sean f

Good buy!, I have an M300 in the garage which I got on recomedation from a friend slightly bigger than the 250 but doesnt make much difference for most things I do. I got it wired up with a digital converter from drivesdirect who I found helpful, if not cheap, they can operate variable speed if connected direct to the motor but I bought a larger size (needed for the start up surge) and wired it to the lathes normal power supply so all the lathes normal controls and cut outs still work, I am sure this can and has been achieved by someone with sufficient electrical knowledge running variable speed but not me. The other advantage I can now run converter as a 3phase 415v ring main if I wanted to power different things provided I only run one at a time so can upgrade the mill to a bridgeport later if I want.

I had this problem when fitting them to mine, there was a lot of swearing as I checked everything to find the problem. In the end I tracked it down to the dash indicator light, the origional wiring has the indicators for each side of the indicators wired to the sides of the dash light, so when you indicate left the power is supplied to the left indicators as expected and goes to earth through the bulbs to light the indicators, power is also feed to the left side of the dash light, this powers the dash light going to earth via THE RIGHT INDICATORS, with normal bulbs not enough power goes to the indicators for them to actually light so all is fine. With LED's because they need so little power the right indicators will light. I fixed it by wiring each side to a different dash light, bit of a bodgy but it works. A dash bulb with something different about it so less power is transmitted to the opposite side would also work I expect and this is probable what they supply. As a test remove the dash bulb and see if all the indicators work as expected, if they do this is a good place to start.

You should be able to test the solenoid you already have, with the ignition on (but engine off) disconnect the wire to it, there should be a click or thunk as it closes, depending on were it is and the background noise this might not be to easy to hear. You maybe able to try this with the engine running, disconnect the wire and the engine should stop, if this is possible depends on if you can get to the wire safely and obviously if it doesn't stop then you are back to stalling the engine to stop it. Also check the wire to it, again it should be live with the ignition on but not with the ignition on, if it is then suspect the solenoid if it is permenatnly live then you will need to rewire it to an ignition live. I have no knowledge of the engine you are working with so now easy this is to do I have no idea, depends on how accessable the solenoid is. I have seen solenoids get stick due to standing around for a long time and stick either on or off particularly if there may have been some water contamination at some time, in the short term they can sometimes be freed up but longer term and for reliability its best to change them.

Like the way it is advertised as "perfect for export to USA", with the current news about the US tightening importation not sure it would pass there origionallity test.. Let see what would it fail on, non origional parts would be, body shell, chassis, axles, engine, gearbox, interior, suspension system, steering system.... and the origional parts would be.... possible the chassis number plate. Being sold by someone claiming to be a dealer as well which makes it even worse as they can't claim ignorance and really should get hammered by the authorities.

As it happens yes!. View out my cabin window is the 520ft marker on the leg of the E120, nice shiny new build jack up.

As others have said it won't work unless you store the vehicle under water. For it to be a sacricial anode the electrolyte I.e. water needs to be in contact with the anode and part they are to protect then the anode corrodes first. If the car is very very wet it might just work but most of the time it won't.

Thats my guess as well, splines look about right to take drive flange from a diff or lt230.

So if a car is sat in the road sat out side your house (and registered at that address) fully taxed, MOT'ed and insured it can be towed and scraped if a neighbour complains about it when they know you are away !!. Not sure how it would stand up in court if it was contested, surely provided the vehicle is legal (insured, taxed etc) then the tax gives you the right to park it anywhere on a public road provided it isn't causing and obstuction and any removal would be theft. If it is not taxed, insured etc and has no known owner (shouldn't happen with the new paperwork) then I can see the point. Lots of people would not be able to respond inside of a week, due to holidays or in my case spending most of the year working away from home. Wonder how often this has actually happened, land rovers in particular often look fairly rough and "scrappy" to some one that doesn't know the brand so several thousand pounds could get towed quite easily. I have in the past had a neighbour that complained about the land rover lowering the tone even though it was worth a lot more then her car. Another guy close by took to parking his tractor outside her house just to annoy her after she ranted at me whilst he was stood there, it was full road legal and registered PLG as it was used for hedge cutting so despite the police regularly getting called there was nothing they could do and I believe in the end she was informed if she carried on calling them (999 call each time!) she would get charged.

