Bowie69

Get a 1K potentiometer, set the brightness, then measure and replace with the fixed value. You will probably find the dim to off very very sensitive.....

The later ones do, yes, RRCs with plastic tank and Discos with plastic tank and the big red retaining ring. The return empties into the swirl pot. About 100mm diameter, by 150mm tall from memory

I'm not sure about the Discovery, but guessing here from the LR book of cost saving, it uses a very similar/the same loom as an RRC, and behind the RH rear lamp there is a round plug with all the connections for a tow bar in it. When I had my southdown guard on my RRC, I just used to unplug the socket from here and take the towing equipment with me., Wrap the socket in a plastic bag to stop it filling with mud Mine was an OE fitment towing kit originally, so could explain why it had this arrangement on the towing socket, but it did make for a very neat solution. I know others have wired in normal 12N sockets, but personally I think it is overkill, and more likely to get broken off road.

Exactly my thoughts on the subject Remember you will need a qualified sparkie to sign off all the work as it is an external building and therefore subject to the electrical section of Part P of the building regs.....

Change your relays first, far more likely to be this IMHO, and a lot cheaper, and a lot less work!

The pressure switch is on the pump! Same for P38 and RRC, if you 'hot wire' it, and negate to include this pressure switch then your pump won't last long at all. As far as I know there's no warning from the ABS system light to say it is up to pressure, as the light goes out after you reach 8mph, and the pump can run for as long as 30 secs before pressurising.

Aren't the manifolds on a TDI 3-piece? Looks to me like there is a replacement centre section of the manifold...?

Could also be fouled plugs if your WUE is off...

Without

Very common for the abs pump relay to fail, I'd check there first tbh.

Hydro moves the failure point to the drag link and track rod and ends, as the ram is downstream of the box, so a standard box (or quick standard) plus hydro should give you the most reliable system IMO.

Did something similar with my parents 'shed', which is lower than yours, but I raised the whole end wall in one, 4m tall, 3m wide, but make of 12"x4" timbers!

One stupid thing I did recently when sticking an SU on my 2.25, was to forget which was the petrol in, and which was the overflow, needless to say it showed the same symptoms as above May be worth checking, we all do something silly from time to time

Looks good enough to me

Like this? Or like this?

Found this to be the case many times, if only a bit noisey, keep driving and they do eventually self-bleed the air out, where it goes I don't know, but it does

You can also fit the later, improved RR P38 pump, which has an integral accumulator, these seem to fail less often.

What could possibly go wrong, it has MOT until December Drive it and have fun, or spend hours at 55mph....

According to the post I linked to, standard thread pitch for an M16 is 2.0mm, and various options of fine.

Pretty sure it did, yes, but was a while ago now Wheel nuts are M16 x 1.5 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35022 Haven't you got a thread gauge handy

Exactly! Getting it pretty damned near is much better than the 5mm step you now have I left the other end of the inlet and trumpets alone, there's not much to be gained here. If your heads are skimmed... you may want to try and find out if you need to skin the inlet, as the V of the heads gets smaller as more head material is removed, mine is JUST okay, need to jiggle the inlet to get all the bolts in cleanly.

Ross, Had this on a mates Rocsta (yes Rocsta with an X-brake!), using an RRC lever and an X-eng supplied cable. The thread is exactly the same as a LR wheel nut/stud. What we did in the end was turn down an old alloy wheel nut so it fitted inside the sleeve on the handbrake lever, threaded the cable inner through it and tightened it up onto the cable outer. Worked like a charm!

IIRC, the V8 EDIS units are wired upside-down compared to the EDIS4's, so you are likely to have to re-do all this wiring.

Wow, serious wheel bearing failure?

Nice looking heads I used pretty much the same method, drew around the area to remove with a sharpie, then get grinding/blending. You can get perfomance inlets IIRC, but depends what you want to spend....