Bowie69

So fit one and it's no problem?

Nige, 4.0l are thin metal as well, and crack and fall apart.

CHeers Fridge, nice to get some definitive info Mine is a Kent cam too, H200 IIRC, couldn't go much wilder with the autobox, but you could go silly with it if you really wanted as you're manual

Wires that connect to points 27,28,29,30,31 on connector 32 can all be ignored, these are to do with the aircon, so unless fitted are not required. It's a loose plug so leaving it in situ is not a problem. Connector 12: Top pin: ignition feed Next: out to fuse, inertia switch and fuel pump Next: Out to EFI warning light (not required or fitted in many cases) Next: Permanent live Next: Neutral/Park switch for auto box -not required is a manual, but very easy to fit if it is an auto Next: Heated screen input -not required if not heated screen is fitted, but easy to connect up if needed. Then you just need to ground the obvious points and job done. Alternator IND wire, tacho and main battery charging wire is part of a separate loom, so you can leave your existing wiring in place with no duplication. Speed sensor makes very little difference in my experience, but there is of course nothing to stop you fitting it anyways.

Good, at least you didn't have to strip the swivel at all

Well the cheap fuel tank made the decision much easier But I had thought about that space before I thought about chopping it about

Also allow for the possibility of a bumpstop or two falling off, you wouldn't want to write your tank off for the sake of £15 worth of bumpstop falling off... I did look at this for mine, but pretty sure it wasn't viable, though I don't remember the exact reasons

25 miles and 40 mins to nearest LR dealer, one supposed LR specialist about 10 miles away, but their stock levels are nil, and I can't think of any other suppliers except a normal motor factors within 2 hours driving tbh. I wouldn't recommend Somerset for it BTW

I reckon it could work if it was hosted right next to a LR dealership and another major LR parts supplier...

Given you have low readings on both banks, I would strip them both off and replace, then once you have it up and running again, get the coolant tested for gasses, or buy a kit yourself, they are only about £35 on ebay and means you can test over and over, and be sure the block is OK. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BT500-TEST-TOOLS-BLOCK-TESTER-KIT-/400204873011?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d2e11bd33 Something like this, although I am pretty sure I found mine slightly cheaper elsewhere. The test takes about 5 minutes from a warm engine.

Oh dear For a quick fix I would cut off the washer if possible, and weld a new one of the right size in it's place, then ring Britpart's complaint line and give em hell!

I wouldn't assume a new block at all, far too many V8s are scrapped because of supposed liner problems... Your figures suggest one, if not two head gaskets gone, get the heads off and have a looksie -I'd suggest sooner rather than later as water does tend to make a nasty mess of cylinder bores and valves

Can you weld a washer on the side of the dumb iron? My Lightweight had these originally, but I fail to recollect whether they are standard fitment on civvy vehicles....

Not getting enough, Fozzy?

Mandy @ Academy has got my Rangie covered, very cheaply, always gone down, professional, knowledgeable, and polite. My grandmother (age 93, 1953 split screen morris traveller) and my father on a campervan both use them, and are delighted with them

Android is Google's mobile and tablet operating system, most smartphones nowadays run this. http://www.android.com/about/

If you have an Android phone, download 'noto08', which when you try and phone an 08 number it automatically searches for a 'normal' alternative, to keep you within your minutes allowances

Mikey, are you still on the same axle from your accident?

You should still get a spark without the ECU plugged in, the ignition side is completely separate from the EFI side, bar one wire, which won't stop you getting a spark.

You remembered the seal retainer, right? Very easy to get it back to front as well, ask me how I know

I wouldn't be offering much more than scrap for that TBH (£350 ?), sounds like a helluva lot of work there. £500 sounds.. about right, maybe a bit tight Especially with the interior in poorer shape, some of the parts here are scarily expensive.

I was under the impression that the later ones DID have the amp on the dizzy, or was it removed really late in production( 98- or summat?) Certainly the late 3.9s you talk about had the amp on the dizzy for sure... have you got a mix and match parts setup there?

That's a Blitz Traka, I quite like them... yes even that one, for a bit of fun http://www.blitzworld.co.uk/traka-range-rover-i81.html 4 seats, and Rangie/Disco running gear, just need leather seats and you are away

300BHP on stock rover 4.7s... that is probably a recipe for disaster If you are lowering it, I'd stick with standard height wheels, but maybe go up a rim size, if that makes sense? keeps CoG low and allows lower profile stickier rubber for street use.

I'm sorry, but I really think you are over complicating the issue rather, you certainly don't need to know where each of the 40 wires going to the ECU go, the other ends of them are coded plugs as I said, so very hard to get in the wrong place, the only one I can think of is the CTS and FTS which can be swapped accidentally. Hotwire certainly runs absolutely fine with no speed sensor, fuel cut on decelleration works, IIRC, from the TPS value going to virtually nil, and uses the engine RPM to decide when to turn the injectors back on afterwards. The wiring loom from an EFI RRC for example is completely separate from the rest of the truck, it literally unplugs. Very few Hotwire trucks came with lambdas, if it has got them then you just unplug them and don't connect, change tune resistor to a suitable value, the info for this is on the web and in the workshop manual. There will be a wire for the aircon, if fitted, but I expect it exists on the truck even if it's not fitted, no need to remove, just leave in place and insulate off if you feel necessary. Ignition supply/battery supply and earth are all readily available on any LR product, so once you know the wire the loom expects to find ignition live, permanent live and ground just connect them up. Relays are all in separate holders and you don't need to touch them. Take the white/purple from the fuel pump relay and use this to feed the HP fuel pump and connect the white/black wire from the AFM part of the loom to your coil negative. No realy need for a check engine light, in fact the earlier Hotwire RRCs didn't even have one. If a manual you will need to connect together (or leave unconnected, I forget) the start inhibit switch wires. As for black wires for anti-theft, this is more likely to be aftermarket, but actually very easily bypassed, just trace the wires and match insulation colours and resplice, job done. It is likely you will find that most only cut the starter signal (both of mine did this, and a mates). Wiring diagram, looks bad, but you are only interested in the bits around the ignition switch, and fuel pump relay. Learn to read the wire colour codes and you are set. I have a mate with this setup fitted and working in a 90, adn is perfectly easy enough to work on, and a complete electro-phobe managed to fit it no problem.