Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I used my legs; lie under the car with the box on your knees with a bit of foam between your knees and the box. Bend your legs upwards, once your up and move to the left onto the boltholes, fit 2 bolts with your hands, done. On their own, the boxes are not heavy, loose the brake drum and it becomes pretty manageable.
Daan
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And this is the other one that he has :
Is that a LT95 gearbox with a 1.61 transferbox (filler opening on top) attached to it ?
The box is an lt77.
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On the same subject, anyone read the latest Total Off-Road magazine?.
It has an article on buying a hybrid, lots of comments on how someone made it etc, but nothing what so ever about the legal status of the vehicle.
It is clearly registered (and taxed I assume) as a 1959 SWB, but descibed as a shortened Range Rover chassis, I know there is a points system but since it has a Range Rover chassis (modified), axles, steering, suspension and a changed engine, then if anything it should carry the Range Rover registration and identity or a Q plate. Before the SVA it was legal to modify chassis with out a retest so it MIGHT fall into that age but there is no way enough parts for it to be a 1959 series 2.
Picture 2 page 30 also shows some very dodgy welding and a rust hole in the left chassis leg (although I have seen a lot worse on road vehicles!).
A lot of people will get away with this and not consider it a problem, in many cases it isn't until something happens and for some reason the vehicle is examined then everything comes apart. Potentially it will be confiscated as no provable identity, fined for being on the road with no tax (this could be viewed as fraud) and what could be the worst bit no valid insurance. If the reason for the examination is a serious accident the insurance company WILL look for a way out, if you have insured a series 2 but the police examiner says it is not the insurance is totally void and you become personally liable for any costs, injuries etc, if you have any assets (house?) wave good bye to it.
I saw that story too, no magazine will tell you the truth about this, which is a bit scary, because most newbies will read the mag and think it is therefore ok to have a tax free defender. The pre 98 rule in my opinion is flawed, because if there is no test done than there is no paperwork to prove it, so it could be any date. That makes it a handy rule for anyone to hide behind with an illegal car, but i doubt it will stand up in court if you had a big shunt. Ultimately, your car needs to be tested and proven against construction and use regs, pre 98 or not. So if the car is standard it is type approval, if not its IVA.
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Yes, I competed against him on the argyl forest challenge. Would love to know the weight of it though.
Daan
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I know you read the thread about 300 tdi intercooler removal, and my efforts to measure the intercooler temperatures. I suggest you do the same, before you start building your system. At least you than have a baseline to compare it with. There is alot of unknowns I found when it comes to diesel tuning, the bigger intercooler and adding more fuel mod works I presume, but noone I ever spoke with had a clue what the mods meant in terms of temp drop, increase in volume, reduction in cooling due to the radiotor being obscured etc. I know you like to do things proper, so don't be one of those.
Daan
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I would echo the comment about a bigger intercooler being better than the same area of water -air heat exchanger. Also, have you actually measured what the intercooler does? Saying from the EGT that the intercooler doesn't do much sounds a pretty short sighted conclusion if you ask me.
Daan
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Tensioner Is where I'd look first. I've been bonnet deep and it never made bad noises or slip.
Daan
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Where do you get agri-style HD tubes from?
I Bought them here:
http://www.allterraintyres.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1095_1263_1296
I use 10 x 16 inner tubes.
To reply to TSD; Ok, there may be instances were an inner tube went wrong, but given the situation of fridge with tubeless tyres on non tubeless rims, which is illegal, I'd say fitting a tube is an improvement. I personally run tubeless tyres (simex), with tubes on a tubeless rim. This in my experience is the best way of keeping a tyre seated on the rim while offroading at low pressures (short of bead locks). I suppose the risk is them running hot while driving at speed with too low pressures, then blow out. Also, the correct size is important.
I suppose a blow out has never happened to me in 24 years of driving my landrover, and that's why I dont worry about it.
