Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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I have never seen one in an offroader myself, not even in Dakar cars, so I wonder if you need them for the events you have in mind.
Just get a nice seat, like a volvo or something.
Daan
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one thing I will say (sorry if someone already mentioned this) is that you have the 11" drums with the twin leading shoes, right? In that case, bleeding is imposible with the standard setup (bleeding nipple at the bottom cylinder?) air gets trapped in the top cylinder. I am not sure about the locking up problem, or the flexis but the bleeding I used to do by removing the backplate, rotate it untill the bleed nipple is at the highest point, bleed, then refit. You can also re route the pipe to the bottom cylinder first,then to the top.
Daan
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I wouldn't start a war, like some suggest, because it will go from bad to worse; I know someone who got done for having an untaxed vehicle on the road, he only parked it outside of his garage for one hour and his neighbour phoned the tax authority. That kind of thing.
Some people asociate working on cars with anti social behaviour and everything that goes with it. I am not too bad, do most of the work in the garage. Someone also moved in our street who makes a lot more noise than me, and during weekdays also-he makes me look good!
Daan
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Lee, I presume this initiative is in some way a more modern version of the Camel trophy and the G4 Challenge. are these challenges also open to the public like the Camel trophy and G4 used to be?
Daan
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No spammer, Lee has asked us and we agreed. Enjoy....
Daan
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You need more damping on the front, because there is more weight. but if you use the OME at the rear in the angled position, you will end up with less damping anyway. Dual shocks, you can do, it all depends how fast you want to go. But if you think you need it, I would consider going fox or king or similar.
Daan
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OME, big difference from Pro comp, in price, but also in damping; You get what you pay for basically.
Daan
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at that width of tyre, I would stay with an 8" rim, as you will experience more wandering while cornering with a 7" rim.
Daan
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I dont think you can compare the two; If you buy something new it is more about depreciation, how much will I loose if I sell it in 5 years time. Also, it is guaranteed for 3 (?) years, so no hassle. plus you can have it next week. If it is a project, you spend a lot of time in it and you probably want to keep it. It will be more of a personal thing. you might get something decent on the road with a galvanised chassis and bulkhead for half the price of a new car, but it would take at least a year (judging my own speed) before you can use it, and as mentioned, lots of little details will be secondhand and prone to go wrong. A good middleroad could be an accident damaged 1 year old car or something like that.
Recently I bought a 1 year old car at an auction (ex lease), spending 10k on a car that was 15k new. still 2 years waranty left and 25 k on the clock. I reckon that is the most cost effective way to buy a good reliable car. It is the depreciation that puts me off buying new.
Daan
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Offsets are measured from the centre point of the wheel to the mounting face where it bolts to the hub, I know it's very confusing!
It can be a bit confusing, if you look at aragorns picture, the bigger the offset, the narrower the track is going to be. smaller offset will give a wider track, 0 mm will make your wheels stick out of the arches, depending on how wide the tyres are. Negative offset means it will be even wider.
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Ok, Dan, I cannot help with answers, but I have 3 more questions:
1. Have you now decided to keep the G-wagon?
2. Do you have to much time on your hands?
3. was the previous owner gay?
Daan
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You need to be a bit more specific in what you want to do. A popular choice is the Modular wheel, which has an offset of 8mm. From a disco wheel with 33 mm offset, this will move the tyre out 25 mm. It is a bit pointless measuring the outer bead to the nave plate alone because where your tyre sits depends on the position of the inner bead as well.
So what tyres are you trying to fit to which car is what we need to know basically.
Daan
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Coming along well. Whats your take on the plastic endtanks on radiators in general? I know the tdi rads weigh a ton in standard form, but there is a plastic endcap version available as well. Would you risk swapping it for a plastic version at the expense of the potential split danger?
Daan
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I dont think the spiralox will fit in that recess. I never worked out what the recess was for, or why there was a spiralox. I do remember it sitting outside as a spacer. if memory serves me right. It is a long time ago though.
Daan
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These guys are good for tubes:
http://www.allterraintyres.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1095_1282
daan
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no Seal under the wing nut shown in the parts page here http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/p/31/53450/
Brit-car show the seal only comes with the wing nut http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xSearch=&xProd=126505&xSec=5498¤cy=8
see page 564 item 4 in http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/6_vehicle_controls_brakes_fuel_air_p472-579.pdf it states wing nut & gasket = NRC9239,
I got the number on page 564, but as you say, you google the number, and it is only the nut.
200 tdi shows the same number, TD shows RRC3746 for the o-ring. Does anyone if the TD filter housing has the same diameter?
It seems, I need to measure the o-ring and find a similar size. Anyone must have had this problem?
Daan
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Hi, i am after the o-ring that is fitted to the 300 tdi airfilter housing. I thought it came with the filter, but it doesn't. According to the book, it shows NRC9239, but that is only the wingnut to hold the cover on (according to google) .
Is the o-ring available through the usual channels, or does anyone have a suitable replacement no. from an o-ring guru?
Daan
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From that picture, you have landrover wheels that are not supposed to be run tubeless (and I certainly wouldn't), and you need 15 mm valves.
Daan
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I reckon if you try to stop rotating the hinge, you have about a metre of leverage in the bonnet, so you just push hard and unroll the rolled hinge on the bulkhead. Cant you redesign the hinge, so that you have to rotate it further, so that you need to unbolt the hinge to take the bonnet of? Then use shear bolts to fit the hinges.
Daan
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I am sure it will survive a nuke attack! Looking good.
Daan
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Yeah i was probably massively over exaggerating at 900kg, i shall have to get a weighing scales out!
I suggest weighing them first before everyone starts having a go - then please add them to the weight thread for reference. I think you dont have a bad choice when it comes to axles - they will spin 40's quite happily while allowing you to compete on events were portals are not allowed. There are options to make these axles lighter at a later date; The Currie Rockjock allows you to fit the internals to an aluminium housing, while increasing groundclearance.
Keep the updates coming!
Daan
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Interesting, I have looked at one of them before I settled on my current winch, but I was told that the loadrating on them is pretty low (2 tonnes or thereabouts from memory), so that put me of that idea. I cant speak from experience though, so interested to seehow you get on.
Daan
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looking good, Tuko. How much distance have you got between the sump and the guard?
Daan
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Hi Zus, thanks for the links, hows live treating you these days?
Daan
Which suspension seats in a truck cab?
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
looks good, but do you fancy dunking it to bonnet level in water? Volvo 740 seats are the nuts, I dont even bother with covers, just keep washing them with a hose untill you get clean water out of the bottom.
Why make it complicated and expensive?
Daan