BogMonster

My Discovery has the "Thor" type engine with the same setup - coils round the back. So far round the back, in fact, that I think you've probably got to take the engine out to change them fortunately no ignition problems in 3 years (he said foolishly ) Another drawback of the wasted spark system is apparently if you take a plug lead off to check for a misfire, because the spark hasn't got a plug to pop off in it can go back through the engine ECU instead (as spark timing etc is driven by the engine ECU on a Thor) and I guess that means £££££ I think about £800 last time I looked! So I guess the same would happen if a plug lead fell off. I've made mine splutter a bit going through water too fast but generally it seems to be a much better system and the V8 runs perfectly without having to mess around with anything.

It's a serious point though as there's nothing to stop it being put on the other way round and it would be somewhat aggravating to buy a RH thread one, get home, take it off and find some pillock had put it back on the other way around!

he isn't going to hear the last of that for a while is he? that's the second time I read it in as many minutes

As long as the rod hasn't been put back on the wrong way around...

Don't see why not, the only thing might be that you may need to support the front pipe to stop it breaking the manifold, can't remember where the exhaust mountings are on a 2.5P

Good suggestion Steve: but already on there The previous owner fitted them to the back springs to cure a boingy spring and I put a pair on the front springs this morning - I've used them on previous vehicles and they do seem to reduce the amount of road noise. I was just waiting for somebody to say something about that shocker..... no comments about the nuclear explosion outside the window then? The new ones are a rather loud shade of yellow back ones were bluddy hard to get on too - the amount of gas pressure in them is huge and I had to sit on it to get it to go down then quickly zip in underneath and fit it before it extended too far - I couldn't compress them lying under the vehicle, too strong. Took four attempts on one side, and I bashed my head on the trailing link trying to get under the vehicle while the rapidly extending shocker was trying to insert itself up my nose

Sorry Tony, wasn't aware it was supposed to be a secret! I have done the swap now and it now sits very slightly higher at the front than at the back: front bumper height off the floor has increased by 55mm passenger side 66mm drivers side (soon level that up when I get in though ) and as I reckon it was a good inch lower than std with the old springs plus the winch, I guess that should be about an inch above what a std non-winch vehicle would be - just about spot on. Need a tweak at the back as well but I think HD 90 rear springs would be too solid so I think a call to Mill Services might be in order - those are light enough to come by air so will be here in a couple of weeks. I do like these Monroe gas shocks - they felt really stiff when I was pumping them (ooer) and I thought the ride might be a bit choppy but it's really good - I walloped it through a few holes that will bottom the Discovery front end out and it hardly noticed. They were a silly price from Bearmach too - landed here they only cost about the same as std LR ones

Nothing else wireless is in the area AFAIK - and I tried it with the laptop's wireless widget off, in case it wouldn't change mode if something was connected to it It is just a Belkin wireless access point that plugs into a network hub, not a router (the router is in another building). It works fine in unsecured mode but just doesn't want to secure itself. Oh well I'll hit it and swear at it, sometimes that works

Think yourself lucky you have got BB to break

hmmm not getting anywhere so far stoopid thing won't allow me to enable the security for some reason - you can set it through the config screen but then it goes straight back to unsecure grrrrrrrr there's money out there for anybody that invents a network technology that you just plug in and it bluddy works every time!!!!

Cool, I am now on-forum wirelessly B) I did as you suggested and though as far as I can see it hasn't changed any of the settings I had, it now works and before it didn't! Didn't spot the networking wizard as I was looking under the normal network connections, oops Many thanks for your help yet again ask and the forum shall provide (and bluddy quickly too!) PS now need to secure it so just watch me F it up again......

As my new laptop has wireless networking in it, I decided I'd have a play with this to see how it works But as usual I am not getting very far So I have a wireless access point and it's connected to the network and I think properly configured for the network (at least it responds to a ping from another PC on the network and I can open the config program in IE6, to do that you type in the access point's IP address and it "loads" a "website" from the AP to change settings) But I can't get the laptop to talk to it. It recognises the network in the wireless list, and connects to it, but nothing Internetty will come in or out. I'm not sure what I should set the laptop IP address to - should it be the same as the AP as it is going through that (but doesn't work); should it be the same IP address as I used to use when the laptop was wired into the network hub using a normal cable (that doesn't work) or something completely different? At the moment I have the IP address I would be using when the laptop was on the network, and the same subnet mask, DNS and gateway settings as well. When I was messing with settings yesterday I think I might have ****ed something up in the settings for the laptop's wireless adaptor, but I uninstalled and reinstalled that and it seemed happy, as I said it connects to the network just won't let any data come and go. any ideas from learned network people please? I haven't a clue what I am doing with this stuff as you can probably tell Thanks Stephen

Further on this, I just checked the spring rates of what Tony is using (OME 764/781 F/R) and they are 240lb and 290lb!

