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Daan

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Posts posted by Daan

  1. Hmm, they fit? I used rubber lined p clips around the tubes from the turret to stop them rubbing against the wheelarch and a gentle modification with landrover tool no1.

    I now have a set of gwyns turrets fitted, however, to make room for an intercooler pipe, and I have done away with the inner wheelarch altogether.

    On a different note, are you doing a buildthread of your truck, looks really tidy job youre doing there. :i-m_so_happy:

    Daan

  2. Tuko, as a first comment, great effort :SVA go away: .

    I did exactly that in Russia, it didn't quite puncture, but effectively blanked off the sif, reducing the oilflow to the oilpump, leading to eventual failure of a main bearing, days later.

    I have since then created a sump with tripple skin (skins from other sumps cut up)and extra ribbing on the inside to increase strength. In hindsight, it wasnt a great job, because the sump is made of 2 thin skins, which is a pain to weld. I did look at an additional guard, but it is pretty close to my PTO shaft and exhaust, so I havent really got on with it, but still might do.

    Daan

  3. I would swap the wheels front to back or change the fronts for a known pair. I would imagine the wheels giving the problem. Maybe your kingpin pre load is too low, but if your wheels would be balanced and straight it still wouldn't happen in the fist place.

    Daan

  4. Daan

    Where did you get that setting please.

    All my Defender books say 0 to 2mm TOE OUT......

    I got that setting from experience. the parralel setting that is. I only used the 1mm setting to explain my method. I set the steering parrallel, as that worked and the tyres wear off straight. Toe out gave it a wandering beheviour (not keen on going straight). According to your figures, thats still in tolerances. I am not for a moment suggesting anyone to use this setup, just sharing my experience.

    Daan

  5. Daan,

    Can you jog my memory with the maths? Parallel is easy, but i need a reminder of my trigonometry to work out the toe in/out with the 2m sections...

    If you go 16", length is 406 mm, on a 2 metre section you can go 4 x 406 = 1625.6 mm. Make 2 marks on both your box sections in front of the car, 1625mm apart. Adjust untill you measure 4mm difference, you now have 1mm toe on your wheels, if that makes sense.

    I go parallel normally, as the tyres wear of straight.

    Daan

  6. Need to ascertain whether the rear axle is bent maybe due to a stub axle etc, or if its straight and simply not running true fore / aft I like the idea of g cramping a couple of straights on the discs as that will tell you something factual .... I'd more than likely knock something up to hold a couple of cheap laser pointers - easy to get them true by reversing them and adjusting out the difference til they are spot on.

    Laser pointers would never last in my workshop. And waaay over the top for what we want. If you use the 2 metre lengths of box secion, you have multiplied the accuracy by a factor 4 or so. I cant think of a more accurate way of doing this. This is even more so when you want to go toe in/or out; 1 mm toe in becomes 4 mm toe in, which is much more accurate to measure with a tape than the usual way.

    Daan

  7. I found having an idea of what's todays/tonight task is has helped and then go do it,

    no more getting into the garage and then spending a hour thinking what to do :unsure:

    Yes, indeed, and more so plan the entire weekend. Shame is that the time you think it takes tends to get doubled up.

    One more tip, if you think of taking time off to spend on the truck: when I got to my 3 year make or break point, I also had 5 days of holiday left. I did think of having a week off, however, you tend to run out of bits after a day or 3 when you do this. Instead, I took off 5 fridays in a row. This allowed me to source bits during the week, which you then can throw at the car on fridays.

    This was very effective, and my employer did like that idea also.

    Daan

  8. My build took 4 years in the end, where I expected it to be done in 1 year. There have been periods were I didn't touch it for a month or so. A make or break point did happen after about the 3 year mark where progress seemed at an all time low. I did release that If I didn't give myself a good kick up the arse, it would never run, and end up being another ebay bargain. Having little progress, also meant I had spend little money, so I had a bit of cash available. This meant I could draft in some professional help. I got a local bodywork guy (farmshed type operation) to pick up all the bodywork and have it sprayed, I send the box and diffs to ashcroft and send the axles and all the little brackets to a local zinc plater. The chassis and a few more bits were galvanized. the bulkhead was welded by a bloke at work, then zincsprayed. Quite a few things I could have done myself, and I had planned to paint them, instead of zinc plated, but just the fact that you can let someone else get on with it while you do other things yourself, make it look you double up your speed. I just had to resign myself that you cannot possibly do everything yourself, because that was exactly the reason why it took so long.

    All this happened in the space of a week.When it got back I had the major bits together pretty quickly. I then moved to a house with a garage. (it was actually a bedsit, shared with 4 others, but there was a major garage). Shortly after I negotiated the exclusive use of this garage. This made a massive difference, being able to work at home. I no longer had to motivate myself to drive for half an hour to go and do some work and then drive back half an hour. 6 months later it ran.

    I dont know you exact situation, but it can be a drag. I wouldn't be drawn too much in a deadline, it ain't work!

    Daan

  9. Croatia trophy now finished, no silverware for the UK teams this time. Jim ripped of a corner from the front axle, Jonathan hambro did a cambelt.

