Josh NZ

Holy cow, they look great! Drool.... You won't ever want to get them dirty, latex gloves at all times when touching or fettling haha

The leaf springs are different rates on each side to allow for the fuel tank and driver. The diesel spring set is, from memory slightly more HD than the petrol version. You may have them round the wrong way. It would be worth trying to get a Series 3 workshop manual. There's a bunch of links to parts books in the Parts Request section of this forum. The book will have all the relevant information you need.

Standard bushings are a good compromise for longevity IMO. From what I've heard, poly bushes are quite stiff? Maybe there's different grades. I've just used a drill and drilled a load of holes through the rubber part of the bush, then use a piece of tube as a drift to bash the centre piece out. If the shackle bolt is rusted in, cut each end off, lather in penetrating oil, drill and start bashing with aforementioned drift. I tried the hacksaw method, drove me bonkers! Grease them when they go in, whatever you use. Or so I've been told/done every time I do it. Josh

In the regard of shocks, it's a bit of "you get what you pay for". Bilsteins are great if you can afford them, I'm not totally sure but I think pro comps are sort of mid range. The shackles being completely free will help the ride quality, as will the condition of the bushings in them. If they're knackered, it would be a good time to swap them out if you can. My truck used to clunk and thump speed humps, potholes etc and then I changed the bushings.. What a difference! Not saying it's the be all and end all, but if the componentry in the suspension system isn't all good in fettle, the ride won't be as good as it can be. Hope that helps! Josh

Specifying the distance between spring eyes would be the most logical way, I don't know if that's what they actually do. I guess the shop would be able to find a specs list (worrying with LRs tolerances!) and set them to that.

I had good results from getting leaf springs reset, but from what the guys at the shop told me, its really only classed as a temporary fix as they can sag back again. How long that takes, is down to how much weight you carry, how rough the terrain it gets driven on is etc. I got my leaf springs reset (albeit in a 70 series cruiser) and I asked for a small amount of extra arch to counteract the re-sag if it ever occurred. I was blown away by how much better the ride was! All 4 cost me around $600 NZD and that included them removing, refitting and re-bushing the componentry. A worthwhile option if you can't get decent new ones in my eyes. Josh

Most parabolic spring swaps come with the recommendation to fit +2" shocks. I think it has something to do with increased range of travel it will see during use, plus they will lift the truck a little. What condition are your spring shackles in? They could be seized or partially seized. What're your tyre pressures? Truck cabs are quite light in the rear end, maybe throwing a bit of weight in might help? Bags of sand or something. Springs, how many leaves? Hope this helps! Josh

When I bought my first series, I couldn't get it to deliver fuel for love nor money. However, I could prime up the pump with the lever just fine. I eventually sorted it, but first I pulled the pump off and double checked it was sitting on the cam follower bit which drives the pump. Then I dribbled petrol straight down the throat of the carb with the filter elbow removed and turned the engine over. It fired up straight away, and then kept running! I guess by "forcing" it to start with the tiny amount of fuel, I must have made the pump suck enough to drag the fuel up and just keep flowing. Might be worth a try! Otherwise I would suggest that gunk has blocked the fuel lines inbetween the tank and the pump. Hope that helps. Josh

I have these exact models (Hammer drill and impact driver). Fantastic, almost 18 months in, and both been heavily used and abused on construction sites and workshops. So good, I even went out and bought the matched angle grinder and circular saw! I wouldn't buy any other brand now! I will however be buying the 5.0ah batteries as soon as can afford it. 4ah is great, but the impact does suck the juice pretty quick if I'm constantly going at it. Josh

That stuff is called Linex I think.. It was on a 130 in LRO a while ago

Intriguing problem this.. Could it be a dead short? Sudden interruption to the constant live power supply which controls such things as radio settings but only momentarily. Odd with the CB still working though. Does the stop solenoid operate through earthing or is it a positive-ly operated switch? (If you get what I mean.. It always makes sense in my head) Could a small section of the wire have chafed through?

I should really have remembered that.. As having owned a V8 previously.. D'oh!

Are the valves/rocker arms/ tappets properly adjusted? If they're far enough out the truck won't start. My old series 2a did the same thing after I rebuilt and changed the cylinder head.

Watched it via Facebook.. Fantastic video! Almost made me go and buy a new series project..... Almost.

Great choice of colour Will end up looking very smart!

Well, red WILL make it go faster.. I'd personally go black. Nothing beats a super clean, but factory fresh style in my books. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out!

The trans tunnel is different on S3 V8, and I'm not sure about the R380 but the LT77 has a few mentions on the stage 1 forum. If the truck has the standard 2.25 it would struggle with 3.54s but with tiny tyres it might manage ok.. Engine would have to be in perfect health though

Oops.. I might need to re-enrol back at school! -50c?! That's crazy cold

Yellowknife is in Alaska isn't it..? I'm sure I saw it on a TV show. It would take a fair bit of Pre-heat to start at those temps I reckon!

I also ran a Stage 1 V8 when I lived on a property which had a river running though it. I had to cross the river each day and it never had an issue with it. I used to muck around and hit the water as quickly as I could which would often send water over the roof. Totally standard ignition and fuel system. Luck of the draw I suppose, but it's just a matter of methodically checking all the mating surfaces and apply some thought as to how they could seal better. Or there are heaps of aftermarket options. Good luck!

One is for a low fuel light, which would mean its a diesel type sender. Can't remember off the top of my head what the other one is.. I think they all go to the gauge!

Combination brake lights/indicators as seen on a lot of American vehicle?

The actuator would be a pretty cool idea, and I don't see why It can't be done with a small pneumatic ram. Might be a bit awkward trying to press the button or whatever I between clutching and shifting the main lever. A vapour build is just an idea that you hypothetically build in your head or on paper/Internet, and not in real life. Our own O'teunico has a few vapour build threads in the international section

Your ignition coil may be on its way out too. Would be worth checking/replacing as they're not expensive

Check the earth connections in the circuit, and then pull the sender out of the tank if possible and have a look at the float arm, it may be damaged or broken. The aftermarket senders are reasonably priced so replacement isnt a bad path to take. I had a britpart one once.. It was actually ok!