't get over 500*C in normal driving High EGT can melt pistons, valves, crack manifold or fry the turbo, or a combination of the above. Not sure what happens first in practice and I don't want to find out

Not sure about on full articulation, but I know it can be a problem with a suspension lift on the rear. Basically the ball joints at the axle end of the anti roll bar reach full extension and then when the suspension compresses again the joint turns "inside out" i.e. if it was pointing down it ends up pointing up, IIRC this then means it hits the axle casing as the suspension comes back down, and "bottoms out" so you get a bit of a choppy ride! I guess the same thing could happen to one side on full articulation? - would give a bit of a lopsided ride!

but is it normally worse at low road speeds, or high road speeds? I would have thought worse at higher speed but on mine it seems to disappear what is the normal problem with prop vibration? I could take it off and try it like that but I am lazy

The other weekend I changed the front springs on the 90 for 90 rear ones to restore a bit of altitude under the bows due to slightly saggy old front springs. However..... Having driven it for a while I notice that there seems to be a bit of vibration from something at low speeds under load. I first noticed it when I was towing a broken down 110, and pulling away in first gear with the 110 on a rope behind there was quite a noticable judder. It's less obvious with nothing tied to the back and pretty much disappears once you get a bit of speed up. What are the normal symptoms of propshaft vibration? I've never suffered from the problem before and as I've said before the old 90 had "90 rear" springs on the front and didn't do it - though those were second hand ones and these are new (so possibly sit a little higher), also these have the ANR2938 isolator rings on top. Does the prop normally vibrate at low speed, or high, when the operating angle of the UJ's is a little too much? The obvious culprit is something to do with the suspension being higher as it wasn't doing it before. Any experience of lift-related vibrations would be appreciated I hope that if this is the problem I might be able to get away with just taking the isolator rings out - they are about 0.3" thick so will reduce the height by about that much, might be just enough to stop the vibration? So much for only having to take all the front shockers and stuff off once - famous last words Oh well if they have to go in the bin at least the springs were free, glad I didn't have to buy them a shame as everything else about the lift is fine, just about what I wanted, but I am not prepared to go to the expense of double cardan props, I'd rather lose half an inch at the front

I understand the Td5 type "airbag without an airbag" wheel will fit straight on to the splines in place of the original 4 spoke wheel fitted to earlier 90/110. But a Tdi type one (with the dig-outable LR badge in the middle as fitted to all mid 1990s 300Tdis) will not - that is a different spline which is the same as a Rover Metro wheel, because somebody I know with an older 300Tdi has one of those fitted, a nice modification for a smaller wheel but it won't fit yours. The "airbag" wheel is fitted to some new vehicles (e g Tdi 90 Station Wagons like mine which is 2004, and I think most or all Td5s) and the "old" type wheel is fitted to some others (such as new Tdi engined 110 Station Wagons). Quite why LR choose to have 2 different types of steering column and two different types of steering wheel on vehicles being produced simultaneously on the same production line is one of life's unanswerable questions....

Ah er yes I was - thanks Jon 100 lines I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions I am a pillock and should read the instructions [snip] I saw something or other about a "mac address" and I assumed it was just summat to do with them funny expensive PC's with a picture of some half-eaten fruit on the front so I didn't take any more notice of that bit.... I was messing with it at work this morning and now its gone back into open mode anyway and refuses to budge from that It was restricting access I was after rather than actual encryption - but having said that, despite all the rubbish about 802.11g having 1500ft range I can't get any signal in the building next door which is only about 50ft away, so I'm not sure it's going to be a problem anyway, anybody parked outside the office with a laptop perched on the dash of their car ought to be fairly obvious Moral of the story, if in doubt read the instructions Thanks Stephen

bump anybody got any ideas please or do I just hit this stupid thing with a hammer and give up? ta S

Mine didn't have the allen head bolts it had normal flange screws (they took quite a bit to undo though) so I wonder if this was a common problem and LR changed them? Lots of copper grease went on them when they went back in but not sure how long even copper grease will last at 500 odd degrees

Just finished fitting the Thermoguard EGT gauge in preparation for a bit of twiddling - I wanted to fit one and watch it for a couple of months before I do anything The 300Tdis sold here don't have EGR so no problems in putting the thermocouple there: I opted for the supplied pre-drilled blanking plate to avoid messing up the old one so I could keep that in case I ever want to remove it. I also straightened the thermocouple and re-bent it again as per instructions from White90 but I thought I had F'ed it up so I don't think I'd do that again - even being very very careful and using a block of wood with the exact sized hole drilled in it, it still kinked the thermocouple slightly and damaged the crimping at the end where the lead goes in - it is a very strong thing and needs a lot of force to bend it. My advice would be to try and get a straight one supplied in the first place as it does need to go further in than is possible with the standard shape and I had a job to get it to go into the fitting because of the fact it wasn't perfectly straight. Run the thermocouple lead up the air intake hose, bit of an "S" to allow movement between engine and bulkhead, and in through the existing grommets: I decided that the best place for the display unit was under the middle of the dash, not much room for anything else there due to the gear lever, and it would be easily visible and out of the way: The thermocouple lead goes in through the bulkhead to behind the speedo binnacle, along under the trim to the left of the speedo binnacle, and out underneath the facia beneath the radio (hidden underneath the EGT display) then into the back of the display unit. Power lead goes down into the fusebox, the ground picks up on a spare earth and the positive side goes into the feed to the radio which is on a 5 amp fuse. Having been out for a test drive the max I could get was 603*C with some heavy right foot up a long hill in 5th, normal driving was in the range 300-400*C and up to about 550*C pulling up a hill "normally" so I reckon there's a bit of scope for amending the settings in due course - I'll watch it for a while yet though, I am curious to see what it does off road with no airflow through the intercooler, and also when towing. Interesting also to see that you can get quite high EGT off boost, if you labour the engine along in 5th at about 25mph with full throttle you can get up to about 450 without developing much power at all Cold idle gave about 100*C and hot idle after the test drive about 170*C. Should be a useful bit of kit I hope and will remove the element of doubt when I later get around to making some adjustments and fitting a bigger intercooler. The advice is that temperatures over 720*C are likely to damage something so I'll be staying well clear of that.

