Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Yes I have considered and read a lot about the "ackerman issue" and from what I understand as long as I can maintain the toe-in or toe-out there shouldn't be any issues. I have been reading a lot here from the many searches and it appears than several members of this forum have and do use rose joints on there steering. Have they moved their track rod from behind the front axle to the front?
If rose joints was out of the question, then couldn't a person use a "Y link" as below to combine the track rod and drag links?
Of course the next problem is finding the right size.
Todd.
I have been looking at doing this, using jeep wrangler parts from curry enterprizes. It would be good if the TRE is a bit beefier as the landrove one, to avoid them shearing, but than a stronger steering box also becomes neccesarry. I got as far as swapping the lh side swivel for a RHD (my truck is LHD as you maybe know). I didn't take it any further because there were a lot of problems to solve, mostly the panhard rod location, too many other things to do and the situation as is not that bad anyway. In the end I left it as is and resigned myself to carrying a spare draglink in case it does bend. But you might inspire me...
Daan
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They are usualy stronger than balljoints, but the question is of course what pin or bolt you are using for it. The trouble with a rod end is that they potentially wear out sooner as they dont have the springloaded wearcups inside them. There is a big variety in rodends (and prices of course), so it all depends what you get. I would be tempted to stay with ball joints on road going vehicles, because of the wear issue, but safety wise there is no reason you cannot use it I think. Have you considered the ackerman issue which goes in reverse when you do this, but people have done this and didn't found it a problem.
Daan
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I used banjos with a copper washer in exactly this place, it works fine.
daan
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I understand they are more firm than the ordinary OMEs, so would suit better to HD spring.
Daan
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What have you done to your pump? I remember on the way to russia, I used 14 litre over a stretch were an older, quite smoky 200 used about 18 litre. It was clearly turned up and any smoke you see is just litteraly burning money.
Daan
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Agreed. This, coupled with the air resistance characteristics of the vehicle is what will make the most difference.
By my calculation comparing to my Tdi 90, you're missing out on 5mpg through your autobox. So if you're serious about fuel economy then going manual will gain you a fair bit, I get 30-32mpg out of mine and that's a hard-top.
What I was thinking, and combine it with a 1.0 transfer box and make sure you never see smoke out of the exhaust, would make things much better. Also, I now have Cruise control on my roadcar, and that makes all the difference in consumption. You think you are driving pretty constant, but you do vary the throttle a lot unintentional.
Daan
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No, I had a set with exactly the same result.
Britpart ball bashing, all the way!
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the 1.9 is a good engine, but in standard form a bit small for the size of car you are trying to move. Im getting 30 mpg, even on simex. I would start with ditching the auto and get the tallest transferbox, and you will achieve exactly what you want.
Ps. the VGT you have makes it ideal to have a good lean re-tune.
Daan
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Daan
Have you got any close ups of the disc brake ?
I suppose its a homemade jobby ?
Morten
Here:
it is operated manually, but on a ratchet, so you only need to release to lower down.
Daan
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just build it and SVA it. My heap past it, so that should tell you something. It is not hard to do, and removes any awkward conversations with Johny law. Just keep all the invoices for parts you use.
Daan
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All intersesting reading, but the electric car is not the answer to all the questions; Most notable were comes the electricity from? If it is coming from fossile fuels, exactly nothing has been achieved in terms of energy usage. If it is solar, wind energy, or dare I say it, nuclear then yes things have improved.
What I found interesting is that the fuelefficent cars, like the hybrid, Bluemotion, eco flex, greenline, economique etc. have not really taken off. They mainly reside in front of dealership forecourts, who are trying to flog them for breakdown prices. They are more expensive to begin with, but it seams noone has the motivation to go and buy one. Maybe if the fuel goes up to a fiver a liter, people can be convinced, but at the moment it seams people just stay in their old ways.
Daan
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Why dont you get the Gigglepin one, it fits over the existing dif cover. I removed my diff and cut off the old cover to fit it, but it is not strictly needed. The Gigglepin one recommends to drain the oil and weld it on.
