RobotMan

I'll be looking at a crawl ratio of 56:1 with LT77/1.003:1Lt230/4.7:1 diffs which should be about right

I guess because they are comparatively short.

Was this the one on eBay?

Good idea with the fwh

I love it when a plan comes together!

When I was a lad my dad had a 109" with a 2 1/4 diesel. It would cruise at 80 after we gave it a proper rebuild.

Across from Temple Meads, I know it well and remember it vaguely at the same time Mate of mine is just about to rebuild a 2 1/4 Diesel for a SII. mad fool!

I got mine on today. Shortened to 608mm fully closed. Damn thing still binds when I get to about 15" travel. I haven't had the grinder to it yet though ) I only have 5mm slide in that 15" mind!

Are you planning to bolt coiler axles under? If so just measure up the position of the originals and then chop em off!

Very nice Siren.

Five bearing 2 1/4 petrol.

Some pictures. You can just about make out the replacement steel framework.

I made a half height side hinged door from a cut down 110 rear door that the glass had been smashed in. Added additional internal bracing, a shiny stainless steel capping and a Disco wheel carrier. Works well.

I bought a set of rears about 3 years ago to replace 10 year old CPC pair which where still good but I snapped one snagging it on a big boulder. Anyway, the Paddocks where knackered within months! Really sagged and miss-shapen. I reckon it's just luck of the draw with them.

I think I have seen it somewhere. Google would be the answer. I looked into it too but I don't think it would have suited my needs. Might well be worth a try though.

Why not build the hybrid people should really build? Disco bodied leafer ;-)

43" x 57" measured at capping level. Swb and a Sankey, best of both worlds then.

Sounds like the idler jet is blocked. I haven't run one for years but it's on the inner face of the carb towards the bottom. Simply unscrew it then using a standard bicycle pump pressed against the pointy end , give it a good blast and put it back in. Keep the pump in the motor with you it is handy to have I eventually went back to a Zenith, mainly because the Webber was worn out. I run a 200 Tdi now mind!

Much less! Quick description of my Series Front Axle. Stage one axle casing but any Series casing would work as it's only the castor angle that is different. Stage One Hubs and swivels. I got the whole Stage one axle complete with diff shafts CVs etc for £50. Sold the Diff for that much Shafts are in storage for a rainy day ( price is scary lol). CVs where Donald Ducked but then again we won't be using them anyway. New 24/23 Shafts in 4340 where supplied by Rakeway Motorsport at £140 each. These are coiler shafts with the spline cut extra long then just cut down to your required length. Not cheap but no dearer than any other 4340 LR shaft. I got a Set of early 110 AEU2522 CVs from a friend. I also got replacement swivels form LR Series these where dear but all Series swivels are expensive these days new. New Railco bushes and King pins where machined up from cheap as chips standard Series ones. The drive flange needs to lose a few mm, again easy job on a lathe. The last change is that the diapraghm that holds the shaft seal in the swivel needs removing and fitting the other way around to line up with the shaft seal flat which is in a slightly different location along the shaft. Bolt it all together with you choice of 24 spline differential! I run a 24 Spline TrueTrac up Front and a 24 Spline pegged ARB with KAM 24 spline shafts in the rear (Shafts where bought second hand from this forum about five years ago for £50 I think it was for the pair. They have since taken an absolute beating, even took out a Detroit Locker without any sign of damage). Not bullet proof but significantly stronger whilst keeping within the constraints of using Series parts. Apart from the cost of the Shafts and Diffs the rest really is just service parts after all. Album of pictures. Another alternative is; Take a series casing weld on coiler axle end flanges. Bolt on TD5 Coiler hubs. Use the above shafts to accomodate the Series lengths. Drill an additional hole in the LH front steering arm. Use the two original holes for a front mounted track rod. Use the new hole for the drag link. Ignore the Ackerman issue, pretend you are a comp racer lol! (Much simplified but that's the bones of it).

Three foot ten rings a bell. I cut two inches off my 4' Hi Lift so it would fit lengthways on top of the seat box. I'll try and remember to measure it this afternoon.

Nice job and well written up, thank you!

Steven, You sir are a star. I had browsed bearings of the same diameters on various sites but they all showed the same ~20mm thickness. This must of course be the greater of the two parts. Hopefully I won't find anything else left to trip me up now.

As in an RD32, that was my first thought. I don't think so though as the offset for the crown wheel is identical to the centre that came out it's the seal housing end that is giving me grief. I'm very puzzled! If the bearing was 4mm thinner then everything would fit perfectly.

Bearing list From the drawing item 14 1 TAPERED ROLLER BEARING 160107 which is the 20mm 382 bearing I have. More and more puzzling!

A mate of mine bought an ARB for the Salisbury in the back of his 110 from e-Bay. When I stripped it for him I found it looked like it had been running in grinding paste. It is also a very old piston type rather than the current diaphragm sort, not that that is a problem. I have rebuilt the diff now but I have discovered that on the seal housing end a standard 382 bearing when fully home will not have cleared the inner 'O'ring channel. We are looking at a 4mm differance in thickness of the bearing to fit in the casing. This is without any shims behind the bearings. Should I be using a thinner bearing at the seal end? Could it be that this isn't an RD20 but something similar? I would have thought the RD32 and whatever fits the D60 to be very similar at least in bearing size with just the crown wheel mounting face being offset differently. Basically any info or suggestions would be very gratefully received as I'm a bit stumped now! Alongside is the original centre. You can see the extra length that using the standard bearing gives me and that the crownwheel sits the same.