Can't resist the chance to say "better get a bigger one while you are at it" I think they usually corrode through between the guard and the tank due to accumulated crud in there which never dries out, lots and lots of fibreglass is one solution but probably as well to get a new tank. I would have thought a tank is a tank, as long as it holds fuel it ought to be OK. I haven't changed a 90 one but I am reliably informed it is really good fun

OK so I now have the wireless access point up and running and have persuaded it to go into secure mode (for some reason you can't secure it when you have a password set - must be a glitch in the software) and now the laptop pops it up as a "secure network" and asks for a network key. But - "security" doesn't make any difference! I was under the impression that once a network key had been set (it's a Belkin F5D7130 WAP, using WPA-PSK [no server] security - the AP has several options) you couldn't access the AP without knowing the network key. Except that you can you can type fishhavetroublebreathingincement into the dialog box on the laptop, and it doesn't care and happily connects using that or anything else! Have I completely missed the point of this "security"? It seems anybody could connect to this and use whatever they wanted as a network key - which seems to defeat the object of securing it just slightly.....

Bit old for a climbing frame aren't you? Coat on and outta here

that's the thing - no consistency My Tosh works at home (patch cable) at 100 to the Dell desktop, works at work 10 to the hub, but not at 100 to a socket in another office. Another laptop works fine at 100 into the same socket (different cable though) aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh I hate networks Now I have Jon W's guide to telling cables apart I was going to do exactly what you suggest and mark them all as to what they are. I can't believe the manufacturers can't be bothered to do this

"simonr models the latest in slicks from the Simex range"

Thanks ... I might see if I can blag some cable from somewhere as the home-made ones our IT person made for us seem to be the only ones that last any time! the made-up ones you buy from the shops seem to be rubbish

Can somebody answer a couple of network thickie questions: 1) Do you require any special cables for 100Mbit network connections? I am having problems with some stuff at work which will work fine through the 10MBit hub in my office but take it into another office (same kit, same cables, same settings) and it will not work at 100MBit through the network socket in that office - but it should do (for example my Tosh laptop will connect to my desktop PC at home at 100, will connect to the office network at 10 through the hub, but won't connect to the office network at 100 - though the settings and cables are all the same; I have the same problem with a WiFi access point I am trying to set up which works in one office but not the other). All using std network cables with RJ45 connectors on if that makes any difference. 2) How do you tell the difference between a normal RJ45 patch cable and a crossover cable if it isn't labelled? Twice now I have ended up buying crossover cables not patch cables because they were poorly labelled in the shop - there is nothing on them to say they are crossover cables but from connecting them up I know they are - but I am not sure how to tell the difference from the pin wiring etc - is there an easy way? what exactly is the difference - are there just 2 wires transposed or what? Thanks

What is it a GEMS ECU or the new Thor one? not sure what sort of central heating plant is in a 50th... if a Thor one you are stuffed as I tried to find out about upgraded ones and all the answers I got said that the security on the Thor ECU was too much of a PITA to make it worth trying to tweak and that the base settings were about as good as could be expected anyway, without doing mechanical stuff like changing the cam

Ta maybe the different holes are to allow for "LR build tolerances" then It is a std 90 axle, I also got a P38 type one on the same order for somebody with a fairly new 110 (with the new nasty-type back axle) and that was a far more substantial thing - a lot wider across the back than the one I have, mine only protects about 1/3 of the width of the diff pan so if you smacked it on something you'd have to aim straight better than nothing I suppose - and the last bit of armour I need (just fitted a fuel tank guard as the tank on my 90 is under the back like a 110 and has picked up "one or two scars" ) Edited because Michele's answer crossed in the post - that makes sense now

Just got a QT diff guard for the back of the 90 perhaps there is an obvious explanation but on top of it there is a bracket (supplied loose with the guard) which must go to the front of the diff and bolts on to the top couple of retaining bolts that hold the diff into the axle, however, where this bracket bolts to the guard it has 2 bolt holes in it, as does the guard itself. Problem is these holes don't line up, not by a long way, if you fitted the bracket using 2 bolts it would be off at about 30 degrees to the angle it should be at. the only way I can see you could fit it would be using only 1 bolt but that means there would be 1 little bolt (prob only M8) taking all the force when you smack it against something just wondering if they are all like this or whether some twit drilled the holes all wonky?? sorry I don't have my camera at work but if needed I'll post a pic to show what I mean bit far to send it back it could obviously be "made to fit" with a drill and tap I just wondered if there was a sensible explanation before I attack it? the whole thing looks a bit weedy really considering it was twice the price of the one I have on the front... and its only passivated not galvanised which is far less durable

No, you're right, it wouldn't on a RR/Disco, only on a Defender I'll shut up