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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

    80-series axles onto RRC

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    So the final design, 8.3kg each, gues it'll have to do, guess I could go thinner, that's 20mm, but I'm worried if its too thin it'll buckle if I drive into something. Guess I could estimate it based on the car hitting something at 20mph or whatever? Or go thinner but weld a web around the edge to make it an I section... but that's more work :angry2:

    looks like I will need to get a good weld at the front :blink: Lets see what price the laser cutter comes up with? Anyone see any obvious errors?

    radius%20arm%20assy_zpsdyl8lx3h.jpg

    radius%20arm_zpsnvzry5np.jpg

    What is the red arrow doing there? is that were you react the forces? it should be at the chassis end. Or am i getting it wrong? I personally would get 2 thinnish, say 5 mm plates cut and create a box section. I would also taper them towards the chassis end, like the landrover ones. at the moment it is clear where it will brake, around the speedhole nearest to the axle.

    From memory, the old rangerover radius arm is 10kg, the newer defender one is 10.5 kg.

    Daan

    Best roof type for competion/ road tax implication

    in Competing in Land Rovers

    Posted

    I have replaced the glass with plastic, and still smashed it several times. Also, if you go with plastic, it will need replacing regularly because of scratching. That all said, due to visibility reasons, I wouldn't want it any other way.

    If it is for offroad only, surely a truck cab is better, just a lot less practical for anything else. Many people also cut off the back from the hard top, creating a truck cab this way.

    Daan

    Motivating factors?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Almost three solid days number crunching has about wrecked my head!

    Unlike you lucky folks in the uk donor cars just don't come up in the sub €500 price bracket, watching all the second hand sites for sensible donors these last three weeks has not yet seen a sub €2K car, even burnt out wrecks are in the +€1000 range :o everything has been ultra high miles too, so basically spending money just to buy something I'm going to have to spend even more on, looked over buying donor out the uk but by the time euro is converted to sterling and I either went to drive it back or got it shipped it just keeps getting more costly.

    This is really looking like we are going to be rebuilding what we have, by the time donor is bought stripped, any and all new custom parts fabbed made and modified, the costs could spiral in a rather out of control way :(

    Not talking myself out of a repower just doing some serious sums in a rather objective manner, not as enjoyable as fantasizing and day dreaming but necessary to stop me making a mistake of epic proportions.

    That's the conclusion I got to, especially in the country you currently reside in. The problem is that lhd cars are in massive demand in eastern europe, which makes any second hand car or parts big bucks. To the point that a new car actually makes sense. over here, because of rhd, most used cars stay on the island, hence cost not a lot.

    In the interest of saving you hassle, why not this:

    http://turner-engineering.co.uk/html/strippedengines.html

    Also, have you considered the TGV? (2.8 version of the tdi). They are being imported in holland I believe.

    Daan

    Motivating factors?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Motivating factors could be resale worth? I dont think any of the conversions are going to help in that department, but cost plenty of dosh. Also, Considering the problem being a knackered engine, any of the above is either going to be out of a lorry, a high mile merc or a rangy that either has a slipped liner or is about to have one. What I am saying here is that you are about to spend a lot of dough for a conversion, and should really think about a rebuild or new engine (and gearbox) to go in.

    So I'd say rebuild what you have or buy a crate LS if you want petrol.

    Daan

    Vehicle Wiring Regulations for Kits?

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    speedo has to be 10% accurate, and can only present a speed higher than the vehicle speed. The rest of the wiring is common sense; on an IVA they do loke at the state of the wiring from a safety point of view. I had a few unused wires in my loom that I just cut off; One point of failure was an exposed wire that might short on the bodywork (it was not live, but still a failure).

    Your pulse counter you can replace for a cable setup on a disco box.

    Daan

    Weighing bits of Land Rover

    in Tools and Fabrication

    Posted

    I guess if you could draw the chassis fully in solidworks or inventor you may be able to carry out a stress analysis and turn the chassis into Swiss cheese (or build your own with your own cnc plasma)

    Radius arms may be one area, and maybe A frame sections too

    One area that I thought about having a go at was some fully ally doors (series style copy) as the push button handle ones on a fender are crackers (well I was surprised when I first took one off anyway)

    The rest of it if you go rag top I can't see unless you're talking major custom fabrication ... Swivel housings or complete different axle solution (independent?)

    To be honest, the weight in a landy chassis is mainly in the crossmembers, I removed 30 kg from my chassis by replacing the crossmembers with 2mm sections, like the main rails. Series doors is what everyone already uses. The push button jobbies wouldn't last 5 minutes offroad!

    I like the russian approach as they are not re designing the car or the suspension, as the regulations dont allow it. They are much more restricted than we are here. They do things like titanium bolts, aluminium brake calipers, aluminium wheels (not those superheavy factory ones obviously). The car is basically a standard defender, but lighter.

    On the chassis front, Richards built the chassis for the gigglepin racer, they shaved 40KG off the weight by going mad with holes and a dimple die!

    As the car will be an all rounder, used on the road as well as long distance, I'll probably be staying with the push button doors so I can wind the windows down.

    The axles as a whole will be a bit heavier than standard, but that's for reliability, and only about 5kg per axle over a standard one.

    I doubt they achieved 40 kg by just cutting some holes. Cutting holes at the bottom is a bad idea in my opinion, jim already tore the a frame crossmember of the chassis, so I think it is a bit flawed.

    Suspension bushes

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    That still does not mean that metalastik and genuine are the same. The genuine ones have to comply to a spec, where as the oem metalastic ones don't. This conversation has been going around for ages on this forum. The outcome is that I still would go genuine. (just replaced OEM ones that lasted very few miles, although offroad miles.).

    Daan

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