RobotMan

I have just removed the 1¼" rear cylinders and went back to 1" cylinders as with an empty soft top 88" on Special tracks the back end was prone to locking and coming round on me in the wet. I have 11" Regular width TLS at the front. I now have a balance I'm happy with that matches my vehicle and the tyres it's on.

I plan on having two U channels run front to rear secured to the main hoop and rear stay cage feet. I'll then put a plate acroos them with a vertical winch mount coming up off that such that the bottom of the winch is facing the back door. The mount will have the middle notched out so the rope can go back or up straight off the drum. I plan on a fairly straightforward bent tube fair lead at the centre of the main hoop with bracing below it. At the back I'll cut a hole in the back door and have the rear hawse so it sticks through it when shut. It will be make it up as I go Fab lol! I would draw a picture but it's too much grief on this phone. The picture doesn't add much but I've put it on anyhow.

Might not be beefy enough those. Cheers though. I'll make one, or blag someone into doing it for me!

You want 109 or post 1980 swb but not 6cyl/V8 on an 88" as it would snatch terribly.

I took them off before getting it back on the road due to propshaft angles with my higher than standard gearbox. I will get around to making a centre limit for the axle to control that but it's about priorities and time. I had used the longer bolts so that I could fit a locking plate on the revolvers for road use. It effectively made them into a rigid triangular shackle. For me tyres, difflocks and winches are first choices before battling against leaf springs. Look to the US as they love leaf springs.

Greater angle would conflict the tyre on lock. If you mount the shocks inboard of the chassis rails the they will damp rolling less due to greater distance from wheel and therefore greater lever acting against them. To counter this you could use more strongly damped units. These require stronger mounts and when both move together ie over a speed bump then it will be very harsh. Best bet is to lift top mount and go longer shock. Go straight up then it can come out a bit to not foul chassis rail on full droop. I've been looking at making a bolt on extended mount but it's quite a way down the to do list. You can't go far wrong copying Gon2Far's design. I doubt I'll bother with the rear. I have enough travel, for now... Disconnect your shocks, cycle the suspension and if you gain anything, work from there.

Front dampers are shorter than rears. If yours are the same then something has already been tweaked. The short springs do limit travel. The shackle at the back makes the wheel pull back from obstacles and hop. They do, however climb out of ruts better due to the weight transfer and front wheel biting in harder. Stuff you discover when playing alongside fancy modern stuff.

I have a set of +3" front and +5" rear rough country dampers. I haven't fitted them yet as I seem to manage OK on +2" all round. You can't just fit longer ones to standard mounts unless you restrict up travel to stop the longer shock bottoming. If you do that what have you gained? Raised upper mounts are the answer or some fancy back to back double telescoping shocker setup. Search Six Pack shocks but I've seen it done with home made Fab.

They fold at the shock mount end which stiffens the plate against the twisting load

I just run standard plates. Cut off any excess thread. Near enough for me. I have M10 U bolts all round now as I kept stretching the smaller section imperial ones.

Interesting spring plate design. No trimming 235/85R16 is the same as 7.50R16. Factory option size. You may find they rub the bottom of the rear tub on full flex. I have had 255/85R16 on mine without issue, on parabolics. A 2¼ should easily pull 235/85R16 if it doesn't then you need to look at your engine. It will give you a useable first gear.

How big a tyre are you talking? I run 235/85R16 and rarely are ruts an issue. If you run smaller then yes you are smaller than the majority. How about taking a different tack and fit a locker in the back. Mich less work and more insurance friendly than modifying suspension. Even just swap to a bigger set when off road.

I'll just use camping mat and glue when I get round to it. I did use the lip part of a defender tunnel with the rubber boot rivetted too it.

Just made a big metal box to cover it all up.

Thanks fellas. I have a few ideas in mind and making things shouldn't be too much of an issue, I was just being lazy. I don't have a rear rad so no need to go round the houses. I won't get back to this for a while, just trying to have a plan before I start for a change. Oh and it will be TDS 9.5c in a Series. I shall of course be putting a second diagonal and vertical brace into the main hoop too.

That is the most likely solution. I was just hoping there was something floating around in someones garage or such like. Looks like I'll be fabbing something up but if you don't ask you don't get!

Yes. Im looking at something more like SiTrials setup. The cage hoop is relatively simple. I'm looking for one to go at the rear big enough for the hook to pass through and back so it can go up instead. Team idris's solution is great but mine is also a daily driver so I want everything inside when the canvas goes back on.

I'm planning to fit a centre mounted winch with the intention of running it either up over or out the back. I'm trying to find an aluminium hawse for the rear with an opening deep enough to pass a yellow competition hook through. I guess I could change to a shackle and undo and redo each time but that seems a ballache. I have given up on searching and thought I would ask if there is anything reasonably priced out there before making my own. Any pointers?

Strength wise, on the brackets, I would not going below 3500Lbs.in applied at calliper bosses. Get the monster torque wrench out if you are worried about thinned down brackets, it would put your mind at rest.

I am really happy with it. I was concerned about the rear prop angle. I knew it was fine in theory but you always have a niggling doubt. I have flexed it and bounced it hard and no sign of contact of the yokes at all. I used a shortened Range Rover front, the highest angle one, to 20 1/2" which is just 1" less than stock. Because the output is now much closer to the line of the spring mounts there is very little movement on the spline. The front is a mixture of a second hand Stage One double cardon and disco rear from the pile of props I had. I don't actually need the DC prop as the front V8 axle with stock hangers and extended shackles sits parallel flange to flange. The main benefit of the raised engine and box apart from not needing to modify the chassis at all was the fact that everything is now tucked up out of harms way. Even the exhaust runs above the crossmembers. Silly little jobs included reversing the gearstick and putting a bend in the transfer lever so the main stick clears it. I used Hella Comet 500 as Spots in the place of the original lamps as they are SO thin. I have loads of pictures but they are scattered across multiple devices. I will be down your way in it July for the Scott Williams Memorial Challenge at West Harptree if you wish to compare ( I expect you will be done by then). Oh and here is a YouTube video where you can see underneath, that's my excuse anyway!

It will also give you an increase in scrub radius. Not enough to be of concern.

I do like that Series Landy ;o) 200Tdi, Series box, Truetrac in the front and ARB RD128 in the back. Pegged and on 4.7 still. 235/85R16 Special Tracks. It has evolved a bit since then. The blue 90 now has a pegged Eaton NoSpin in the back. I'm seriously looking at the Ashcroft Locker for the front now.

I'll swap you rear dims for front!

SOA 93 if you do dig them out of the shed could you take some pictures / measurements please?