Most 300Tdi alternators will give around 14.2-14.4V 15V is definitely into boiling battery territory money pit strikes again

Nige I'm not that scientific! All I know is 1) I used to have some 90 rears on the front of the old red 90 and it sat about where I wanted it to (springs were changed by previous owner but he told me they were 90 rears) 2) I have some free 90 rears available right now 3) the front of the 90 is really sitting quite low compared to what it used to when I first got it (and before the MM went on) You are right it does make the ride quite noticably harder than std springs but it also removes the problem of the front end bottoming out when you f*** it up and hit something hard because you weren't looking where you were going you have to hit something really v hard to bottom the front out with rear springs on. Basically I think I will measure the ride height, fit these, measure it again and use it for a bit to see what it is like, since it isn't costing me anything to do it. Another option is to refit the original fronts but get some +1" or +2" lifters like Mill Services supply, but again those are a few weeks away. JST - thanks for your offer but the cost of shipping them down by air would be as much as buying new springs Here is a pic of the old red 90 with "rears on the front" and "rears plus 1" lifters on the back" - 33x12.50R15 tyres. Looked about right to me, steering was OK on road, didn't chew up UJ's and didn't bottom out. The only thing I had to change was the rear shocks for the slightly longer 110 type but with these new Monroes being much, much stiffer than std I think the "topping out" on the back should be minimal. PS do not swat a fly in the middle of your monitor, like I just did. It makes so much mess and then smears everywhere when you try to wipe it off

Your latest choice being what then? I have done some more digging anyway, the ones on the back of the 90 are not the RKB ones they are the same colour code as the ones I just got, 16.2mm dia and I got a set of the RKB ones and they are 17mm diameter so they must be heavier. I think I'll just put these on the front and see what it looks like then maybe get a set of spacers for under the back springs if it looks nose-high. You are forgetting two important things Tony - the springs I have are 1) Free 2) Here Neither of which should be underestimated anything I order now probably won't be seen this side of Christmas! What I really want on the back is a set of Disco rears but I can't get any of those at the moment. My old red 90 had 90 rears on the front and 90 rears with +1" Mill Services spacers on the back and that was pretty much ideal. Much higher and it won't go in the garage anyway

Now I have a set of Monroe gas shocks to go on the 90 I also need to think about springs at the same time - because I hate taking front shockers off so I only want to do it once!!! So, I have a set of almost brand new 90 rear springs I just "acquired" in a swap for some of the rubbish under my bench, these are, according to the jbarge site the std 90 rears NRC9448 and NRC9449 as they are blue/red and yellow/white, so according to that site 225lb rating. Does anybody know the rating of the RKB101230 and RKB101240 springs as fitted to Defenders now ... stronger than the old p/no or the same? I am not 100% sure but I think the RKB ones are what mine has on the back as I think all new 90s come with those on the back, but that p/no isn't listed on the jbarge site. The main thing really is whether I just put the 9448/9449s on the front and leave the rears as they are (which I will do if the ones currently on the back are heavier than the 9448/9449, as apart from anything else it means less work!) or put the older and therefore slightly softer rear springs on the front, and put the new ones I just got on the rear (which I will do if they are all the same rating). I could of course take the rears off and clean them up/sit them side by side with the ones I just got but as I may not need to take them off I'd prefer to find out if there is a difference the lazy way The object of this is to restore a bit of height at the front, because since I have the winch etc on there, the front springs have gone a bit flat and fitting 90 rears is a good way of sorting this out. Also they were "free" which is good Any info please?

Yeeks! I wonder how long the wheel bearings and king pins last with those

Unbelievable! It looked like you should have almost been able to drive it out of the first situation with a bit of thought ... bit more work needing to be done by the end though!

Turned out to be a frggn trojan!! NAV didn't pick it up on last week's virus defs but I noticed there were two msmsgs.exe programs running so after a bit of digging I found there's a virus that uses the same filename, this weeks virus defs did pick it up now got rid of ... more info here if anybody is interested

Not always In practice it can be a pig of a thing to get out unless you can get around behind it with the winch which is not always easy! The ring on the back of the spade is the one I use for removing it from the ground but I can advise that if you forget to attach anything to that before it disappears it becomes a PITA to get your grippa back! no prizes for guessing how I know that

I winched mine on a rock and it ended up like this looked quite, er, "rakish" once back on the roof I thought forgot about it and almost totalled my garage roller door when I put the 90 away though so I did this and this and now it doesn't bend there any more just a few other bits look a bit "non factory"

Yes, he did, now you mention it Several times in fact

I would soak overnight in WD40 or penetrating oil and give the bolt heads a few very sharp taps with a small hammer, this can sometimes help to loosen seized bolts like that. A rattle gun is probably not a good idea as it will probably shear them off. I also have a box from Australia, the contents of which are currently connected to my indoor 12V power supply for the 2 VHF radios in the sitting room, hopefully being only 18 months old my EGR plate bolts will come out reasonably easily!

I would like to claim a new one free under warranty since I broke everything on the old one