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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

  1. Curious why so many feel weight is so important?

    Must admit when I rebuilt my axles I was very surprised in the weight of a fully dressed axle?

    Plus galv chassis was well in excess of what the oem one was (I could lift the oem one (just) but the galv one I tried and failed)

    Problem is I could not see what could be done to reduce the weight of these three key major components (please someone don't suggest turning the chassis into Swiss cheese!!! ...there was a chassis in LRO looking like Swiss cheese)

    Rotational inertia that is another matter and I agree 100% but non rotational components I remain unconvinced that it's that significant an issue, but as the stapline below always willing to learn another viewpoint

    The thing I found with the 90 was that at certain speeds the front end seemed to get a bit light, and in part I think that I blamed on the swing away spare wheel plus a wolf rim overhang and that was with a weight of ~1775kg (soft top 90) and I did wonder if relocating the spare to the bonnet would have improved the situation?

    In my opinion, weight should be top of anyones list. Yes a landrover axle is so heavy, it bends light. Is that a reason to add more? Commonly, people like to fit alloys to a defender these days, for reasons of it looking racey? Did anyone ever compare the weight of alloy wheels with steel? If you did, you would think twice about fitting them. Interesting you mention the chassis; most galvanized chassis are 3 mm thick, rather than 2 mm as standard> 50% heavier. At least a marsland chassis is using a standard chassis to begin with, so should be lighter. And if you can weigh it, you know where you stand.

    It is an almost thankless task to try to make people understand this, I must admit. Loads of people have their engines tuned, to give, say 10% more power. But I know very few who try to remove 10% from the cars weight. The last solution is much better and more reliable.

    Just some idle mumblings...

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  2. If you look on the bay, they have a habit of being offered as 2wd, as the viscous coupling seized up, and it was to expensive to fix it properly. I saw an online guide of a guy who removed everything, including the rr shafts and diff. He fitted the outside cv cages back to the hubs to stop the wheels falling off. If you don't strictly need 4wd, and you can't swallow an expensive repair, its not a bad solution I think.

  3. There are 2 options with this: you either screw them in the bead of the tyre or, you screw them in just behind the bead to stop the bead popping of the rim. This used to be done with race cars and the carting crowd still do it. Usually tapped holes in the alloy wheel for bolts with a sealing washer. The last option obviously does not stop the tyre rotating on the rim, but it means you don't damage the tyre. sealing does look like challenge with both methods!

    As an aside, has anyone tried glueing the tyres to the rim? This seems to get used in the States and Russia with reasonable results.

    Daan

  4. Excuse my ignorance - but is it not worth keeping a one way water trap ? If only for rain water ?

    I haven't found a reliable way of letting water out without letting water in. But rainwater that is in there just evaporates and enters the engine as vapour. no problem with that.

    @Daan: no heating?

    I found an alu filter (think it's a green filter) with a 2.5" inch at one side and 85mm at the other side. My friend milled me a reducer so problem solved until the first test drive

    Thanks for reactions

    no heating. I have been using aftermarket filters in the past, but have come back to a standard, genuine paperfilter, as big as you can package and I believe that is best. As mentioned, I think the 2.5" wouldn't be my choice.

    Daan

  5. My snorkel lands on the airfilter housing (just behind the header tank):

    P4210231comp.jpg

    I brazed the water dump hole shut and brazed a 200 tdi connection to the 300 tdi air filter cover. close the cover with a good bead of sikaflex, as the o-ring always leaks.

    I wouldn't use the 2.5" snorkel though, I think it is restrictive; the rest of the system is 3" from factory for a reason.

    Daan

  6. No I was in my daily driver just an ordinary rhd car on English plates. I cant explain to you why, but I can also spot a Dutchman from a mile, without speaking to him, so that's why he pulled me. And for a dutch citizen it is a criminal offence to drive a foreign car full stop, so that's the reason. Many dutch have tried to run cars on german plates in the past to dodge tax (well you would, wouldn't you?), so this rule pretty much stopped that. There are (or were) also loads of classic cars with lpg or diesel conversions, that were debatedly tax free (or at least the age of the registration plates were...), but tax free has been stopped also. Then we had the low emission car tax free thing: so 95 gr of c02 or less scored you tax freedom, so half the country ran out to buy a new polo bluemotion or similar. That has been stopped also, you now pay £800 again for one of these. Another loophole was campervan, but that was also stopped. Now virtual all ways of tax avoidance have been tried, a large amount of people has reverted to the ultimate dodge: number plate cloning; it's wrong, but the tax morale has been dented so much that people just stop caring.

    Also did you notice that the fuel price is lower near the border? This is because there is variable duty; the further you go to Germany or Belgium, the cheaper fuel gets. This is to stop fuel stations going out of business, because everyone fills up over the border.

    Daan

  7. I think it has been mentioned here before, but the 2015 Autobiography defender comes with led headlights. It would be good to find out which lights they use and try to track these down. Certainly, if it has a land rover part number, I think you have a case of using them on any defender.

    After reading all the 6 pages of headlight chat, I think I am going to get myself a set of osram night breakers for my daily driver; the standard lighting on this is garbage!

    Daan

  8. I would buy 3 for this reason or 2 sets, just like I do with sealed headlights. You are going to need a spare one day, just when you have been green laning in scotland and you need to drive home at night. Speaking of which, are they sealed units, or is the bulb a removable item? Also, is the lens plastic or glass? My headlights have lost the fight with a tree on a few occasions, and if these are plastic, it would tempt my interest. It is not on my list at the moment, but it might be one day.

    Daan

  9. If you start messing with a petrol engine, compression ratio is the first thing I would look at; 8:1 is standard, were the octane number of unleaded fuel these days easily allows 10:1. I build a 2.5 petrol with a 2.25 head (with 2.5 valves), skimmed as much as possible to achieve 9:1 ratio.

    The higher compression ratio will give you better power but also makes it more efficient.

    Daan

  10. 3 MM HE 15 aluminium is what I used for my sump guard, with 1" steel box section in strategic places to brace it. You cant weld or bend he15, but it is stupid strong.

    That said, if you are planning to pay someone to do the work, 1k to spend at mantec seems like a no brainer to me.

    Daan

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