jil6939

Interesting one about the hand brake being mechanical and it came up on the disco3 forum recently as someone had posed the question regarding the electrickery hand brake on the d3 and how it was mot legal. Shame i cant remember the answer

Why, you are correct Dave.This is perhaps something i should have a look at as when the crawler gear is in i struggle to hold back on the foot brake. Who knows what bigger brake cylinder will go on my disco then? Dave you have seen my car at Gwyns,in fact you made an oil cooler bypass pipe for me, or am i going to have to Quizz Gwyn while he is on holiday Probably only raining on his caravan anyway

Thats a bit odd as i told you i had a split charge for the D3 sent from OZ by oz mail and you should get a tracking number.My part arrived in about 3 days!Then a couple with the good old post office while they collected my VAT!but was still shown as in the country and waiting delivery. Boothy,Unless my eyes are now as useless as my mind, for remembering things,then there are only 3 class1 cars so you to can have a trophy dear sir

Indeed you will...or should i say it would give you more braking if you fit front callipers to the rear. Im not sure of all the types but mine are from a 90/110 with the larger pad area and single line in.I simply cut of the old axle mounting lugs for the rear and ran the bolts through the "new" front callipers into the now cut of lugs, held them in the correct position and welded them back on.DISCLAIMER... i dont actually use my car on the road it is trailered around. As for legal, then im not really all that sure but my car does actually have a current MOT so if it is a problem then its not a large one :ph34r:In fact it makes no difference to my foot brake at all and i still have a separate hand brake?I think there may be a lot of confusion over this and hydraulic hand brakes but im no MOT tester so i dont know. Now i think about it there was something about adding a second line to the rear axle or did i happen to have an old abs axle lying around at the time?!?! Some one help me here.....How many flexi pipes come down to your rear axle by the diff on a standard disco? as you need two to make it work.

Its more sportsman like than just starting.

Sorry it was not PP it was North off Road

I think they all have there pros and cons and it depends on what you want it to do. The QT or G string type are good at protecting the diff and drive flanges but i have bent them in competition. They are normally knocked squint and you have to pry them back again to do an oil change. This is not permanent damage but is annoying. The type that clamps around the diff pan only is ideal as the reality is that the bottom of the axle is actually stronger than you might think and doesn't really need protecting but unless they are checked regularly they can come loose and fall off or cause corrosion around the diff where they clamp.They also offer no drive flange protection or steering bar protection. Someone does a type that does the job of both ie it has a clamp around front but goes under the diff to form a steering bar protector at the front and a drive flange protector at the rear. I have used those to good effect and still run on the rear at the moment.I think they are made by Protection Performance but im not totally sure.Gwyn Lewis does a very cheap weld on one that covers the front of the diff pan area only and offers no steering protection but he also does a separate very large steering bar gaurd that runs the full width between your front radius arms.This gives you the option of buying the two parts at different times if it is what you need. This is what im using on the front at the moment and have not had any problems with it but you need to have access to a welder.I cannot think of any others at the moment but im sure there are more!!! These are the ones i have tried myself on a challenge motor so it gets knocked about a bit more than your usual use. Hope this is of help.

In fact john if i just looked correctly then you can turn up do one punch and still get a trophy.

Morning Les, I was not for one second suggesting you were making up stories as i know you and you have better things to do, i am only suggesting that the answer is not as straight as the statment you made.I am more than aware that there a treads about the subject, along with other threads about wrapping bits of wire around your fuel pipes and putting air flow disrupter's in the inlet. I pretty sure if you look long and hard enough you will find a story about a lucky rabbits foot and turning around on the spot three times before you drive your car but it is of no importance to the poor chap that came on here celebrating his joy that he had done what was right for his personnal use. My old red 300 that i used for towing has done 120000 miles now with the last 65000 on a K&N and it is what i would consider to be one of the better engines out there. I also have a Mustang that has been in the family from new and was bought and run in Oman (nice and hot and dusty) for many years before it was returned here via France. It runs a paper element and has around 160000km on the clock but is not what i would say was a better example of that type of engine.None of this means anything.Have a nice day PS by two filters i meant that most now run a cyclone "tractor" type of prefilter to prevent the main element from clogging up as quickly.

