BogMonster

We can still get 300Tdis here B) I think the latest rumour is about 2008 isn't it, but then they've been saying the Defender is going since about 2001 so who knows

Except that he probably can't log on there at the moment like most people can't

I haven't Lara, why aren't you allowed a handbrake? Is it a legal issue where you live, or a restrictive financial controller?

red text like that you have to click the colour thing type your text in blue and then click it again so it does a /color tag and then it goes back to black

I know that passivating one's KittyGripper does not protect it from damage

The Salisburys can get pretty slack with no adverse effects. They almost never break though - but 220k is quite a long way

do the later 110s not have vented discs on the front therefore a lot wider? 90s don't but I thought 110s did have

I will try and dig out the stuff and photos I did of the original MM install on my old 90 - it's only a std unit but the instructions from Alfred Murray are non-existent so it is probably worth adding thought you had seen the light when I first saw the post title

Feel sorry for me then ... I'm in Government as well But the election is next month then I am free

I thought the Vaseline thing was mainly in respect of older V8 pumps which don't self-prime, but maybe it applies to all? wouldn't hurt anyway

Not a concern for you then Nick!

Speak of the devil

not much of a test though.... 90 weighs what, 4000-4500lb? 10mm synthetic rope is rated at about 22,000lb something wrong if it broke!

That's OK I intend it to be clean underneath when I am changing shockers and it will definitely be in the garage didn't think the mechanism would be that strong just due to its size. The std front shocks have a 19mm nut on the end but for some reason these Monroes have a 17mm retaining nut on the front (though the back is 19mm). It's just to have something ratchety to wind the locknut off once it is loose, as there is a restricted range of movement under there and as I'm sure most have experienced it is a fiddly PITA doing it with a ring or open ender especially if the threads are a bit icky - doesn't need much force just the right tool for the job (as the actress said to the archbishop )

Given that rivnuts struggle to hold a step on I have my doubts they'd hold a winch on

Estimated time left: 1hr 47 min bah

If they are like mine, if you look closely the O ring will be fitted in a groove at the base of the "hex" bit the spanner goes onto. The way the caps should be retained is that once on there, it is just given a tap with something like a cold chisel at each "point" of the hex which bends the thin cap into the groove by a mm or so, thus stopping it from falling off. Some of the aftermarket nuts I have seen, the person whose interesting job was doing this must have gone for a tea break so they were just a sliding fit. Some of the other (older type) nuts have no shiny caps, but are just solid cast things, I can't remember the p/no of those offhand but there are the two types (and there are others, for spare wheels, which have the hole drilled right through) the "capped" ones are ANR2763MMM I think. The ones without shiny caps tend to go rusty, my "free" alloys came with those and they were rusty so I binned them and got the capped ones. Bearmach do either sort for very reasonable prices, that's where mine were from. LR prices are horrific!

I have Monroe Adventurers on there now The problem is most noticeable in 3rd low and 1st high because that is where the "wobble speed" coincides with the torque band on a Tdi I think. It is road speed related not engine speed, though once you know it is there you can actually feel it through a fairly wide speed range.

New Def now have a different spare wheel carrier and the wheel sits against the flat body of that (like on a Discovery) but I think the older type had a big thick threaded washer that sat behind the wheel. I guess you could find some big washers that would slip onto the prongs of the carrier and sit against the nuts to do the same thing, but a dealer ought to be able to supply the proper bits. The caps stay on the nuts, they should be crimped on (though some of the cheapo non-gen ones aren't and the cap can fall off!) and are slightly loose but don't come off. Unless you regularly use a rattle gun on them that is but if you took it off the nut body would then be too small for a 27mm wheelspanner. Depending on what size tyres are on there you may also need to fiddle with it to clear the rear wiper arm - 265s certainly need some "adjustment" usually just wind the top inner nut out a bit so it sits a bit crooked on the door.

I found one Seventeen bluddy quid though a pound a millimetre! the 19mm one was only £9 in a different shop ... can't work that one out It fits on fine though, masses of room, not sure why you had a problem Turbocharger? must be half an inch clearance at least. However I have now decided not to bother anyway (I have the flu at the moment, I crawled underneath and thought "Do I want to spend about 2 hours under here when I am feeling like this" and the answer swiftly came back "do I b****cks!") also if I put the old springs back on now I will need to take it off again to do whatever I eventually decide on. The other thing that make me decide to leave it for a while is that I have just been for a spin off-road to see what the vibration felt like and it just occurred to me that my old 90 always did that - there is a distinct resonance in the gear lever in 3rd low range at probably about 2000rpm, just the sort of speed range I would often use off road and it must be down to the front prop. I always wondered why the old 90 did that pulling under load and never thought anything of it (it was like that when I got it and not really bad - the gear knob probably moves about 1/2 inch side to side) but I guess it was because of the springs that were fitted to that vehicle when I bought it. I guess it isn't going to wreck anything in the short term because I had no UJ problems in the 20,000 miles I did in the old 90 while I had it. Also it means I don't have to take all that rubbish off now which is the main thing

I guess if you chopped the "pin" off the end of the shocker (the stupid bit about 6mm across that is there to put a spanner on to tighten the nut except it usually rounds off so you end up doing it with a Stilson onto the shocker body as usual) it would fit? You can get an ordinary ringspanner in there with no problem (without chopping off the pin) and this isn't much bigger surely? At the very least if it got you 3/4 of the way there it would save 3/4 of the swearing Guess who is about to have to take all his firkin suspension to bits again due to propshaft vibration Words sounding a bit like cluck, fit and rowlocks are about to be uttered I think Edited ... thanks Tony, but I need to sort this prop vibration out quickly so I think I'll have to grin and bear it. The combination ones (ring one end open ender the other) are what the shop here sells too, just in the wrong sizes. They can go on the shopping list for my next visit to Halfords

I think I have found the answer to reducing the amount of swearing at bottom nuts on front shockers Ratchety ring spanner Typically, I even managed to find somewhere here selling something similar but only as a 19mm and the one I need for my front shocker nuts is 17mm I think it would be the solution though - a bit like the Difflock propshaft tool once you had one you would wonder how you ever coped without it Only thought I had is how strong the ratchety bit is but I guess it would be OK as long as you loosened the nut with a conventional ringspanner first.

"Boggy"? you after a thick ear or summat? come here and say that....

The newest Defenders are back to galv cappings now B) should never have changed IMHO, the worst of the bunch were the early Td5s most of which now have red rusty body cappings. Not sure when they changed back, but I think it might have been from the 2002 model year with the new dash. I think the wheel brgs are all the same size just that the older ones are oil lubricated and the newer ones are grease lubricated (and mud/water lubricated when the seal fails). AFAIK the same basic bearing fits everything from a Series 3 right through to something the age of mine, stub axles, oil seal and hubs etc are different on some and the adjustment is different from Td5 age (a fixed selectable shim between the brgs and a big stake nut rather than double nuts and lock washers for adjustment) but I am pretty sure the actual bearing is the same. Turbocharger, I am sure the 300s don't have a hole for the starting handle - my 1995 90 didn't anyway - though not sure when it changed. Most of them are hidden by number plates so it's hard to tell! The other thing that has come back into the design in the last couple of years is a ribbed roof B) funny how history repeats itself

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