Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Rimmer bros also did what they could to be as awkward and arrogant as possible.
To you or to bilstein?
Daan
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Back to work on the steering,
The arms are 30mm thick en8b, the kingpins are en24t they are center drilled right through as a grease path to lubricate the swivel bearings.
I still have to drill the tapers for the track rod ends, and maybe take a little weight out of them somewhere!
Those steering arms are probably the only thing that survives a nuclear attack, they bend light! which balljoints are you using?
Daan
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the comment about silly scrub radiusses is true, but I looked at KOH pictures and virtually every car with custom build axles still had a big scrub radius. I dont understand it, maybe to package the steering arm, but it looks wrong to me. Maybe there is a reason which I dont understand. yet.
Daan
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I reckon it will work ok, with the bearing setup in your swivel and take a big load of the casing. The only thing I can see is that with a coilover, you should start thinking about a bearing under the springplatform, or otherwise you are trying to rotate the springplatform on its thread. On rallycars, with a front Mcpherson, a bearing is a common thing to have (usually a needle bearing, the shape of the springlocation face) , but mostly they are not sealed and are throw away items. And they are spendy.
Daan
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What is the difference between KING and FOX out of interest? Is there anything in it, price/quality wise? They look very similar, like one was copied from the other, but which one is a copy of which?
Daan
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Hi, i believe there is an option of a box with disco 2 internals which bolts on the chassis rail, however, this has no provision for the panhard rod mount. I also think that the droparm fouls something. also, the spline of the uj is different. It basically needs things sorting out before it works.
Also, although the shaft is bigger, and it is about 25% faster ration, they dont seem to be that reliable. Jim Marsden broke several i believe, and rather than break the shaft it knackers the worm, so the endresult is still no steering. Not a great option IMO, but I dont have a better idea either...
Daan
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much flex at the back, not much at the front:
another one:
High centered, high cofg:
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I think your percieved stabilty is an illusion, you would not belive how truely stable your car could be with totally balenced suspension travel front and rear.
I had radius arms front and rear on my G wagon, i had a about 11" of wheel movement per corner, i lifted wheels a lot but it didn't matter i had lockers, it felt fairly stable and predictable (as a 7 foot tall car can be!) Then i made 3 link setups front and rear and it totally transformed the way it drove, really really stable, climbed much better. the only thing i changed was the link arangement i kept the same springs and shocks.
I think a lot of the problems encountered by landrover owners suffer instability after changing link arrangement, is because in order to get the s**t radius arm setup to flex they run far too soft a spring rate, they continue these springs into the new link system and suffer accordingly.
As an example, the back of my nissan patrol is a very flexy 5 link setup, i run very high poundage springs OME +2" +250kg constant load, i can still flex to the limit of my shocks (about 30" wheel movemant) and i have total stability off road or at 60mph with a trailer on.
This is because the link arangement allows totally free axle movement, and the spriing rates are correct for the (huge) weight of the car.
This setup has allready been tried and tested more than a few times, i think by someone on here has tried it as well, I looked around his truck at kirton once, he said it worked very well off road but had issues under braking on the road, i think he said the bush wear on the central arm was accelerated over normal as well.
I agree with the balanced suspension arrangement, that is what I have found as well on mine, where the springrates are in a 60/40 percentage, similar to the weight distribution. The comment about the radius arms, not to sure: I run these front and rear using the landrover early narrow bushes. I hardly ever wave a wheel in the air, I think it is a brilliant setup. People boast about the 'I have more travel than you' thing, but it is almost always at the rear where it happens, and you see the front axle doing nothing at all. It is more about the static deflection of the springs I reckon, which I aimed at being 50% percent of full travel. It is no ramp king, but works predictable in every situation.
My experience anyway.
Daan
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Sad to hear this, but a sign of the times. I never quite made it to any of these events.
Daan
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Is that not the result of lithium ion batteries exploding? I have been involved with these at some stage and sending them by plane even involved a UN test, which involved dropping it from a great height and a vibration test, after which it still had to work at 90% percent of its capacity.
