Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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it does fit, the only difference is that the groove which you need to set the timing is now 45 degrees out- which means you cannot set the pumptiming correctly.
Daan
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'not currently capable of interplanatery travel, because it is sorned'
Daan
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As far as stability is concerned the amount of lift and softness of the springs is a far bigger a factor than whether they dislocate or not.
The points when they dislocate are almost by definition times when the vehicle is pretty unstable.
which is why I wouldn't want to make it any worse. From what I gather, the dislocation idea really only cam about because with bigger wheels you start hitting the wheel arches, so you have to reduce bump. To keep the same amount of travel, you can have more droop, but then the springs dislocate. I am not a believer that dislocation is good for what we do, and as such I have made sure I can achive full bump and the travel looks after itself.
Daan
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looks pretty colmplete, the output flange is landrover propshaft pattern or you can fit a flange to it. What is it you want to drive with the PTO?
Daan
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slotted or not, at some stage the grease hardens, and it will find the way of the least resistance. I tend to put a g clamp on opposed needle cups to try to guide the grease to all 4 cups. that trick dont work if you have them slotted.
daan
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They are basically a series 3 with parabolic springs and discbrakes. Parts are sold here:
http://heystee-automotive.com/
The axles are series, but as wide as a coilspring axle. They are interchangeable, one of my dutch mates has fitted a set to a series 11a.
Diffs are landrover, if it is a locker it is from KAM. I believe the gearbox is an LT85, but not too sure. The iveco engine is good, Frogs island used to fit them to defenders at some stage.
Daan
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no, the first is a defender tapered plug, the second is an LT230 plug which I dont think will fit to my engine.
Daan
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Chaps, I am having problems finding a new drainplug for my early rangerover rear axle, which has the old style brass plug with copper washer. I have bashed the bottom of this so bad on rocks that I cant remove this anymore. Plan is to run a holesaw to the right diameter to clean up the diameter and than try removing it and fit a new one. Trouble is, no one seem to be able to supply this new. The partno 608246 seems to be the right one, but I ordered this and got the defender style tapered version. I doubt that it fits the thread and in any case, not keen on going for it if it does. Ebay has several listers offering this partno, but conveniently, dont show a picture, making me believe this is not what I am after.
Also, I would like to fit a magnetic plug in the sump, fot a 300 TDI engine. Does anyone know the threads on these ( I think there are 2 different threads, depending on age), and a supplier for this?
Daan
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Isn't the solid flywheel a lot heavier, and damps the vibrations purely because of this? As mentioned, I bet a tdi will give the gearbox a much harder time due to vibrations.
Daan
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the advantage of the shock inside the spring is obviously it is well protected, but also having the shocks exactly vertical makes them more effective compared to when they are under an angle, there is a motion ratio basically. Disadvantage is that under a lot of travel, say 12" and beyond, the shock start fouling the turret, so if you into showing off your suspension travel on a ramp, it is not so good. For me, the spring inside the shock workes well.
Daan
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" Accidents involving historic vehicles are extremely rare and the majority of owners are meticulous in keeping their vehicles in good condition".
By that explanation, you may as well bother not insuring it, making it complete: no tax, no Mot, no insurance. Or do away with a driving license? What the hell are these people thinking?
Daan
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Thanks chaps. I'll have a good look around. I had seen Boyts ad, but its a 200 mile round trip and machine mart is just round the corner from me.
Good to hear that the 1 tonne one was fine for the 300tdi. I just didnt know if it was worth spending a tiny bit more for that extra reach.
I;ve also seen pics of Daans truck on here when he is removing his engine i like his use of some old rims without tyres on to lower the truck and in that way make less work hoisting the engine.
Yes, that is using the 1 tonne clarke hoist as buzza linked to. to get the engine out, I have to take the wheels off, or it wont reach high enough and that is with the grille an radiator removed. In the past I managed to do it by removing the winch as well, but that is painfull and it still is about half an inch short. Also, because my engine sits further back, even in the longest reach position, the crane does not reach far enough in the engine bay, so you need to push the engine about an inch further backwards than the crane reaches. But I think for a 300 tdi in standard position, you are ok.All that said, I bought the crane in 1999, and has always done what I wanted of it.
Daan
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I was thinking about the pressure relieve valfe, that solution has been used in rally cars for this reason.
Daan
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If you drive fast, parrallel will be better, it has the effect of putting toe in on cornering, making the front end stable. Acker man does not really aply if the back end is stepping out, which is what happens when you corner fast.The reason you can turn tighter is that normally the iner wheel turns at higher angle than the outer wheel. But the inner is the limiting factor on a landrover, so parralel steering will turn the outer wheel further. I doubt you will notice a difference in traction.
