GW8IZR

Ah! mine did that a few weeks ago in the Lakes.. it confirmed that a route I'd walked many times wasnt where I thought it was.

Thatcham alarm fitted.... if ever there was a waste of money and scotchloks

Not a bunfight but a vigorous discussion :0) Not sure a 2.25 or 2.5 appeals any more.. got many scars and a tee shirt for that but maybe petrol will be forced on us by legislation. If so I really fancy going down the line of a Rover 620 engine or similar.. I'm not phased by getting something to run outside of its usual domicile in fact that is part of the interest. However! I just started the theoretical design of my Polaris RZR.. I had the pleasure of a Hyabusa powered one in Norway a short while ago and that *really* appeals for my next retirement project.

Hmm..not a TDI fanboy here but there are other factors, no petrol engine is as electrically quiet as my TDI and thats an important factor to me, probably worth more than the few mpg gains . Others look at alternate fuels, you cant just dismiss others decision process based on on your own needs. Todays cost saving of 17mpg on petrol v 28mpg on diesel, that could easily be wiped out if the green lobby get their way with their current thinking. Maybe next time round I'll be driven back to petrol and that might be a good thing.. dunno. As I said before I've run LR's since the early eighties and have been round them since before I could legally drive em so I know enough to spot BS claims. The old 2286 was a nice engine and as someone mentioned before you can get them to tickover so slowly you almost need to check if its still running, no doubts a good engine. Also by almost blueprinting a 2286 and spending half your life setting tappets and timing then driving very carefully you can just about scrape a bit less fuel efficiency than a bog standard TDI.. its probably not a big sell to most people.

worked well and wrong place ... :-)

my approach is that its a Landrover and it uses ****loads of fuel to drag it round. I try to squeeze a few more miles out of each litre by keeping it in a reasonable state of tune, use sensible tyres and drive reasonably carefully but if it all becomes too much - a Donkey and cart is an option.

I would bet a lot of tdi conversions only just scrape that.. my 90 drops to 26/27 sometimes and thats driven fairly sensibly these days. the 2286 is a really nice engine but I dont think that it is particularly fuel efficient no matter what carb is fitted. (edit) we had a six cylinder 109 at work which was ours from new.. 11mpg was the best we ever saw from it and our V8 110 was better even towing an ATV and trailer

I wonder how many tdi conversions secretly yearn for a quieter petrol. All my previous series motors have been petrol, normally v8s I ran a v8 in my 90 and on its last rebuild decided the lure of a 30mpg 300tdi was too much to resist. I will run it till it fails which may be a long time but next time I *think* it will be a petrol again.... mebee on gas

That looks nice

For more years than I care to remember I've done the up / down shout at some 'willing' assistant and its always been fine but fairly recently I bought a 20 quid vacuum bleeder from e-bay. this kind of thing.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder-Tester-Set-Bleed-Kit-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Motorbike-/271479478406?hash=item3f35701886:g:EBIAAOSwLVZViAo6 Its made my life a lot easier

sometimes plastic stuff just deteriorates with age and exposure to hydrocarbons / UV / heat whatever. Its usually a badly chosen plastic in the first place but twenty od years later ( or whenever ) we get to find out. Anyway you are on the case so good luck with the fix.

I once borrowed a little tow along digger, two wheels and feet with a Perkins lump. Single actor and a fairly small bucket .. it was sooo handy and I always thought if I ever spotted one similar I'd buy it. I've never really spent much time looking for one and I reckon when scrap was through the roof thats where they probably went.

sorry for the long link but: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Versatip-2000-6-Soldering-Accessories/dp/B002LARRQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1445273527&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+solder

Allis Chalmers B here.. It needs a starter motor refurb now and a cover for the battery box but its in vy good condition otherwise

it depends a bit (nearly funny) on what you are soldering and how well you have been instructed. Like a socket set or spanner set.. one size doesnt fit all jobs, some need a bit of reach, some need a bit of flex etc. If you are doing general and occasional jobs on vehicle electrics such as terminating connectors and repairing stuff, as long as the job is clean and you dont let the iron get too hot a portable butane gas iron is very useful. You have to be careful where the exhaust is blowing as it melts things including your fingers if your not careful. They have a huge advantage there are no trailing leads to burn or trip over. I have cheap dremel ones in the cubby box and one in the big tool cabinet. If you are repairing or modifying things such as PCBs you really need a temperature controlled iron and for my money you cannot beat the Metcal range. But they are expensive. Keep a good selection of tip shape and sizes at different temperatures. I couldn’t live without them .. sad I know! They are only 20W yet they will generate exactly the heat you need and are very accurately temperature controlled. Weller 45W TCPs have fallen out of favour as the industry now says you need something far better and more expensive. I used to section surface mount chip components after failures and for sure I know I could solder with a TCP or a Metcal and you wouldnt be able to tell the difference. But they are out of favour nonetheless and can be picked up for next to nothing. Again, with care they are a good tool. 240V mains leads really have no place in the field so be careful with a hot iron on the end of an easily melted wire. An aerosol of re work flux is handy to keep in stock and some IPA for cleaning the joint. There is no evidence of failure induced by not cleaning the flux but it looks so much more professional The instruction is very important though. Anyone that can pee can solder but they need to know how to do it as its not entirely intuitive If bits are burning out quickly, joints failing or you are melting the insulation, you need to look at the materials and techniques. HTH

