Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I agree with Simon I'm affraid I like the lines drawing but it should be a 90/110.
Mike
It should be a series 3 obviously.
Daan
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It changes the look of the wheel though Lewis which I don't want. To whole reason of going to the trouble of having them banded.
If I end up needing/wanting beadlocks it will have to be stauns.
Wolfs are going to change the look; band some defender wheels instead!
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The point made about the hex head is valid: I haven't bought these plugs for this reason. If they were steel with a internal square, I would buy them in an instant.
I would buy the magnetic engine drain plugs as well, as long as they are steel.
Daan
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For Ladoga I ran a 35x13.5x15 maxis mudzilla on 8.5 john sales double beadlocks. They started life as 10X15 rims, but I asked john to take out 1.5" while doing the beadlock conversion. Main reason was to get a 15" wheel inboard as far as possible to save steering boxes and TRE's. Brilliant tyre in swamps BTW. I would worry more about offset than width myself. as mentioned, if you dont use beadlocks, go as narrow as sensible.
Daan
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I try to keep the 90 looking a bit ratty for exactly those reasons Al
If we assume that like most other stolen Land Rovers it would be stolen to break for parts, then actually it would be a waste of their time - the doors are rust from the lower hinge down, there isnt a straight panel on it, and the chassis has been heavily modified in such a way that it would be useless to someone else. But sadly the filthy stinking pikeys wouldn't find any of that out until well after they had pinched it
On your car, there is wheels, tyres, locking diffs, front bumper with winch, chassis, bulkhead, engine gearbox.
I reckon you have 4-5k in bits on ebay, so plenty of reasons to steel it.
Daan
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Thanks for the replies guys, very encouraging
.I thought 2.25 and 2.5 petrol rods were different but what about the 2.5 na diesel rods, don't suppose they could be used with the 2.5 petrol pistons?
I'd considered picking up another engine but they just aren't about, the only 2 breakers i've found with engines have wanted £300 each. I also wouldn't know the condition and would much rather have a fully rebuilt engine that will last.
Cheers
Dave
You cannott use diesel connecting rods with petrol pistons, the piston pin is much larger on the diesel. 2.25 and 2.5 rods are the same length; the difference is in the piston
Daan
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Fridge's comment does make sense, I had a moment were everything grounded to a halt. There was very much work to do and it seemed endless; at some stage I realized it was make or break time. I decided to get help from some outside sources. I phoned a bloke to finish and paint the panels, I got the chassis and all the metal bits to the blasters, and then either the galvanizers or the zinc platers. 2 weeks later I was actually assembling a car and it was game back on. Main thing was that I needed to realize that I cannot do everything myself.
Another trap people tend to fall for (myself included) is to divert from the plan while you go along; Where the original plan was to rebuild what you have, then you get tempted by an engine conversion, different axles, cage it, rewire it, Some cup holders in the interior would be nice, lets also add some flux capacitors, maybe gravity manipulation works better than an engine and so on.
You know where this is going, you keep getting better ideas, resulting in the build time taking longer and longer and in many cases, never ends. Choose your cake and eat it, is what I have learnt.
Daan
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Yes, this works; you will need to keep the connecting rods from the 2.25 petrol and use 2.5 petrol pistons. You also need to pull a core plug in the oil gallery, so the chain gets lubricated. starter and flywheel as per td engine, and block the oil feed for the turbo. Camshaft can stay as per td, the ingnition does fit to this as well.
Mine worked very well this way for a number of years, good power , running on lpg.
Daan
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The camel trophy cars were mostly build at safety devices; Land rover supplied bare vehicles in camel colour, than safety devices added cage, roofrack and winch bumpers. As mentioned, the roofrack is heavy, and I do wonder what it actually needed to carry.
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I think your (and others) problem is too many projects. your series 3 appears to get all the attention about all the time; no wonder the series 2 isn't getting the attention it needs. Still doing with only 1 landy and use a eurobx to get to work. And not spending enough time on that 1 landy!
Daan
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Ok so I took a lump of metal and set it vertical with an angle finder then with a 90 degree angle measured best I could to the middle of the top swivel housing, middle of the bottom swivel housing, marked where the square was at both places on the vertical bit of metal and measured that then used a bit of maths to calculate that the top swivel is behind the bottom swivel (ie leaning back) by about 5 degrees.
Problem is I don't know what's good and bad!
I think that will work fine.
Daan
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Prop angle looked pretty good as it was, but have you measured castor?
Daan
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The dutch land rover club mentions that the car has to be 'MOT worthy', which probably is a good term for what you describe. I bet most challenge trucks are not mot'ed, so demanding an MOT is not going to help you. How to stop the wrecks turning up is a more difficult question; but maybe if one turns up you're going to have to turn them down and put some pictures up your website to clarify what a £500 scrapper actually looks like. ie this is allowed in and this isn't.
I reckon....
Daan
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I think the problem is that the criminal justice system is based on the threat of taking away something you value - be it money or freedom. If you're in a position where you don't think you have much of value - and maybe don't value your freedom then there isn't a disincentive regardless of the penalty. The risk / reward ratio looks more favorable.