Also, while you are working on the front axle, how much castor have you got? The more castor you have, the more camber you put on the wheel on turn in. This will help cornering a lot.
Daan
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Agreed with your points regarding scrubradius, no doubt. Jim ran disco 2 axles last year I believe, and had no problems with this, obviously this year, he has. I am just saying leading on day 1 (like steve 90 last year did for example), means squat when you brakedown soon after. almost all the big budget guys are now out of the race, Alex is probably big budget, but drives very conservative, and has very little horsepower. People are turning this into a power race, and I dont believe it is about that at all.
Daan
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So something like the ashcroft Force9s would help the situation as they are wider?
The force 9 would probably makes things worse because the kingpin axis stays in the same position, or at least near. The Disco 2 axle, however has the kingpin axis set in further inside the wheel to reduce the above effect.
Although all of the above is correct and the 3 boxes broken in 1 week is not good, that shows that you are driving like a gorilla and therefore dont last 8 days no matter what car you turn up with. all you need to do is take it a notch back and you will finish. Alex started at pos 24 in Croatia, is now leading.
Hate to play the miserable old b@st@rd bit, but thats how this works.
Daan
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when you say loose a tooth or 2, does this mean from the hydraulic piston rack, or from the mechanical connection rack?
Daan
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I guess you've tried 3 and 6 bolt boxes too? Only, through all my PAS planning i've had at least 1 guy adamant that the 6 bolt is way stronger than the 4, and another telling me its carp admitedly....
That is a good point, in the parts manual, the 6 bolt box is refered to as the adwest heavy duty box, sounds promising, but no experience myself.
Daan
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Well obviously, this:
http://en.wikipedia....eering_geometry
gives you the basic geometry. but with the trackrod in front of the axle, the ackerman principle is achived by angling the steering arms outwards, parallel to the angle as shown in the second schematic. moving the cylinder backwards will not nessecarily give you what you want, plus has problems like a diff in the way, and longer steeringarms will give you problems like your wheels in the way, especially when the steeringarms point outwards.
However, I think ackerman is a bit overrated, and I would try to achieve parallel steering geometry for a number of reasons: You can achieve a better turning circle on a landrover layout, and when going fast, it is more favourable because your backend always steps out a bit (ideally a 4 wheel drift I suppose).
Daan
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If strength is a concern, just use a NAS bolt.
Daan
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I must admit I am running 235 85s @ 35psi and have the blue speedo drive gear in the transfer box.
To answer Daan, when you trace a 300tdi's intake pipework, the route goes down to a drain point (?) bolted near the brake bias valve on the driver's footwell in the engine bay. When you unbolt this plastic gizmo it has a very small bore size, so I replaced the entire pipe run with 3" bore flexi directly from the airbox out to the wing - my reason being she can breathe a bit free-er.
Ok, I am not using any of that standard intake, so no change needed there.
Daan
PS, have you got video footage of the muppets in action club? Sound like a very promising name for an offroad club...
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Having just completed a jaunt to Liege and back this weekend with my free-er intake and a 1.2 transfer, I dare say the cruising speeds aren't much different to a 1.4. I find I can reach 72mph at what feels like a decent throttle margain but give me an incline and it's down to 65mph. Around town 1st was a little tough when loaded on some of the hillier starts.
I got 280miles from a full tank in the 90.
I can only summise that trying to push the brick shape of a Defender through wind at anything over 65mph is going to hurt the economy. I wonder if the Ibex has less frontal area and a better windscreen rake angle?
No on both counts, but it is heavyer. What is your mod on the intake?
Daan
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Aye, mine is still off and I'm wondering if it's worth replacing it, maybe it keeps carp off the radiator ?
BTW, I manged a cut finger and a bump on the head whilst putting the belts on, had on the latex gloves and saw this on removal !!
I always switch off the engine before I do that.
Daan
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****** Includes letting 2 numpties (aka Me + John White) "Inside" with a sledge hammer to "Help" Straighten" roof and sides
It even survived that.
Daan
3" flexible hose
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Chaps, I am looking for a bit of flexible hose 3", about 350 mm long. its trying to do a dogleg of about 3".I currently use corrugated stuff, but I am always a bit worried about it sealing on the metal tubes.
So far I found a 200 tdi intake hose, but its only 3" on one end:
http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c1c16f657
So something similar, or can the 200 tdi bit be modified?
So what are people using for this?
Daan