Jode

We've mounted fire extinguishers (one each side) under the rear seat, and also store tent and tarpaulin bits there. But we haven't made up any storage units for under the seat - could be an intersting project. Cheers.

The trouble with timing the diesel is you've got several variables that must be aligned: the flywheel needs to be locked, however the locking slot goes through a complete circle every time the crank rotates through 360 degrees, so it is possible to lock it at the wrong spot for timing; likewise the timing mark on the case must align with the crank gear key, but again the gear does a full circle each time the crank rotates 360 and can show alignment when the timing is off. So starting off with the engine at TDC is critical to ensuring all the bits are properly synched to one another.

Did you suss the faults or a garage? Either way I hope you've seen the damage, as you don't want to be charged for something that isn't there (sorry, but some garage owners - just like the rest of us - are less than honest).

Senor Don - Did you smear heat-sink paste between the module and the alu heat sink that forms part of the mounting bracket on the side of the dizzy? The modules must be heat-sensitive, as the work shop manual stipulates that this is necessary. Other than that point, I can offer no other 'wisdom' regarding your problem. La Paz is quite high, so maybe the modules run hotter at higher altitudes (but that doesn't make sense to my very limited knowledge of electronics, so the thought is probably a red herring). By the way, what symptoms does the fault express? I ask because we once had a 110 V8 with twin SUs plus a pointless dizzy, and we ended up with a problem (never fully resolved, although we have subsequently sold the vehicle) whereby the engine would intermittently loose power after running for an hour or so. We replaced fuel filters, plugs, checked ignition cables, replaced the module (yes) - nothing would sort the problem. As I had rebuilt the SUs quite some time before then, I could only guess that the problem was perhaps related to a stretched timing chain (something I hadn't yet got around to replacing). Good luck!

Once you have fit the drive member (hub), the stub axle/CV is intended to have a specific amount of play within particular tolerances as given in the workshop manual (or Paynes if you haven't got the LR WSM). You need a dial indicator plus bracket or magnetic base to set this - basically you pull the CV tight up against a bronze bushing and then let off slightly to give the requisite end play (can't remember what it is off the top of my head).

Your question is complicated by changing lubricant specifications. The lubricant manufacturers fiddle with their products on a regular basis, doubtless for a variety reasons (commercial as well as technical), and consequently the LR spec'ed lubricants aren't necessarily what LR spec'ed when they drafted the owner's manual or sent out a technical bulletin to revise those specs. For example, EP90 is typically graded with reference to the American Petroluem Institute's grades. The standard current API rating for gear lube intended for hypoid gears (such as the crown wheel and pinion gear) is API GL5; however GL5 has high-pressure additivies that may corrode soft 'yellow' metals such as brass or copper. As the diffs (including the centre diff) have phosphor bronze washers behind the planetary gears, there may be a risk of corrosion should you buy GL5-rated EP90. I have seen reference in a white paper published by Amsoil (IIRC) that gear oils that ALSO meet the MT-1 rating are more likely to be compatible with 'yellow' metals (the quote here is from the introductory section of that paper): "API MT- 1 is independent of API GL-5. API MT-1 calls for a higher level of oxidation stability, copper corrosion resistance and seal compatibility, which is not provided by API GL-4 or GL-5. Not all gear lubes meet API MT-1 performance standards." So choosing the correct lubricants can present some challenges. Cheers.

Fully synthetics are more expensive but should allow longer drain intervals - one manufacturer (Amsoil) suggests 5X normal but probably 3X normal would be keeping things more on the safe side. Cheers.

I think what's happened is that I've been a bit too enthusiastic and turned too hard for grip when trying to get unstuck in mud, the result being that the weight of the wheel transmitted a lot of force through the stop bolt when ... well, it stopped.I'll check out the links - thanks. Cheers.

That would work, but frankly I'm thinking of binning the things and just taking it easy when turning in the sand.Cheers.

As advised above you will find threads in the technical section regading dual battery set-ups. But just to summarise - you have two options: a split charger, which is a blob of electronics that allows both batteries to charge while the alternator is spinning but doesn't allow (when it WORKS properly) the second battery to drain should you forget to turn the lights off at night.... The second option is to simply use a big solenoid to isolate the second battery from the battery charging circuit: this allows the battery to charge when the ignition is on (and when the alternator is spinning), but as soon as the ignition is off, the solenoid opens and the second battery is isolated from the other battery. Provided that each battery has its own circuits independent of the other's, the odds are good that you will have at least one charged battery even if you forget to turn some electrical thing off. Typically the above pair of batteries is wired in parallel, so you keep your 12V system (wiring in series would give you 24V). Cheers.

Slightly off topic (sorry), can anyone recommend a replacement for the poxy bolts the 1995 110 uses for the stops (FTC4111, with nut NT112041L)? On the '89 V8 we had, the stops were formed as big chunks of metal with a nut head, and with a threaded rod half-way down that fit through the swivle housing and through to the lock nut (if that description makes sense...), rather than just a fully trheaded bolt as on the '95 model. The chunk of metal bottomed out agains the swivle housing and prevented the stop from bending, whereas the fully threaded bolt bends under use - complete rubbish. Maybe I'm brutal when steering, but those bolts are constantly bending when I drive off-road. Thanks.

But it would be a good idea to follow GB Mud's suggestion and have a look-see with a mirror, just to be on the safe side and since you're wondering. Cheers.

You can find the workshop manual on the net in pdf - just google 'land rover, workshop manuals' and you'll eventually find the link you need. Also the Hay..s manual for the SU is really very good for rebuilding, however IIRC it doesn't show how to set the idle. Cheers.

Slop on power take-up can be a number of things, including diff wear. There are basically two areas where diff wear can cause slop - too much backlash between the crown wheel and pinion (but as this should be only .15 - .27mm for the Salisbury diff this is not likely to cause such obvious slop), or wear between the spider gear splines and half-shaft splines. One of the more likely culprits is wear in the half-shaft / drive member splines. These wear from a lack of lubrication (poor design by LR). Wear in the prop shaftr UJs are also a common fault. And possibly wear in the T-box output shaft / hub splines. Cheers.