RobotMan

Well it's built up now ready to fit. I have pegged it too of course. I'm trying to make up my mind whether to drop it straight in to the front or move the ARB to the front and put this in the back. I know the back gets more use and hammer so, from reputation and having seen the thing, I should put it in there but front failure or servicing is more of a work up so the better air system of the Ashcroft should make it more fit and forget although the greater hold in makes me want it in the back for quicker more positive engagement. I know it's a dilemma many would like to share. Oh and the supplied longer bearing cap bolts are of course metric and the pegged casing I had was imperial. I was going to fit it yesterday but went out to play instead. A front locker probably wouldn't have helped much here due to the lack of weight on the tyres but at least I wouldn't have been so gentle due to worries about the stock(ish) front diff going bang and having to drive home. http://youtu.be/dCpvGABBDZg

And the list grows with yet more projects...my poor old ugly duckling 'Mog getting neglected for the spoilt rotten Series!

I just ordered a set of the flanged bolts, spacer and a new bottle of loctite, I just assumed they would be right as that set-up wrked fine with my ARB, maybe a little shy of fully through but it has held up so far. Out at the weekend in dry conditions and had a lot of wrap issues, mostly front of course, so I think I'll need anti-wrap to cope with the locker. Finding space will of course be the problem. Ps I haven't forgotten that other item Soren, just hoping for the exchange rate to improve lol! I might have just spent the cash on this Ashcroft Locker but doing 70 hours this week will help top the funds back up.

The Stage One 24/23 shafts are just coiler shafts long broached like the KAM Locker shafts but parted off shorter. ps My Ashcroft Locker came today! Shame I forgot to get a spacer ring, grrr!

The old sticks of Blackpool Rock! You had me interested there too, briefly.

No they are Rover length but 24 spline both ends like the Kam ones I have in mine. I got my Stage One V8 24/23 shafts from Rakeway. Oh and I just ordered a shiny new Ashcroft locker to go between the front shafts. I'll leave the ARB in the back as it's easiest to remove when the seals leak!

Sorry, just speculation on my part. I haven't got the parts to hand to get measurments or make the comparison for you. I'm sure the idea is sound but that's not the same as spending money. Maybe give Rakeway a call/email. Just don't expect anything to happen in a hurry!

I remember seeing a big wheeled yank jeep that had a strap that went under the tyre circumfrentially on the deck and was then wound up with a tiny ratchetting winch and removable handle into a carrier. It held it tight against the top. Lift and lock in one relatively light package. the carrier was just a light perimeter frame that swung away for access. A pin went through the centre for safety and to lock it.

If the 3.54 crown wheel is thicker like the rover is over the 4.7 then could you not get a spacer ring made up like used to fit the aftermarket Rover centres designed for the 3.54 gearset with a 4.7. It won't be as cheap as a mass produced spacer but would do the trick would it not? They both fit the housing and have the same side gears. For overland a pair of Truetracs would be nice as they are very robust and to my mind give the same sort of smoothing out action, but across the axle as an autobox gives overall.

Ashcroft's have the Salisbury TrueTracs on their site. I fitted an ARB to a mates Salisbury back axle. That was the easy bit. Rebuilding the worn out ARB purchased from eBay was the hard part. It needed a lot of machining and making good with new wear faces. It's been spot on since though!

I recall something about flow rates and back pressures one way or the other but, I'd say, Just do it!

Don't put a Detroit No-Spin in a front axle, ever! I'd say save up for an ARB. You'll only end up upgrading later. A TrueTrac would go in the front Ok. I was a big fan of mine but when I went permanent 4wd the torque steer when driven was causing too much understeer on my 88" without PAS. I started out with a TrueTrac in the rear then moved that forward when I got No-Spin but I quickly junked that for an ARB as it was a bit weird on the road and good off road but at the expense of steering when it chose to lock up and shove you on. Saving up for an Ashcroft for my front now but that's not an option for your Salisbury unfortunately. Oh, and the plumbing really is no big deal.

I use a Disco 1 back box. I had one and it does the job just fine. It was a bit harsh before.

Not quite an 80" trialer but this is my 88" on Saturday in the Scott Williams Memorial Challenge at a ridiculously wet West Harptree. Goodwinch TDs 9.5c on the front and the same on the back in Champion flavour, both running synthetic rope. Just bolt the winch/winches on and have a go. I did and loved it!

I thought I would test the rear winch. It occured to me this would be a good extra level of safety when changing springs. Of course I wouldn't rely on it singley!

My 200Tdi, LT77 and LT230 went in without chassis mods or clearance problems in an 88". I just made new engine and gearbox mounts which fit from the original chassis points to the new engine/box mounts. I left out PAS due to points too and have been considering the Heystee style setup from a DIY perspective for some time. It's a get around to it job.

Definetly would like a one for a Series as well. I'm sure I could gas axe one to fit if it came to it.

My 1961 has a SIII bulkhead fitted along with screen and dash. My original bulkhead was rotten and back in 1998 when I replaced it nobody really cared. I got it for the right price from PRB Services. I now wish I had got a SII bulkhead just to stop people pointing fingers.

When I was at Sea we used to grind our own valves but those where big buggers, a couple of feet across.

I moved mine forward. I took it to flush with the bonnet edge not overlapping.

I turned my gear stick 180° in the splined fitting and rewelded it so it sat further back. I then had to put a bend in the difflock lever back over to clear. If you didn't know you would never spot it. It clears my Raptor Dash comfortably now.

Yes I didn't mean to type LT230, but I have one of those too.

I manged to squeeze a 200Tdi and LT230 in to my 88 and keep the centre lights. How hard can it be? How a bout a rad behind engine in front of bulkhead like a Whitbread? Stumpy bellhousing and Rakeway reduced output are options if you want to go spendy.

It's been mentioned dozens of times. If you look in the tech section there is a detailed write up on how to do it. Some people prefer originality others don't like messing about with brakes. Some insurers are fussy about such things and the kits are very spendy.