Jode

The caps were AFAIK vented as standard on the 300 TDI. It isn't unusual despite the vent to get a whoosh when taking the filler cap off as the fuel tends to expand as it gets warn during running the vehicle, and the vent doesn't completely equalise the pressure in the tank with the atmospheric pressure. You can disassemble the vented cap to service it - I'd attach a pdf of a service article on how to do this if I could find an attachment tool on this website, however I can't seem to locate one.... but here's the link to the article: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/fuel-cap-72130.html

Although the pumps aren't serviceable, you can drill out and replace the rivets on the Wabco pumps as noted by steve b, either using new rivets or M5 bolts (IIRC) plus nylocs. The most common fault with the Wabco pump is oil leaking through the cover because of rivet wear, however if its internals are b..ered then you'll need a replacement. I seem to recall reading somewhere that Volvo used a pump that can be used in lieu of the Wabco....

I have looked far and wide without success for a crow foot that fits the 9/16" (I think it is) swivle housing bolts. I prefer using a torque wrench as I'm not a mechanic and frankly don't have the touch necessary to do the bolts up evenly without.

I would just replace the hose - they're not very expensive (provided of course that you avoid the ones in LR boxes...). You may be able to put a splice in the damaged one and could then keep that as a spare should you do any long-distance traveling and want to carry bits for emergency repairs.

The consensus on the aulro site seems to be that the P38 axle is weaker than the salisbury (which I understand is basically a Dana 60 axle), for what that's worth (we've never had a P38 so we don't have first-hand experience).

Indien har jeg tilgode... men den sydlige Afrika har vi set en del til, i og med at vi har boet i Botswana i 20 år.

Jon, your photos show a seriously clean engine. Jeg er død misundelig!

You realise of course that printed manuals etc. are typically covered by copyright, and this forum does not encourage breaching copyright rules by downloading material illegally. That said, if you should find freely available material on the web that you suspect may be covered by copyright, the decision to either download or not rests with you.

They say the school of hard knocks is expensive - isn't it just! First time I replaced the timing belt on the 300 tdi I didn't get the torque sufficiently tight (something distracted me...), which resulted in the woodruff key cutting a new keyway for itself in the pulley (radially...). No tick sounds at all - eventually however the engine wouldn't start.

Having said that, the 'you will only notice the difference in 5th gear' comment sounds like Ashcroft had the 'disco' high-range transfer gear in stock and not the standard Defender unit (1.22 vs 1.4 IIRC) - this affects high-range gearing only as the low range ratios are identical between the two models. That gearing would affect pulling in high-range (boat out of the water problem), but doesn't explain the other issues.

In order to inhibit engine and roadway noise you need a material that will provide greater material density between you (the cab interior) and the noise source than is provided by the lr bodywork. Simply put, the denser the material the more it will tend to stop the passage of higher-frequency sounds. So the 'closed cell foam' material that you choose will make the difference between something that provides value for money and something that's both a waste of moolah and time. Best to buy a known and proven product that has been designed to reduce sound transmission, even if it's pricier than something from Ali Baba and his den of thieves (or whatever it was in '1001 nights').

We have had both s..tparts and acceptable parts delivered in blue boxes. I however try to avoid that particular brand as, judging both from (albeit limited) personal experience as well as forum reports, the blue boxes have a quality control problem.

Presumably there isn't as the manual indicates the use of a degree torque wrench as you noted.

Thanks, Western, a very handy list!

I would have thought that there would be very very slight play in-out on the output shaft, as it is interference-fit to the bearing, and the bearing is likewise interference-fit into the output housing but 'restrained' by a big circlip. So it's probably no worries. Travel well - hope your time in this big continent has been interesting!

Are you certain that you set the steering drop arm corectly to centre? It should have an equal number of turns to full lock at each side.

I've probably completely misunderstood what you've done, but anyway the WSM states that you're to remove the rubber gaiter at the handbrake lever; remove the split pin, clevis pin and washer holding the cable to the lever; slacken the transmission brake adjuster; remove the prop shaft from output shaft; remove the brake drum; release the handbrake cable end from the plate at the brake drum; and withdraw the cable from inside the cab. Refitting is the exact opposite.

Check your steering damper - maybe that's decided to give up the ghost. But knocking... a stone trapped in the brake mud shield? I wouldn't have thought steering box, but as it's steering related its worth a look see (but I wouldn't pull anything there apart at this point).

Not terribly elegant but I've used flashband (the alu foil with a tar-like adhesive on the back, which is used with a torch for simple flashing repairs on roofs etc.) in the past to seal smallish bulkhead holes. Now I've got a selection of black rubber grommets....

Presumably you will need to allow Birtpart's wish to have a garage fit them - I presume that they will insist in order to eliminate the unknown (your diy skills - no criticism intended) from their warranty equation.

Likely to be the solenoid - otherwise you're tubo may be knackered and the engine's sucking the sump dry via the turbo oil feed.

As the Bomber noted, check your earths. They often corrode and prevent current flow, resulting in 'look, ma, no lights'!

1. The WSM indicates that the toothed spacer is a deflector, and must be installed with the teeth facing the inlet manifold (joint washer at manifold, toothed deflector, joint washer, insulator, joint washer, carb). 2. The second pipe may have something to do with emissions contrrol, as the device that is inserted in-line of the hose looks like an oil catcher. Could this hose therefore be a form of breather hose? (Our V8 had SUs, so I can't help much with the Strombergs.)

You are quite right - the pump IS removed with the flange. However the workshop manual also states the following when describing the procedure to remove the injection pump gear:"CAUTION: It is important to ensure that when the injection pump is locked no attempt must be made to rotate it...". Based on that comment, I presumed (incorrectly?) that disturbing the position of the injection pump shaft either during or after removal etc. may result in the timing being off once the pump is refit to the engine, this despite the fact that the pump hub aligns with the timing pin. Again I presumed that if the pump hub is turned 360 deg. out from its orignial position when remove then the timing will be incorrect (at 360 deg the timing pin would again align with the hub).

You could try setting the engine at TDC and then marking the pump shaft to the pump body. But you would then need to ensure that the pump shaft doesn't turn once you've removed the pulley, otherwise you'd likely struggle to correctly reset the timing.