And a litre of water doesn't tiddle on his head the first time he touches the brakes :-)

What you could do if you just want to dip your toe in the water here and see whether its worth while, there are knock off Chinese trackers on e-bay for about 40 quid, a ten quid pay n go sim and just do a temporary lash up in the car. Use it for a few weeks and see what you think. If it doesnt work out re sell it for a few quid and its not cost you the earth. I've deployed a few on plant ( not in the UK, but in a country where 4G and LTE is the expectation not just 2 bars of GSM if you are very lucky. But thats another story ) Its worth looking at what the operators are doing in your area to find out who has the best ( even vaguely acceptable ) coverage. If you garage the car and the roof is steel the device will probably lose GPS, in that case it ups the current consumption as it uses more GSM data to keep its location and that might be a consideration if your battery is a bit flaky or the vehicle only gets occasional use. GSM and GPS can be fairly easily jammed so like all security devices - treat them as part of a system, not the end game. HTH

it does rather look like a solution looking for a problem to solve. I suppose if you are a main dealer all those 20 minute savings over a year might make a fair difference and you could use unskilled labour for that task.. Dunno, interesting but not likely to be something I need to worry about, the way the world is going I'm more likely to need a bale of hay for a donkey than an oil change :-)

Oops.. please don’t waste too much time trying the wheels for me, I know what fits.. well almost :-) *If*you have a ten spline shaft knocking about it would really help if you could measure its diameter and length, tell me if its got a seal land and confirm if the alloys fit over that. My donor vehicle for the engine swap was a '97 Discovery 300 TDI with flat one piece 24 spline shafts and thats where the alloys came from, of course they fit the 24 spline axle but the axle I currently use is a very early imperial 10 spline RRC axle - which I refurbed and it has my quaife ATB 10spline diff. The Discovery alloys definitely wont fit the big RRC mushroom half shafts. The ten spline ATB diff hasnt done a lot of work and I'm not going to swap it for a 24 spline as its not worth it for what I now do with the vehicle. The easiest job would be swap to the 200 tdi 10 spline shafts but unless I just punt on a pair and try it I wont know for sure. The next would be to swap the axle ends to the later setup, swap to a mix of 300TDI 24 spline parts with imperial hubs and 10 spline shafts which is straight forward but it makes it a bit of a Frankenstein and makes spares harder to manage. I *could* use all 24 spline bits and do away with the ATB but it works so well towing big trailers out of fields. Thanks for the help and pointers so far..

Oh yes, thats the plan. I always run wet bearings where possible. I could really do with knowing how long a D1 ten spline shaft is. There is sonme info on Ian Ashcrofts page but I don’t know whether the length includes the one piece drive member - I may be able to measure one of mine here and see how it compares to the dimensions on the page. The short shaft on my 90 should be on speed clips the number of times its been out this weekend :-)

You can download individual sheets using viewranger - its pretty good. The normal road maps and street maps are free downloads and when I subscribed I think I got a free OS sheet of my choice to play with before I parted with any money. HTH Paul

Thank you Ralph, the most interesting thing about the info you posted is the illustration in LRCAT for the 10 spline. That does not show an oil seal land on the 10 spline shaft, that sort of suggests that I could just swap the half shafts and everything would be fine. the 3/8UNF bolts are the same as my imperial axle and I measured the diameter of the recess that the drive member on the half shaft sits in on the hub - its the same. So that does rather put me back on the tracks of just swapping the half shafts for D1 10 spline with the thinner drive member.

Talk about a hotch potch of dimensions! My desktop looks a bit of a mess :-) I have started measuring stuff up and my stumbling block is the D1 24 spline shafts wont fit through the old imperial stub axles 'cos of the seal land. As the seals are the same I suppose the 10 spline shafts wont fit either. I can swap the drive flanges to the later metric ones without problems but that wont help. I could machine the seal lands off but that makes them very hard to roadside fix. Soooo.. it looks like I need to refurbish my D1 24 spine axle but then fit early 10 spline half shafts without the oil seal so I get my preferred wet bearings. I presume the 10 spline shafts use the metric drive flange bolts and the seal lands? This means I will have a recently refurbished imperial axle with all new bits that I will have to put in the pile of 'important spares that I must keep in case I need them' :-/

Reading this suggests that is the case: How does Nexcel work?Nexcel works rather like the ink cartridge in your printer. It contains the engine oil and filter, as well as electronics to interface with your car for management. The exact amount of motor oil needed is pumped out of Nexcel into the engine to then circulate and lubricate as normal, returning to the Nexcel unit to pass through the filter. It can work in a wet or dry sump system, depending on the requirements of the car. With Nexcel, the idea is that you'll always be using the right amount of oil and the right type of oil, with a close interface between the car's management systems and Nexcel. When it comes to changing the engine oil, you'll select a service setting on the car's management system. The oil will be pumped back into Nexcel and the entire oil cell is removed. The new oil cell is then slotted into the housing and the required amount of oil is pumped out again.

How long before we as LR owners end up drilling the top of the housing and fitting a filler and dipstick?