RobotMan

Absolutely fantastic weekend!

I agree the newest systems are astonishing. I had a go in the new Rangie earlier this year and was well impressed. The reality is that a lot of us can't afford the newer ones certainly not as rough and tumble off roaders. If a kit could be put together for similar costs to that of a locker or such aftermarket toys then it becomes very interesting to bolt to say a challenge motor or such.

Thanks!

I'll add more write up later when its actually finished. Essentially it went forwards but also up a bit too. You can see how everything is nicely tucked up underneath. I was hoping to have it finished for the Scott Williams Memorial Trophy this weekend but alas, no. Still I guess I can make do with a classic Range Rover instead.

As per title I'm looking for the length of the clutch slave rod for a Defender LT77. I suspect I might have used a series part in there. The one I have is 92mm end goes in flush to the outside of the housing once the slack is taken up. This seems wrong to me and leaves next to no pedal on the new clutch. I don't want to have to strip everything out if its simply the wrong rod. I haven't any here to compare against and can't find any info beyond tips for poking the clip back in.

It moves!

No where near ready! But we'll be there by hook or by crook.

He'll be as grumpy as Fridge by Christmas! Big hammer by the way!

The two smaller eyes go to one of the securing clamps on each clock under the knurled nut.

My '61 has three point inertia belts. I fitted them. It seemed a good idea to me regardless of the exemption.

Put your seatbelt on. It will hold your backside in the seat.

That's why they are machined post welding. Still with a hefty jig and careful welding it may well be useable. Its worth a punt if you get the bits reasonably priced and you are a decent welder. PS. Forgot to say, top job on the hybrid Diff!

Whoops typo well spotted.

When the axles are made new we have a very large ram to re-true the casing and then they are machined and the Diff holes drilled. The best solution would be to get a post 07 axle casing. They are the same as a 90 bar the Diff pcd (p38), the spring seats 10mm further outboard and of course the simple Diff pan behind the very worthwhile reinforcing ring. If you are going to do your own then the most important bits Diff and shaft fit wise are ; Diff face parallel to a line through the centres of each end flange. The Diff face shoud be 42.1mm from that line. The Diff hole rotation needs to be very tightly controlled too (can't remember without going back to the drawing). The centre of the Diff flange needs to be on the projected line perpendicular to the face. If you don't get that right it will eat shafts, drive flanges and probably the Diff centre too.

I weighed my 'Mog last week. 2340Kg including fuel and mud! Plenty of challenge trucks tipping that end of the scale. The cab, also central and swivel mounted, comes off with just three bolts. The pedals and steering stay with chassis. They should be relatively easy to move back to a regular driving position. Depends on how much you think it will be better than the vehicle you started with?

Still not finished, shameful I know. Other projects and lots of overtime being my excuse!

Anything is possible! I've looked at my SII 88" and my 404 'Mog side by side and thought "No, don't even think about it " to myself. Rear prop, Diff nose length and tyre size mean you'll need a 109".

I have a Designa chassis standard galvanized. Its nice and has survived serious abuse. Wouldn't bother with the coiler conversion nowadays.

Not sure it would cut a rock! I'm thinking of using lexan sheet to make a skid plate under mine. My transmission is sat higher than standard mind.

It's an FRC5428 narrow non cross drilled gear. The FTC 5089 suffix C onward 26 tooth gear is wider and won't fit.

I though it was the same as a 28D 26 toother but doesn't seem to fit even with a big hammer lol. Going behind an LT77s btw.

Lt95 with 101 short bellhousing. Avoid parabolics use standard multileaf springs. Get a parachute to deploy for braking! Build yours standard, sell it. Buy a v8 80" trialer and put it on the road.

Not that bad. That's how I build them ;o)

You are absolutely right the Series boxes have a common high and varying low and LT230s are the other way about. What does therefore matter when running an LT 230 with 4.7:1 diffs is final gearing in high for normal road use. This is why I'm going with the 1.003:1 From the back of a torqflite box. Comparing it to my previous setup up, Series box Ashcroft hi - ratio transferbox and 4.7 diffs it will be broadly similar in top box and third will now be about where 1st was in low box. This gives me two above and two below where my old first waswas. I rarely used to go beyond third low anyway.