Im not so sure this is correct or the power of the tinternet.Better at what? It has been seen that dust /sand can pass a "Performance filter" but unless im mistaken this has been under extreme use in harsh enviroments ie dessert racing etc and most cars that do that now run two filters in series.That must in my book make it a better filter for removing very fine dust. I wonder how much difference it makes on a dyno and therefore assuming an increase in performance it has to be down to what you want to use your car for!I ran an old Lotus for 5 or 6 years with just short trumpets and a wire cage, no filter at all. I never drove the sahara in it and as far as im aware it is still going strong now,that was therfore fine for my purpose..Not starting a new debate on filters, just saying that when it comes to the internet the force is strong my friend.

Just you and me then John? Garry Zoller waiting on parts from OZ for his front diff last i heard.?

I thought they had that event already. Its called the school run. Just messing, each to there own.

Should be there. Does seem to have come round very fast though.I thought it was still a couple of weeks away till Tracey told me.

Standard,the trouble with upgrading is you can then run a bigger ram that will steer quicker,but of course you will want it bigger still so you can steer even faster,then you will need an even bigger pump.......and so it goes on.If you are looking for one finger steering on its nose then look elsewhere. If you are looking to just improve your standard set up and remove some of the strain then the ram assist is the way forward. You will have entered the final round Gordon?

Put me down as interested. (see if i can twist Mr Jacksons or Mr Zollars arm) if its same car team entry

I have a kit adapted to fit on my disco (looks nothing like a disco) and it has been trouble free and easy to fit seeing as it is really for a Defender.Dont go looking for one finger steering when stood on one front wheel as that is not what it is about!

Ring them up and ask them ?????!!!!???!!!

Not sure about 200 but that sounds like the noise that a millage 300 makes when the valve clearances are way off ant there is some sort of top hat that falls off the valve tops. Easy to fix.

Maybe we are both breaking less rope this year because the punches have all been so easy

Team event,one Tray one Full body, both have to get the punch!

You will never get a straight answer on this one as people exagerate the truth and making a statement like my 10mm has been on my Disco 3 for nearly 2 years now and is as new is obvious.Also dare i suggest that there would appear to be many different ways to measure the thickness of an 11mm or 12mm rope Out of interest i have been using the 38mtr Marlow 12mm Extreme/Max or what ever it is being called now for over a year.Washed it in the washing machine, reversed the end the hook is on at regular intervals and also moved it from the front to the back as it gets older.Im not sponsored for ropes in any way by anyone, so you could say at that price i make sure i get the most out of it. It has lasted use and abuse on a car that weighs slightly more than a feather and is on a twin motor front and single on the rear. I have used most other ropes and sizes in the past and never noticed any real world difference in them all until now.I stick my neck out in suggesting that the early Marlow rope was no better or worse than others,so unlike the others, they have moved the game on in the new rope but also the price. Since using the 12mm Max i have been asked many times what sort of rope im using.Make your own conclusions from that. Tell your supplier that you want his rope but not at that price as i have had it cheaper than that and its a tough world out there!!!

Better late than never My link

Could it be a way of limiting tyre size as the two do kind of go together? I really must change that picture some time soon!!!

Well a big thankyou to all involved but my biggest thankyou to the driving god that was Kevin Moss. He gladly came along to fill my seat in my car at a moments notice despite his experience only being in a class 3 motor. At first he looked a bit lost with all the extra buttons and switches but very quickly settled into a steady trot and picked away all day. A fine exanple of car control and balance if ever i saw one. Not a single "Roll" to celebrate or any other near miss to gloat about. A true gentleman. Now for all the repairs i have to do.......oh yes....none! Thanks Kevin.

I wouldn't be to sure about whether that is the best option for you as if the mushroom type break at the outside they are easy/cheap(second hand spares) to remove and change at the roadside.The flange type snap at the diff end and without a removal tool are a RPITA to change,they also strip the teeth off the flanges if not maintained. Just suggesting that you may be changing parts when there is no real problem in what you are using it for.