As Josh says if it has seperate motors on the screen they are on the back of the motors, sometime vehicles have been wired with another switch on the dash so the motor switch can be left on all the time and the wipers switched on and off from the dash. Also be aware there is no self park so you need to time switching them off. Depending on age it is possible it might have the motor at the end of the dash in a similar place to a series 3 in which case it should be on the dash somewhere... exactly where varies depending on what rewiring the vehicle has been through. If all else fails just trace the wired back to .... somewhere!.

If you can an engine driven compressor will deliver a lot more air, depends on your engine and room under the bonnet as to what will fit, otherwise fit the largest reservoir you can fit in or several smaller ones, again what ever fits in your build, range rover air tanks from p38s are quite small and come with mounting points pre attached, also quite cheap!. Might be possible to fit them inside the chassis rails or similar places so the are out the way and not likely to get knocked off or damaged. Once installed you can run any other air stuff off the same system although you might need a regulator depending on pressure, I fitted a cut off switch for this so if anything else failed my suspension still worked, I guess something similar would be a good plan for you as well. Running the pressure side at higher pressures gives more air volume to work with but increases the chance of leaks or blow outs, also check the routing of pipes for wear or heat, the one leak ihad was a pipe next to the compressor which melted after inflating someone tyres for them got the compressor very hot.

How you get the air into the actual tyre via the hub I have no idea but as to a controller. If you look at air suspension controllers for custom cars (US low rider stuff mostly), you can buy controllers off the shelf, basically a valve block with an "in" line for the air bag / tyre, then exhaust on one side and pressure on the other, open the exhaust valve to deflate, open the pressure valve to inflate, usually there is a line for a pressure gauge as well, one pair of valves per wheel. If you wire the valves back to rocker switches then you can set it up to rock up to inflate, down to deflate and have a pressure gauge above. More advanced controllers will let you go between sets of preset pressures at one push of a button, really advanced ones let you make the car dance up and down. There are several different valve configuration available this is the simple off the shelf one, I have one on my 90 for air suspension and it has been reliable for over 10 years now, with only one pipe bursting and one pressure gauge line failing, both replaced with better quality stuff. The only weak link which could leave you with a flat tyre should be the link from the controller valve body to the tyre, you can buy the bodies as a single pair which could then be placed as near the tyre as possible if you wanted.

Bad press can be found for just about any occupation if you look hard enough and twist the story enough. Local lane got a lot of bad press about 10 years ago with a lobby to close it "as kids are always racing motor bikes up it doing wheelies" it was close to houses and understandable the owners were upset, eventulally someone got hit by a bike and it came to ahead. Fortunately a council person rather than take the view of close the lane took the view why aren't the police doing something about illegal riding on what is legally a road. A few arrests later (easy to close both ends and no where else to go inbetween easily) and the problem just about stopped. It is just about impossible to stop illegal activity, stopping legal use of a lane is very unlikely to stop the people who are already ignoring the law to drive off the lane and / or drive recklessly. I used to shoot pistols legally, a sport that was totally stopped after one illegal act from some one that as the law stood at the time should have been banned but wasn't for unknown reasons (no official investigation held into issue the licence), a total ban was introduced with an inference this would stop illegal shootings, no surprise that since the ban the number of handguns used in crime increased, the law only effected those prepared to follow it. Hopefully some day I will actually get the compensation promised for the previously legal equipment I had confiscated in 1998 but not hold my breath!.

If I had a suitable broach and the press to use it that would be the ideal, unfortunately I don't and am running out of room to add more toys to the garage!, other wise I might be tempted. Dimmensions are: I/D for the toothed section 35.6mm, O/D doesn't really matter, I leave it big to add a bit more meat to the teeth. I/D further in 24.5mm again not to critical provided it is big enough to go over the shaft. Teeth are 8 evenly spaced 7mm wide, after I mill them it sometimes takes a little bit of fettling with a file to get a good fit, better to make them slightly large and file to size than have them to small. I made them with all 8 teeth present but it would be easier to just have 4 as this would be simpler to set up on the mill, 8 just gives a bit more security and spreads the load. I make the teeth 7.5mm deep which is a bit more than needed but works well as it is 3 turns of the elevation handle on my mill, so nice and simple to get regular.