Daan
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I use 1 1/8 x 10 swg, which is a very snug fit, you need a hammer to slide it all the way over. I usually fishtail the ends before welding (2x 45 degree cut). I know it is not structural, but technacilly, you weaken the trackrod where you weld. with a fishmouth the section change is much better and less abrupt. I also put a slight twist in both ends of the trackrod, to move it upwards. This saves about 1/2 an inch in groundclearance, and brings the trackrod inline with the axle.
I also use the devon bracket that bolts on the diff. These days, I only ever bend a trackrod when I reverse it onto a rock or suchlike.
I would be surprised if an mot tester would pick you up on this; 10 years of MOT testing at various stations and testers and an SVA test have not given me any problems.
Daan
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I dont have a picture handy at the moment. I did design the disc and had it lasercut out of stainless plate. I will try to dig out a picyy later. The winch also weighs 25 kg, half that of a gigglepin. at the back, I run an EP9, which weighs the same. I dont run any extra batteries, which can add a further 50 kg, if you run 24 V. In all, the weight saving compared to most challenge trucks, the winches save a 100 kg.
Daan
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Cheers, steve, yes its a Koenig in 9:1 ratio, like here:
http://www.koenigwin...in-english.html
I run it from a superwinch PTO, which has been beefed up with a bigger shaft and a double chain. I have fitted a discbrake for lowering out as well. I can also work the freespool with a lever from inside the cab. Propshaft is from a freelander.
It has epic power and will pull for days on end. I am convinced that a PTO is the only thing that works for continues use.
Daan
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I haven't doubled up in my entire life!
Daan
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I buck the trend. Most of us has spend days, if not months cutting out rust, replacing chassis and bulkheads and what have you. I just sold my pug 206, 10 years old and not a single rust spot. Do you still see cars that rust? Not anymore you don’t. Do we see monday morning cars were everything stops working? Well, only the range rover p38. Engines have moved on a lot, 100k miles used to be the end of an engine, these days it’s not even halfway.
Daan
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I would fit the closely wound coils at the top, because with the weight on it, they are probably closed and therefore fill up with mud and stones, as you mentioned in your post. I dont think that argument is BL at all, as trying to clean this out is a complete PITA. Other than that, no difference.
But I dont use dual rate springs, because the result is more droop than bump and I dont think that is a good idea full stop.
Daan
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I would start with viton o-rings: it will give you a small footprint that will press through the surface tension of water and grip - like narrow winter tyres. Then move on to find the most wear resistant o-rings available.
Daan
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By any chance do you speak Dutch!?!
I do...
1- stabilizer fixings
2-stabilizer bar
3 vertical mount
And the sway bar does nothing for axle tramp: if the axle rotates, both droplinks move up or down, and the stabilizer rotates in its mounts, in which no force is createdon the axle whatsoever.
Daan
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I wouldn't even run that kind of power through a jank box, because it wont last. How many yank boxes has bathtub cooked so far? not many miles done I reckon.
How many horses have you got now and is it giving problems? Given how easy it was to break a CV (I saw a you tube clip of you doing a special stage with a cv), I would ask myself if more power is the priority.
Hate to be the miserable old boy...
Daan
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The ones on the left are wide ones, the later ones, the one on the right is the narrow one, earlier. I think the construction is the same from different suppliers, but I might be wrong. In true bodge style, I use narrow ones in my later front axle, with a washer either side. More flex is the idea, and I run early, narrow Rangerover radius arms (less weight). My bearmach ones are looking pretty second hand as well, despite only being used on sundays and national holidays.
Daan
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Given that I am not aware of Nigel competing, then the difference in HP is irelavent in this context.
Adrian
I cant see more power than this will be beneficial in any competition other than 'lasting less than half an hour before it breaks' type competition.
It is a different engine than most, and given that Nigel has a bussines mainly involving rover v8s, makes total sense.
Daan
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What is a winch anyway?
The device you use to pull the remains of your car on a transporter once you retire....
Daan
Steering with Rose Joints
in International Forum
Posted
I tried mocking it up, with the swivels left to right, but the endresult was very nearly the same. A disadvantage of doing this is that the caliper becomes leading rather than trailing, which means that the mud doesnot clear off so well, but thats a detail I suppose.
I havent found an easy solution to avoid the panhard mount on the chassis though, interested in your solution.
Daan