Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I know that, but still. Cheap and easy is hard to beat, is how I would summarize the last 5 pages.
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The best bit is that the original poster is questioning the choice of a TDI engine in a land rover. But what lurks under the bonnet of his own land rover? Makes those 5 pages a bit more pointless!
Sorry, going now...
Daan
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Second to what wood-gee mentioned: non insulated terminals with the correct crimp are miles better than insulated ones. I use heat shrink on them afterwards for a neat finish. Heat shrink I used on the entire loom, only disadvantage is that adding a wire later is not possible.
Daan
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Yes it is. John foers produced two mini based kit cars the nomad and the gecko both land rover esk before he went on to build the mk1 ibex (land rover based).
Mike
Ok, interesting. Did you put a bid in?
Daan
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Is this the predecessor of the foers ibex?
Daan
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I think that's the 3rd time thats been for sale. Someone somewhere must have the determenation to get on with it.
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Low down torque, fuel consumption and oh yes fuel consumption. That turbo whine I like and it doesn't mind getting wet. This thread is now going to the good old diesel vs. petrol debate. The conversion cost can potentially be ignored, because I dont think you can get a minter of an engine for nothing, regardless of which fuel you use. I have had a 2.25 petrol, than a 2.5 petrol, with 9:1 compression ratio and double chock webber, later powered on LPG. Now 300 tdi, all good engines, but that TDI is the best by miles for what I want. Saying you are doing little miles can make a difference, but I know very few people who take their petrol powered landrover to wales, or abroad, or anywhere far (except fridge), but loads with diesel engines. Those fuel consumption figures in the original post are just too good to be true, sorry , i just can't see it.
Daan
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For that money you could just buy it and weigh in the scaffolding. Oh hang on its 12K!
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Not really, this was about 20 years ago, and I probably would do it differently now. The shock was clamped to a bracket that bolted to the flange that holds the swivel on (in double shear). And there were 2 angle sections going up from the chassis on each side to hold a u channel (that you see sitting behind the radiator) to which the shocks were bolted.
Daan
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On the vent flap; I lost about 3 number plates in mudholes before I did this
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Q plate used to mean high Insurance but probably ok now as its all expensive!
£229 a year at flux. The amount of time, talk and bandwidth people have spend to avoid iva and a Q still amazes me. Just bite the bullet and be legal, it really is not that difficult.
Daan
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'cept most people on this forum of course. but then we're not normal....
Correct conclusion. It helps that we can just lie under our cars, where with most normal cars you can't.
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Back then you told them what you had built and they basically just registered it for a small fee. It's one of the reasons I don't understand why A, so many incorrectly registered and illegal cars are out there. And B, why people have so much of an issue with q plates to me q plate means most likely fully legal modified car that a copper and vosa will ignore. (i've had more issues in age related plate cars than q plates).
Mike
The voice of reason....
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Ok, dave, you're in!
Daan
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Chaps,
I have organised a tour to the land rover factory on friday 23rd of october for the defender celebration tour. Someone had to pull out, so I have a ticket going spare. it is short notice, but it is available if you want it. cost is £45 from landrover, time 9-12 am in Solihull. Let me know soon, I will also put this on facebook.
Daan
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Reason ink cartridges work I think is that people change them their selfes and don't want to get their hands dirty in an office. With a car, you take it for a service, were you pay people to get their hands dirty regardless. Hardly any normal person changes oil on their car anymore these days.
Daan
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Cool, share your experiences with us, once it runs. I have considered teflon plates in between the leafs, but never got round to it. Grease works, but obviously only for so long as it attracts dirt and so on. So thats another consideration.
Something else I did consider is tophat spring plates. This makes the u-bolts les sticking out, so less hinderance offroad.
Like these:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DEAV-WIYP.html
Daan
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The shocks at the rear were standard fit, I cant quite remember wether they were rears or fronts, but one of them is longer, and that is what I fitted. I also had to cut the wheel boxes at the top to clear on full bump (with 255/85/16 Bfgoodrich mud terrains).
The springs at the rear were indeed standard. The standard springs are much more tune able than the parabolics. Another rear spring to consider is the lwb station car ones. They are progressive, so the further you travel upwards, the more leafs are working.
Daan
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I found a few pictures of my old leaf spring setup, so for completeness, I thought I share:
Basically, I was running standard petrol s3 swb springs. I took them all apart, removed the rust and assembled them together with grease. This made the ride and articulation miles better. At the front, because of the short length of the leaves, they were just too stiff. I removed the longest leaf without eyes to make them softer. This makes them way too soft, so I added a coilover type shock absorber, being a a koni load leveler, on top of the axle, with a custom mount to the chassis. This made the suspension work much better. It was under damped, but the articulation was near coilspring level. This was in the days before we had parabolics available to us, and I had no money to spend (student!). The shackles were standard. This whole revolver shackle idea looks a bit wobbly to me, so I never bothered. I later converted to coils, but the leaf sprung setup has done me proud.
Pics:
You can see the coilover shock and the frame behind the radiator to support them
Articulation, which was pretty well balanced between front and rear.Daan -
That prop angle is far better then mine. I have a standard coil setup so I'm wondering if I did clock the rear axle say about 10mm, will I have clock the center A arm joint or would a wide angle joint be sufficient?
Todd.
Problem is that you have to maintain the same u/j angle at the box end and the diff end. so you can either run the diff horizontal (z config) or point it upwards so far that the angle of both u/js is the same (w config, like the front axle). Just move the nose up 10 mm is going to introduce a vibration, so it would have to be more than that. Maybe try a longer a-frame (move the balljoint holder one hole and see what that does, before you start fabricating).
Daan
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The endresult would be the same with regards to propangles. Bear in mind that the radius arm is longer than the standard rear arm, meaning that the fual tank and mount are very tight for space. even more with d2 arms.My prop angle:
rear prop from a standard s3, lift around 1"
Daan
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I'd say go twice the rated workload of the winch because of snatching. Towing point ideally in line with the chassis rail, so no bending. at the rear, my towing point is in the middle, with 2 diagonals to the chassis rails, so no bending load on the cross member.
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I run the rear axle nose up, like the front. There is virtually no prop angle. I am running radius arms though, which means the axle rotates the right way on bump and extension. Problem with the a frame setup is that the axle doesn't rotate this way. You still can get the prop angles correct (using the w style rather than the Z style), but it wont be correct on anything other than rideheight.
Daan
Am I missing something?
in International Forum
Posted
I don't think there is any reason to hate because people going another way. There is 5 defenders in the car park where I work, not one has ever been used in the mud. Does that make them any worse than people that do? It is all about what it could do, an image thing, and that doesn't mean you actually have to get muddy, just the fact that you could do it is for most people enough.
Landrover themselves started this trend, by offering the defender to a more demanding group; alloy wheels, electric wind down windows, styling versions like the Autobiography. The fact that some people spend the price of a house on their defender is not new either; some offroaders have been spending these kinds of money as well, just for a different purpose. Hating people because they spend more money than you is a bit short sighted, Nigel. I have come to the conclusion that a lot of people that spend more money than I do often is only the result of having more credit cards than I do, rather than more money. That's different altogether!
So as quit rightly has been mentioned, if an owner of a bling defender wants to join, then let him/her. We all like the same car, just use it for a different purpose.
Daan