I agree, no way that would retain the origional plate, first time that gets check by officials that actually have a brain and it is off the road till it gets a Q plate regardless of the paper work as that would all refer to a leaf sprung 80" not the vehicle presented. Is nicely finished though, f it was on an honest plate it would make a nice drivable run around.

A friend found his S3 gearbox became noiser after fitting an overdrive so wanted to ensure the special nut on the end of the mainshaft was torqued up correctly and asked me to make him a tool to do it, the result was this. I made it by turnng down a piece of steel and then milling out the teeth to give this. Before boring out the centre of a large nut and welding it to the back and finally electro plating the lot. Whilst I was doing one I decided to do a few and sold them on Ebay. When he came to actually use the tool he decided the easiest way to use it was to weld an socket to the end rather than use a big socket as I had envisioned whilst making it. He also reported that once the nut was torqued up correctly the gearbox quitened down to what it had been before, success!. With this in mind I have now moved onto the mark two tool Made longer and then bored to fit a socket welded in the back to make it 1/2" drive. I have sold all the extras I made on Ebay but still have a couple of the early milled steel sections left. This part. If any one wants one let me know, I will sell them on here for £4 each plus £2.80 postage (royal mail second class, collection is no problem) with £1 going to the forum. They will need a deep socket welding to the back to be able to use them this is just the part that engages the nut. I will be putting the mark two tools on Ebay soon but haven't decided on a price yet, probable about £18 there will be a forum discount if any one contacts me direct, postage is likely to be higher though as they are quite weighty. I know there is a company which makes these commercially and quite honestly what they make is a excellent piece of design and CNC machining, but comes at a cost, I was trying to make something cheap enough for some one not likely to use it to often to justify buying.

Not quite as bad as the origional picture but this was the state of a chassis on a B reg 90 I rebuilt a couple of years ago. Rear Spring seat, wouldn't want to go over a speed bump or even jump in the back!. Bulkhead outrigger, not much holding the bulkhead up. Possible not the worst rust ever but what was scary is this was only one month out of MOT, it had been tested and past 13 month previously!!. I knew the previous owner and it only got used for local driving and towing a small trailor, no boats or water to cause that much rust in that time. I can only assume the MOT testers guide dog liked the smell of it!.

As far as I am aware it is not actually technically illegal to sell a car ID, BUT it would be illegal to try and attach it to another car. Every car has an identity and should have an ID based on that, a car that has never been registered or is imported needs to have a new id applied for, same for a vehicle that has been built from parts of other cars (typically kit cars). To have several car ID's (V5 and chassis plates) for vehicles that have been scrapped or exported in your possesion would be seen as highly suspisious to say the least as they would have no legal use and the most common use would be to give a fake ID to another vehicle for some reason, either to try and make out it is tax exempt (quite common) or because the other vehicle is stolen (very common!). Old vehicles do occasionall legally lose the ID, if the plate have been removed and paper work lost when a car has been stored, then it is dug out by another owner many years later, if this is the case and some marks can be found then a new (age related if provable) ID can be issued quite laegally.

Now that realy is pushing it!. Just the i/d has absolutely no legal use (though the number plate might if it could be retained I suppose). A second hand chassis with no i/d could at least be used for a trialler or similar.

As the others have said if it looks OK and no other obvious faults probable worth a gamble and hope it is not the engine itself and a blocked rad or similar instead. If it has other electric issues then that would be all of it money. I wouldn't have a lot of hopes about making money out of it though as they don't go for much, as a cheap to buy fun run around though they are great (provided you can live with the fuel consumption). I only got £800 for my old 2000 P38 which was a 4.6 HSE, it had a few faults like the heated seats and the cruise control didn't work but drove well, biggest issue on that though was 230000 miles on the clock!.

