Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Jon,
Are you on modular wheels? In that case, you probably bought 0mm ofset ones, rather than the common 8mm offset ones. I am having the same problem, I did wonder why they stuck out, as the sums didn't add up. When I measured the wheels, they turned out to be the 0mm offset jobbies. I have used conveyer belt strips to move the eyebrows outboard in the past, but it looked a bit getto. Now changing the wheels. The problem with the wider eye brows is that they aren't very flexible, I heard of someone having them at an event, and by the time he finished, he had one half of one eyebrow left.
Daan
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Is it me or do those A-pillars look massive?
Daan
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In some countries they cut of the hand which you used trying to steal the item....
Daan
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I dont see the loctiting or welding the nuts actually help: it means you shear the bolt imediately, rather than having to wind it all the way out, which is actually a lot quicker.
I have a question for Simon about the steering lock though: have you tried to break the lock by turning the steering wheel? I know that the dutch drug addicts tend to take cars that havent locked the wheel (not rotated it till it locks), put their foot in one of the spokes and kick it through the locking position to break the lock. Is this possible with the defender column, or is anything else breaking?
Daan
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nice one, keep the updates coming.
Daan
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Nige, can you bring me one of your airfilters?
Daan
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I don't agree Daan.I believe your thinking is discounting the swinging shackle. The ladder bar or radiuus arm with swinging shackle isn't forcing the axle to do anything. Torque reaction is forcing the axle housing to rotate around the axle shafts. The ladder bar/RA is merely resisting that rotation. The natural movement of the axle with arched springs is actually up and rearward, down and forward, and that is what the swinging shackle will accomodate.
I am not discounting the shackle, the shackle will allow movement of the axle backwards and forwards, with a slight up and down movement as a result.
But the ladder is cannot move up and own. It can only rotate around the shackle mounted bush, rotating the axle with it. While this does give it the anti dive/tramp forces you are mentioning, it introduces a lot of springwrap, which was what we were trying to get away from.
Daan
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problem with the ladder bar is that the S shaping of the springs is happening all the time while cycling through the suspension travel. You force the axle to rotate around one point, were as the natural movement of the axle is just up and down. I believe the ladder idea is therefore fundamentally flawed, regardless of how many people are using it. That front crossmember will easily take the loads of a toplink, as long as it is sound.
Daan
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does anyone know how a koni compares to OME, with regards to the firmness? I went from procomp to OME for the front, this gave much more control in cornering, but slightly firmer. I now need a shock for the rear which is a bit firmer than Procomp, but less firm then OME. I use pin to pin at the rear, but in vertical position.
Daan
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Hi Ross, Can the Shire landrover club become an invited club? I understand it is under MSA rules. Does this mean you need an MSA license? Also, 'very aggressive tyres are discouraged'. Are Simex tyres classed as very aggressive? Or is it dumper tyres that are refered to?
Cheers,
Daan
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Have looked at it, but will give it a mis. There is more to live than competing these days, for me anyway! Are you codriving Philon again?
Daan
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8mm wall cds
I thought you had taken to lightweight construction these days?
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Hi Ross,
What do you need in terms of navigational equipment, GPS or terratrip etc.?
Daan
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hmm, reading this again, it looks like sorens solution. I had the impression from the first time I read it, that you wanted to connect to the chassis bush were the shackle goes through.
The problem with sorens solution is axle wrap: you force the axle to rotate around the rear springbolt, causing the front part of the leafspring to bend a lot and the rear part of the spring not at all. Plus a lot of axle rotation.
Daan
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I think the arms going backwards would still cause the diff to rotate up, because the axle moves backwards when it moves up (with shackles at the back). I would go for a single arm from the top of the diff going forward to the front crossmember, forming a paralellogram with the springs.
Daan
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Do you think it would be worth making some of these? To go with the Range Rover L322 wishbone joints.
I'd figured on an M27 x 1.5mm pitch thread on the boss as it's a (fairly) standard, easy to obtain size for taps, lock nuts etc.
I'm guessing they would cost about £25 - if I ordered about 100 off. That would give you a joint with more offset than a Jonny Joint for less than half the money?
Having played with them a bit - I'm nothing but impressed with the design & construction. They look to me like an ideal choice for some suspension components - and being a standard LR part, easy to find spares!
Further to my last post, the patterned joints seem to max out at exactly the same angle as the LR Genuine ones. They look like the same part!
Si
I think that could be a good seller. Could you also do a version without the threaded bit, so you could weld them to a tube?
Daan
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if you go for a defender lt77S (latest version), the strength is pretty much the same as a 380, with the length you need. It fits if you use a 200tdi or 2.5d back plate. I find for offroad use, having reverse next to 1st and 2nd gear a big plus.
Daan
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-21863035
I bet no one did it....
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You wouldn't need a control for the intercooler, just run it all the time, but then what is the point of going electric?
Daan
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what do you think to achieve?
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Hi Dave, thanks for the honest reply. I had noticed you are no longer producing them, is this a result of the financial climate?
Daan
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I guess it'll also depend on what size / width tyres you've got ?
Am i correct in guessing that a wolf wheel is 6.5" wide. But you've got a beadlock on the outer edge, so it's now approx 7" wide (1/2" (12mm) for the edge). It would also now change the offset from +20 to +26mm. (i.e. 12mm / 2 = +6mm)
Have i done that right ?
It would have changed from 20.6 - 6 = 14.6
So the modulars make the track 6.6 wider per side than the beadlockered wolfs. The outer edge of the modulars are 19.3 mm further outboard, because they are wider. I reckon.
Daan
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isn't that the peugeot engine which is in the pug 406? And a few other cars as well. Should be fairly easy to get I imagine.
Daan
Tirfor Winch or Bumper Winch for Self Recovery
in Getting out and about
Posted
90 percent of the time, 'stuck' means you are on the verge of driving out, so the lighter Tirfor might be ok. However, one problem you have is that extracting a car is a 2 man operation. If you are alone, and you get stuck, you need one person to drive the car and one person to work the winch. If you are alone, you are into dragging a dead car with the tirfor, which is an awful lot harder. I suppose you could put it in 1 low and leave it running in tickover, and run into the car when it moves again, but I would never suggest that on a public forum....
Daan