GW8IZR

agreed, thats what I now have back on mine, I put the recessed ones on as they are a bit more pedestrian friendly but they do seem better than Aerocatches if you can live with the funnel effect..

Aerocatches let in water when you leave it out in the rain ( I know its Land Rover ) but depending where you fit them the long term trickle of water can be a nuisance

They are cute and cuddly creatures that deserve to live - right up to the point that they make you re wire your house, kill your chickens and bring Weils disease to your children. When you shift the bodies remember they are potentially diseased and use protection when you get shut of them. Remember their tiddle is potentially diseased, clean it with disinfectant You cannot co exist with them, they are fine as long as you keep them away from humans I leave my mice and rats alone as long as they keep out in the field, if they make their way toward the house the last thing they will hear is one click. One last poison related thing - remember that slugs, slug pellets and hedgehogs are a bad mixture

I have stopped poisoning them as they smell like mad 'till you find them and if you cant find or get to them the flies are awful. The electronic things are a waste of time, they just ignore them after a day or so. Snap trap and peanut butter is the way to go.. if you try to be humane you will just end up with a bigger problem and end up killing more of them anyway. They spread disease and tiddle everywhere on their way to feeding areas so their friends can join the party later so make sure you disinfect the access and egress points to break the trail or you will have a never ending job. A cat or a terrier is a really good solution, even the smell of a cat reduces the infestation but it is hard to get them to work out I like wild birds and dont like mice :-) As an aside I once made a mouse trap that ran them over a grid made of fuse wire, nothing less than 1Kv would kill them. Certainly 240V was infective. As another aside, in the seventies / eighties damage to railway signalling and communications cables was so bad that we resorted to brass tape armour. That wasnt to protect the cable by strengthening it - the sharp edges of the brass was able to slice their mouths up and make them unable to feed, equally effective on rats and mice.

.......and if you re condition your own original axles you have one less thing to worry about with regard to preserving its identity. Also when you bust a wheel bearing or a calliper ten years down the line you can easily work out what bits to order, when you convert you always have to remember what bits you used where .

It looks like most I see as well, when you say 'scrape' remember that means scrape not gouge great lumps out of it ;-) I always end up blowing debris / spilt oil and coolant out of the head bolt threads with an airline as well.

on a deflection test they were pretty much identical, so similar in fact even down to the mould flash... ( STC434 ) was what I tested against - thats what I used on my 90 when it was a 4 cyl petrol and eventually a V8 on an adapter kit.

I fitted them and they were no different to the normal petrol ninety mounts that I took off. They were not expensive though and they stop the engine falling out but next time I'll just put normal mounts in.

What I meant is its very difficult to put a table together that covers all variations.

With all data like that on the page quoted you need to treat it with care, some ( I expect all ) 2286 petrol 90's had 1.4 transfer boxes from the factory.

http://radios-uk.com/tlkrt5accessories.htm Will do what you want

14' tube on a 16' rim.. hmmm, I wouldn't be using that fitter again.

Blwyddyn Newydd Dda!

Not a definite answer but my local ATS will not repair a puncture which is outside of the middle 65% of the tread band and I think for cars it might be 60% but thats only a few mm difference really. So if I took it there they would say no. Depending on the tyre and what you are using it for I suppose at a push you could tube it.

I always used to weld a bit of bar over one of the nuts, I can't ever think I'd need to remove the winch without being near to my grinder. Sadly it seems plenty people go equipped with a battery grinder to pinch cats today so my old anti theft device would only annoy them for a few seconds...

Same here but I think its just easier to let it go ;-)

When the captive nut and the end of the stud fall into the door pillar don't lose heart, the aperture exposed by removing the lower hinge is big enough to fish the bits out with a bit of welding wire, if they are mild steel a magnet helps.

Well it was a question that was raised as part of a discussion, it's a pity if that's unacceptable

I'm no expert but I think that would be chucking the baby out with the bath water, you'd lose the advantages of oil at all tilty angles etc.

Suppose if you wanted, dry sump and electric pump is an option?

A whole day without fixing anything Merry Christmas everyone

I must admit I have found view ranger very good and reliable. I do like being able to jump from iPad to iPhone to pc without issue Not tried on the Linux laptop yet - in fact there isn't much on telly and I can watch Paul Ogradys dog show with one eye so I'll have a bash at that tonight :-)

Its a really good question and one of the reasons I've never wanted to try to extract too much extra power and torque out of a TDi. I reckon adding an extra cylinder and its extra bearings is a safer way if you want reliable power, say designing for 200K miles? However for a weekend toy or weekend vehicle adding a bit more power with a turbo mod, well if it wears out quicker it doesn’t really matter in the great scale of things. Its typically already done 170K miles and in its new configuration may do another 20K miles so quicker wear isn’t the end of the world. When I rebuilt my current 300 TDi it was showing a fair bit of wear in the bottom end bearings at 178K miles but that was a typical 'farm maintained' vehicle with tar for oil. I wonder if Bowie69's question could be answered by determining what bottom end wear is like in most lumps at 200K miles of normal use?

To be fair I kept my RR running using bits from lots of cars as well.

Hello Nigel, I must be one of the last remaining old farts that wont have a FB account so cant read the link, is it just the winch being targeted or other accessories at the same time? regards Paul