    Good to see paul bass and kim in 7th, philon and James in the top 10.

    Also notable is dutch pairing of peter arends and paul van der linde 6th in a defender 110.

    Paul acketts 11th in adventure.

    I am looking forward to all the stories!

    Final results:

    Trophy:

    1 236 BOROS CSABA MIHALY EIGNER H 23:51:16 JEEP WRANGLER

    2 229 SZILARD MAGYAR KRISZTIAN KOVACS PIPPO H 25:39:16 MERCEDES PROTO

    3 203 ROMAN KULBAK ARKADIY ARONOV RUS 32:09:22 SUZUKI JIMNY

    4 241 ADRIAN BEZZINA JOHN ZAMMIT M 36:56:45 CIAPELLA BUGGY REVOLVER

    5 220 REIDAR SVEEN CHRISTIAN HUSEBY N 40:25:11 LAND ROVER 100 TRAYBACK TD5

    6 228 PETER ARENDS PAUL VAN DER LINDE NL 42:47:47 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 110

    7 230 PAUL BASS KIM NIKOLAJEFF GB/FIN 42:53:21 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 100

    8 239 STEFAN MALLIA ALISTAIR CARUANA M 45:48:34 KAMOY

    9 205 TJARKO OCKERS SYBOLT BRUINSMA NL 46:48:34 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90

    10 208 PHILON PARPOTTAS JAMES TREMBATH GB 47:30:53 LAND ROVER DEFENDER TD5

    11 207 NICK ANDERSON NEVILLE HUDD GB 47:36:49 LAND ROVER DEFENDER TRAY BACK

    12 244 JAREK BEDNAR JIRKA JAROLIMEK CZ 50:09:39 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER BJ 73

    13 246 ROBERT HAJDU VIKTOR SZOPKO H 52:31:53 VW ORANGE SPIDER

    14 201 NICO VAN WINGEN NICO GILLIS B 53:48:41 CAN AM

    15 225 RICHARD EDGINGTON DAVID ROBINS GB 55:34:33 LAND ROVER DEFENDER

    16 240 KENNETH COLEIRO NEVILLE CIANTAR M 55:34:33

    OUT JAMES MARSDEN GARY SMITH GB

    Adventure:

    1 100 VICTOR STOLYARCHUK ALEX SHOKHIN RUS 19:03:08 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 02:53:00

    2 134 ALEKSEY BOGODISTOV VLADIMIR KOTELNIKOV RUS 20:16:12 UAZ 3151 02:57:00

    3 115 ALEXANDER TYURIN NATALIYA TYURINA RUS 24:06:02 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90

    4 101 NICO WIJNALDA JOSKA WIJNALDA NL 30:23:48 JEEP LJ 02:59:00

    5 139 JANEZ KRIVIC KLEMEN KRIVIC SLO 31:04:58 MERCEDES 230 GE 02:34:00

    6 114 IVAN SCEVENELS PETER CLEIREN B 32:14:56 LAND ROVER DEFENDER 03:29:00

    7 119 MARIO BIJELJENČEVIĆ ZDENKO BLAŽEVIĆ BiH 36:18:59 LAND ROVER DEFENDER

    8 133 FRANK DAAMS KOEN VD ELZEN NL 40:29:39 JEEP CJ7

    9 126 STEVEN LAMONT CEDRIC COLLET B 40:44:31 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 04:52:20

    10 107 DIRK VAN DEN ELZEN JORAN BERGMANS NL 41:02:39 JEEP CJ7 08:23:00

    11 136 PAUL ACKETTS TONY JONES GB 41:43:26 LAND ROVER TRAYBACK 04:54:00

    12 103 BAS VAN LOON JEAN-PAUL VD CRUIJSEN NL 44:28:39 JEEP CJ7 09:08:00

    13 118 PASCAL SANDERS YANNICK MUEL B 46:05:39 MERCEDES G 04:32:00

    14 104 LOIC RUFFLE PASCAL ABBAYE F 46:07:32 NISSAN PATROL GR Y60 05:07:00

    15 140 DANIJEL PRIJATELJ ANĐELKO SRABINEC HR 46:59:23 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER LJ70

    16 125 HANS LEEK BOKKE NIJDAM NL 47:43:18 JEEP CJ7

    20 ANDREW LUCAS STEVE LEWIS GB 51:54:49 LAND ROVER DEFENDER

    OUT JONATHAN HAMBRO MARK BIRCH GB

  10. I would stay away from the bottom pipe: if you rip it off when offroad, you lose the contents of both tanks. I would T the return to both tanks, and have a single switchover valve to the suction line. It might return to both tanks while empty, which is not ideal, but it is probably the most reliable. I personally would stay away from the electric pump idea, as it is yet another system on your car that can fail.

    Daan

  11. Turbo, I am seeing that the VWP box actually has an o-ring, which is great, but the fact that it has external connections, makes that a bit pointless I think, or is it? I am planning to convert to blades at some stage, mainly to make sure things work when the water is at centrelevel of the steeringwheel. So far, that has not stopped the electrics working, but I am worried about that. Has anyone devised a way to completely waterproof them?

    Daan

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