Bowie69

Thank you Michele

It will rotate the axle, but ultimately it will limit it, yes.

Great to hear from you Jason, and that things are continuing to look up, sounds like you have a good support network surrounding you as well, lucky guy

I can see how that could work, yes, so once you have done the auto-tune routine for the LPG, you then tune it finely using MS, is that what you are suggesting? I agree a narrow band is fine for tuning LPG or petrol.

Huh? Sorry but that goes against everything I know about LPG injection ECUs. Care to elaborate?

Which do you expect to use most? I'd tune for that and let the other one alone.

Same fuel map will be fine for both LPG and petrol, as the LPG ECU modifies the injector pulse times to suit the LPG injectors characteristics, so it needs the SAME nicely-tuned petrol map to work from. You do of course need to tweak the LPG spark table to suit, this gives a lot of good benefits

That's easy, Jaffa Cakes.

Starret do a 6" hole saw: 152mm / 6" Dual Pitch Professional Bi Metal Hole Saw £51 though... A gas bottle isn't that thick or especially hard, as above I think your best choice is likely to be a jigsaw in the end.

Water-jet cutting is much neater than either oxy or plasma.

I think this similar to what you are on about: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82206 *edit* Another psot about it: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82206&p=706553

Vagueness can often be worn rear bushes inducing rear-steer as you let on/off the throttle, and hitting bumps.

To be fair, they were ripped out of my old RRC which went the way of the dodo, so not sure what sort of life they had already had...

Quick, someone register jcb4x4.com .....

My twin mondeo fans are wired through two 40A relays, and 30A fuses, and still they manage to weld the relays contacts closed occasionally, they are Bosch relays so not rubbish.

Personally I would run two, in case you get a wiring fault in the rear, and then still need to use the front winch to get out of where ever you are!!

Thanks Ralph

If coolant has been inside the combustion chamber it will smell of diesel/oil for sure...

It might be different box, but the selector housing could still contain the same part, unless Ashcroft have it wrong... Looks like you will want to be changing the oil out for MTF94 then...

Ashcroft: What oil should I use in my R380 gearbox? We recommend MTF94 in your R380 box. After a long run in my Discovery, when the gearbox gets hot, the gear lever becomes stiff when moving from side to side. Why? The nylon cage at the end of the selector rail can swell when hot, and cause friction. To rectify this, the parts needs replacing. You can find this part here It is the same part apparently... What oil did you put in it? Lots more FAQs here, decide which best match your symptoms: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=218

It's very close, so I would relay them.

I know Bish had his centre-mounted winch(behind the bulkhead in his 90) running through a donut bolted to the rear cross member, not sure of the measurement, but it worked fine as I recall.

Yep, I had it the axle roll wrong way round, thanks Bill. So basically, it's just **** *edit* Can someone make up a suitable avatar for Bill, with 2000+ posts you would think he should have one by now

I think the only trayback type RRC/Disco I have ever seen and though 'that's OK' was a Ute, from Oz... Like this: And this is OK, I suppose, I think they managed it due to not chopping out so much blummin bodywork: But even then, when you look at it from the back, it looks a bit odd(!):

I think it is likely down to quality of steel used in all honesty, look at the RRCs, up until about 1988 they survived very well, then change in steel, but nothing else and anything 1989-1994 just flakes before your eyes, well the bodywork anyways.