Any other battery, I cannot see any safety problem, provides it doesnot leak acid.
Daan
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hmm, but these are still the flat plate ones, where the plate cone like buggery once bolted up, isn't it?
I was hoping to see a set of flat rings to weld on, and a set of profiled rings to bolt on, like this:
Daan
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Pushing boundaries as usual. That device I have come across before, maybe Dan can give us some pointers as to how to use it.
Daan
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Perfect. Do you have a weight for them? (rings and bolts etc, all the parts to convert 1 wheel).
Daan
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could you share a picyy with us?
Daan
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The TDI, without a doubt, provided you use the same amount of power. This is why I believe the whole DI idea is a waste of time and effort myself, but that is just my opinion.So, in a 110 say, which would be more economical? a 200 tdi or a 200diDaan
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I did see the pics in dropbox, some interesting failure modes there.
What I think didnt help the failure was the big offset on the wheels, I even saw a wheel spacer, which I consider the work of the devil..... From the picture, the failure was right at the point were the flange ended on the knuckle. This could do with boxing in completely, I reckon, but there is little space for that:
Also, I noticed that the ringgear is not quite 9", but more like 8.8". The americans use a 9" or even a 10" ringgear (wich measured actually 9.5").
That cannot have helped strength, but I presume this is a compromise for it to fit to a landrover casing.
The first failure was actually the diff journal shearing clean in half, from the pictures. I didn't think it would break there.
Anyway, it was a good test for the Force 9, I am not here to slag of the design, I think it is a good product for the price (about half that of a spidertrax setup), so still credit were credit is due. Once the problems are sorted, it will be a good option.
Daan
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those west midlands jobbies are nasty flat plate ones, which i wouldn't use myself. The ones from matt lee are spun and have a rolled edge, and they bottom out, meaning you can do up the bolts properly, without worries of them coming loose. I dont know if the devon ones are from matt lee (I cant see it on the picture and it does not give any info). Matt lee doesn't show it on his website, but I would be looking for the spun versions of beadlock rings.
Daan
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youre still ok on mot I believe. But I also believe this thread is meant to be purely technical, not legal....
Daan
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4) Generally about 1500 PSI though some more, some less - so about the same as normal power steering.
Do we have a figure for the flow and pressure of a standard landrover pump vs a typical hydro steer pump?
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I have fitted the gigglepin cover (made by paul wightman i believe). The beauty of this is that you dont have to cut of the old pan, the procedure is to remove the oil, weld the pan on and refill with oil.
I have in fact cut off the diff pan when I fitted it, because the axle was in bits anyway, but it is not strictly needed. it is very strong, i dont think any of the clamp on ones is strong enough, if you come sliding down a 45 degree hill and stop dead on a rock against the diff protector, you need something very sturdy. The gigglepin one does the job for this.
Daan
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I followed it and wished Jim all the best before he left. I suppose the fact that jim is not on this forum much anymore made people to make comments on devon. I think it is good performance, but clouded by the rules. He was told before hand that he could not win because he has hydro steer. If only he lifted before the end he would have been second and classified. It is all a bit odd in my mind because he passed tech while the organizers knew his car was not legal. They could also have classified him in ultra 4 regulations, than he would have been legal. (but certainly not have been fastest) There is no logic to the whole thing in my mind, both of the organizers and on jims part, it is a pretty basic thing to prepare the car to the rules before setting of to the usa with it.
Still, a cracking drive of jim, I dont take anything away from his achievement.
Daan
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The argument in my head is whether is is worth the complication of neatly fitting a TDi radiator/oil heat exchanger and intercooler only to not really use them...
Dont agree with not using the intercooler, it will make a lot of difference for it running lean. effectively, cooler air means more mass, creating leaner mixture. The more lean the mixture is, the better and efficient it will run. Also, the TDI oil cooling system is very good, with a thermostat i believe, and the turbo heats up the oil much quicker from cold.
Daan
Jeep wrangler build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Remember that your roll centre is the centre of the panhard. Theoretically, the fr centre should be lower than the rr centre, for good handling.
Daan