Daan
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Band a set of TDCI rims. Still, I dont see a problem with putting a tube in a tubeless tyre. I forever ran that myself.
Daan
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They do a version that bolts onto standard defender pin-pin mounts as well.
Daan
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Just as an aside, are we aware of series land rover being stolen at the moment. I am not sure were to put the series, in simon's R words: 'you couldn't give a series away'. Which would mean not interesting for thieves. But a restored example fetches strong money these days, so I am not so sure how things are with them.
Daan
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Dad had a sand coloured s3 109 when I was 6. I thought I will have one when I get older; 11 years later I bought my first and only landrover. I still have it a few decades later:
I Hope my interest in landrovers will rubb off to the next generation. Adi is 5 now.O, I use it for the occasional off roading drive, and do the tip runs. Would like to use it in the snow this year, but that seems a distant memory!Daan -
she's a looker.
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Geen probleem.
about 3".
Daan
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I managed to get some pictures:
my current setup is a bit different from a standard 88, because I use a 90 tank, so I had to remake the filler pipe. But I had the bulhead mod done on my original 88" with the original tank as well, so it can be done.
Have a look at the pics:
Last picture shows the footwell extension; this pushes the pedals 40 mm forward. If you were to replace the footwelss (like I did), this would add little extra work.Daan -
I cut the bulkhead at the sides, cut a wedge out of the wheel boxes and folded the bulkhead backwards. and straigthened the existing fold and cover the holes with aluminium sheet. Nearly 3" more legroom this way. I dont want to remove the bulkhead, it only means garbage in the back is going to find its way forward if you brake hard or crash.
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Slightly late to this, but is the bleed nipple in the top cylinder or the bottom cylinder?
In case of the bottom cylinder (like a landrover), bleeding is impossible. You can re-route the brakelines or try to bleed before you refit the backplate.
Daan
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Goed gedaan jochie!
Daan
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Surely if the thing gets bashed enough to make it un-spannerable you could cut your own slot with a grinder or attack it some other way to remove it as I assume no-one would be daft enough to re-fit a mullered part...
Personally I dislike the square socket ones as they fill up with crud.
If the hex is recessed in the hole, cleaning will be even harder. I'd say the exposed thread will get muddy and rusty, and when you try to take out the plug, it will pick up like b4st4rd. More importantly, you will bash the tread of the housing if you hit a rock, and getting it out will be a even harder. removing crud from the square will take 2 min. I had had the rear bronze plug wearing out, together with the steel threaded bush in the axle casing, it had worn off by about 2mm by rocks.
Square I will buy, hex I wont.
Daan
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measure the width through the hole for the hub and deduct 1 inch.
Daan
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doesn't the diesel have a return and the petrol hasn't?
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Well, I run a magnet in the genuine square plugs, and that works a treat, they do fill up with mud, but that is easily fixed. I can see the 17 mm hex getting worn off on rocks rather soon; and then try getting it off.
Yes, the square can easily be machined; I design it for you free of charge if you want me too.
Daan
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On my cummins converted 110, I used a 3/8" prv tapped into the the pressure line before the steering box, return to tank.
No trouble to date as it only works when at full lock.
The clue is in the last sentence: It will get to max pressure at full lock, and to the same pressure if you try to turn the wheels against something solid; I dont think you need a prv, as the steering box already has one. Remember that a pump doesn't create a pressure; it generates a pressure against the system upstream. normally a pump has some prv, maybe you can remove this and fit a weaker spring. I would start with plumbing it in and see what you have. Speaking of which, when is the first fire up?
Daan
Body or suspension?
in International Forum
Posted
bodylifts are designed by people who are too lazy to cut the wheelarches. They are of very little use, as you chassis stays the same height. I lowered my body to reduce cof g and kept cutting the wheelarches untill the wheel fitted at full bump. extended bump stops (and shock droppers) are of similar use to a bodylift and in my opinion the work of the devil, for obvious reasons. A previous post, the one about what you actually want from your car is valid here.