I think what is required is a different kind of penalty. Something like community service (or public flogging
). Something that involves a bit of public humiliation. However, I think the public, or perhaps more accurately the tabloid press wants 'revenge' - and things like community service are viewed as a soft touch. Thus it will probably never happen!Si
I dont agree with that; I think any thief believes he/she will never get caught and therefore the penalty is irrelevant. In the case of car theft, this is sadly true l; most cars aren't found and therefore the thieves will have got away with it. Even if a thief gets caught once, there is probably not enough evidence to prove he/she did any other thefts, so he will get away with those.
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One of the questions on the form for the SVA was the max speed of the vehicle. I filled in 70 MPH, as this is the max legal speed and this allows you to fit just about any tyre in the future.
Not sure if the IVA is asking this as well, but a point to consider.
Daan
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Thats just showing off!
Lovely job.
Daan
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Big question is whether you go for a commercial test or a normal car test; if it is a commercial, you dont need the sharp projections regulations, and the 200 page manual becomes a 10 page manual. Commercial cars have 2 or 3 front seats and a flat floor in the back.
In my opinion, the 'taking bits of for the test' thing is a bit flawed, as your car only complies on the day of the test, and you wont be driving the car that VOSA agreed to be legal.
Out of interest, which modifications are you doing to need an IVA test?
Daan
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Thanks I'll have a look at that but I don't think moving it to the back of the flange would be enough, a stepped disc maybe.
An Astra (I think MK2) front disc fits to the flange, you just need to drill 4 holes for the propshaft.
Daan
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fitting a Salisbury front and I will not be drilling that. The cranked and castor corrected fronts will aid in suspension movement (as it's not maxing out the bush already) and help a little retaining a slightly better turning circle which is valuable in a 110 lol. Those two factors are worth it to me but if there all as bad as they used to be ill be sticking with the lr arms.
cant see them making any difference on suspension movement or turning circle. If any, they create more problems, because you propshaft angles become wrong, and your draglink gets lower to the ground, both bad news. I never bothered with them for that reason.
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Why dont you move the engine crossmember further backwards and avoid the intermediate bearing? I am not a fan of those I must admit.
Daan
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I tell you what I'd really like .... A forum MUG - for brews in the garage, and maybe one for work.
Perhaps with something like the Land Rover oval (in blue) - but with 'LR4X4.COM' in it ...
Thats not a bad idea.
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Well, that's what you get for trying to do business with the Dutch...
viscious.....
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Land Rover red/white are pretty good for a lot of applications or red/yellow if you want a bit softer, both around 17 inches free length, red/white are 170lb/in, red/yellow are slightly longer (1/4 inch or so) and rated at 150lb/in
Red/White are often used to give around a 2 inch lift when used on the front of a standard 90, originally fitted to the rear of Range Rovers.
Red/Yellow were fitted to the front of diesel Range Rovera and Discoveries and the rear or Range Rovers.
This is what I run on the rear, I think they are a bit light for the front, but it depends on the weight of your car. HD is to be avoided, as they are rated higher, and therefore have less travel. I'd say settle for the correct poundage (in your case the softest you feel happy with, and worry about the ride height later.
Daaan
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The test is intended to represent what the arm will see during axle rotation ie acceleration / braking. It only considers this one action, nothing else. The chassis end is rigidly fixed, the green arrows represent a rigid fixing in all planes. There is an up force applied to one bush and a down force applied to the other. It's not a swivel joint as the force applied to both axle joints are the same however the end one has a greater distance so it would result in continual rotation. All of the forces are applied in the same plane so in the perfect world of a computer it would see no rotation of the arm so a swivel is not required axially. If I wanted the computer to look at true real world all in one go situation I would have to add something to represent the resistance of the bush on the arm, the ground, the spring and the relation the chassis creates between the spring and the bush that holds the arm, the acceleration etc etc. There would be loads of variables leading to uncertainty and the computer would die trying to calculate it. For example it can't do plastic deformation, the calculations just run away exponentially until the computer gives up or crashes.
This is a simplification intended to look at one situation and if the same criteria are applied to each design you get a feel for stronger / weaker, add it a bit here, take a bit off there etc.
There is a high stress point at the bottom of the arc between the bushes which I don't feel is 100% valid as the two bushes are rigidly fixed together so I would expect some resistance to help counteract this, there is also one underneath which you cant see at the curve where the steering arm goes under which is where it was pointed out by Bowie that QT have reinforced theirs. The problem of high stress points like this is that it stretches the colour scale and smaller changes in stress like along the arm become less noticeable in the colour change. You can put probes at points to try to get readings so I could to that to see how things change along the arm?
I was always taught with computer analysis of any sort know the answer first then use the computer to confirm it, I'm not doing that so I can't be 100% certain it's calculating it right, however I have been and measured a QT arm to see how their proven dimensions compare to try give me some confidence.
Does that make sense or just twoddle?
I personally would put a swivel at the chassis end and restrain the front bolt from going up and down (but not restrain it completely) and put an upward force on the 2nd bolt. This would be pretty representative to what happens. I am not trying to cut holes in your work, hell you're one of the first persons that actually brings FEA to to the table at LR4x4, but if you are going to bring some science into it, then make it representative i'd say.
Daan
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10th Anniversary Clothing Logo
in International Forum
Posted
Cant we ask michelle?
Oh, I think we should have it bonnet up.
Daan