Feedback through the brake pedal is generally caused by movement of the disc relative to the caliper (assuming its not an ABS issue). Generally as others have said it is due to a warped disc or a disc installed badly with dirt under it causing it to run out. Best bet is to remove each wheel in turn and turn the hub watching for movement of the disc relaitive to the caliper or tight spots as it turns, its not always easy to see if the disc's have a large lip or rusty edge but if it is causing heavy feed back is likely to be quite obvious, if the disc is fitted badly refit it with a bit more care to get it flat and true, if it is warped it is possible to get it skimmed but with the cost of a new disc not worth it, just fit a new pair. Another possible cause is play in the wheel bearings, as the hub wobbles it can cause the disc to be pushed side to side, this can also cause occasional long travel on the brake pedal as the pads are pushed back and some of the brake pedal travel will just end up pushing them back where they should be, depending on where and how you have driven this might not happen every time so can be an odd thing to try and work out. Whilst you are going about checking the disc give each wheel bearing a check as well. If you have fitted new wheel bearings anywhere thats a good place to start as it only takes a small amount of carp in the wrong place and they will feel fine when you make them up but the heavier loads whilst driving might cause things to reseat an gnerate a bit of play. Good luck on trackng it down!.

On the top of the injector pump I think, normally just one wire going to it, sometimes a second earth, should only be one wire on the injector pump, with the engine running if you disconnect it the engine should stop if it is the right one.

Often the best place to hide the switch is in plain sight!. If you have other extra switches add it to the row and label it work light or something similar, last thing a thief wants to do is turn all the lights on and so long as YOU know what it is thats all that matters, might have to explain it to the MOT tester though. If it is hidden away somewhere it is the sort of thing that might be looked for. Depending on what engine you have you can break the wire to the normal fuel cut of solinoid and add a switch in there, any one attempting to start the engine would just think it is a really bad starter and hopefully leave swearing, that never happens with a land rover product does it!.

Not sure what country it was but read an article about some place where the plate was issued to the driver not the car and acted as road tax, the vehicle had a seperate identity i.e. vin number. The advantage of the system was you had to have a driving license to get a plate, if you got banned the plate was withdrawn, once you got one it could and had to be put on any vehicle you were driving so identifying the plate automatically identified the driver, none of the "wasn't me driving at the time the car was clocked doing 125mph in a 30mph zone" your plate your ticket. Driving with any one elses plate on was an automatic offence. Also as the plate was road tax if you had multiple vehicles the plate just moved between them with you so only one lot of road tax as you can only drive one at a time any way, down side was if there were multiple drivers of one vehicle then multiple lots of road tax, guess they get there money back some how. I believe the plates identified what vehicles it could be used on so different colour or code for some one with HGV licence (and extra cost I am sure). Not sure what happened to overseas drivers guess a temporary plate would be issued. If you parked up, you took the plate with you so theft should be minimal, pretty much similar type of system to how trade plates work.

Difficult to believe a major manufacture could get type approval for a vehicle that is illegal, so I would assume all FACTORY extras would be legal, such as rear mounted spares. If I got any grief over something like this it would be the manufacture who I would put in court for selling a product that is not fir for purpose, i.e. a car for use on public roads that is not legal on public roads. As for roof lights I have a set of X-Lights fitted which I find work great, they are mostly used for lamping, driving across a field at night it really helps to be able to see dips or lumps a bit better rather than hit them at 30mph. One of my land rovers used to have a hole in the front wing where I hit a ditch and the guy in the back was thrown about enough to shoot the wing, a 12 bore from several feet makes quite a nice big hole all the way through!. I have the lights switched through the main beam and a seperate isolator as Simon suggests and normally have them isolated when on public roads. For those people overseas where laws are different, shooting with a lamp and / or from a vehicle is legal in the UK provided it is done with the land owners permission, in a safe way and doesn't cause danger or distress to any other members of the public, i.e. don't do it next to a main road or anything else silly.

As far as I am aware it should be a brake pipe and a brake wear sensor cable which run to either side of the axle (on some P38 later I think, the wear sensor cables and brake pipes come down near the ends of the axles, this look like an earlier setup). I am assuming the hole is in the rigid section of the pipe going over the top of the diff from your description, in which case I wouldn't bother trying to get a new pipe as a specific pipe. If you are reasonable mechanically competent buy a brake pipe flaring tool, some brake pipe and some unions and make up a replacement your self, if you don't fancy making up the pipe yourself then take the old one off and take it to any competent garage who will be able to make you a replacement for a few pounds. It would probable be a good idea to have a good look over the rest of the vehicle as well to check for any other corrosion. That level of corrosion on a brake pipe should be an MOT fail as well so if you got the vehicle recently and it came with a new MOT it might be worth having a word with the testing station, muttering about ministry testing stations etc might get you a discounted repair if they missed something like that.