Bowie69

Yes! Didn't want to point out the obvious and make you feel a bit silly, but really hope it is the problem and you get it sorted

You have put a socket or something over the end so the bush isn't bearing on the bolt head/nut of the bolt, haven't you?

Jason, Very envious of what you have built and the adventures you are going to have with that, very nice job, and have a good'un! Pete.

Yes, the shackle will bear on the chassis, the whole reason for having a bush in the first place

I too use a garden sprayer, rather slow.... but works. One day I will make a faster one with a tyre valve, pressure bottle and a pickup tube, and connect it to my compressor, pretty simple I guess There's one for sale on here you may know a bit about? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70018

I expect the tramlining effect on motorways to be much worse with just 2 fitted -like having a trailer which is a different track width to the tow vehicle. Personally I would just get some decent wheels with a suitable offset and not bother with spacers at all.

Any battery should be able to start the V8, they aren't particularly picky or hard to turn over.... what I am going to ask is how you are connecting the jump pack/other car to it? If positive to the battery, and negative to the engine/chassis then you could well have a duff earth strap -in fact you could still have a duff earth strap causing the problem. Put your battery on charge over night and see if it starts it then, if not, start hunting for bad/loose wiring.

Try a 2.5 petrol(maybe diesel as well.... don't know) 90/110, as these air boxes are about 5 inches shorter than the Disco box, which wouldn't fit my Lightweight.... pics here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69833&view=findpost&p=597456

Do you have +5" shocks on the front as well then?

It's nice and easy, even with a cheapo kit, I think mine was <£20 and included a pipe cutter. Took me two attempts to get a good flare the first time, and never looked back. Has saved me and a mate a few times on a weekend when needing to replace a line - I always keep a stock of pipe and fittings, check what yours are, I think they will be metric, which is M10x1, and very standard

Sorry Harry, this had me confused, it conflicted with the first post, if you are running Gwyns mounts on the rear, and 2" raised front turrets then it's pretty likely you are running spring a *bit* too stiff As above, they won't always contact, the stops (why are you running extended ones btw, clearance issues?) when flexing, but nose or tail down and flexing I would expect them to. .

They're pretty easy to fit, though I would recommend you getting or making the proper tool for the main shaft nut, hammer and bolster just isn't good enough IMHO.

If you're not touching the stops, and your shocks aren't bottoming out then your springs are too hard, or.... as I suspect, you are bottoming out your TF shocks, +5" shocks NEED to be used with appropriate +2" raised shock mounts/towers, if you are not doing this then this is definitely your problem.

Raised shock mounts Means you get full(ish) travel of your shocks.

Probably around 400l, if my maths are correct and they get 15mpg

Just needs to be painted in matt black and it'll be perfect for the SAS

My money would be on quality of metal. I agree I find less siezed bolts on Jap stuff, but then I dont suppose they get out in the field as often as LRs, which are bought as utility vehicles from the word go, LCs tend to be shopping carts for the first few years of their lives...

Yeah, then you get the people that remove them, but forget to get the bit that's left inside the box out

Why show pics of the Roverdrive Defender model? Series model pokes out the side, same as a Fairey: http://www.wiberg-wiberg.com/default.asp?sid=5 http://www.roverdrives.com/sx_model.html

Self amalgamating tape is great stuff, but I wouldn't us it in this situation, as it is a right pig to remove for modification/fixes. This looks pretty good, cloth bases, and should resist abrasion well: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110717123104 The other option is a non-adhesive tape, which is stuf with super glue or similar the tail ends: http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/fr/2754~PVC+harness+tape-details/

Bye bye 40bhp.....

I'd 2/3 fill with water, then weld, then empty, assuming you are welding the top of it. Did this recently, and was fine. Use a magnet on a stick to get the small particles of steel that are bound to fall in, out.

When they decided to change steel suppliers in the early 90's meaning their vehicle rusted out in half the time of earlier models.

In the rear tub is pretty common , a narrow upright one.

The computer system is structured in EXACTLY the same way the MOT Inspection Manual, and therefore any NT worth his or her salt should be able to navigate it. If it was a newly qualified NT that doesn't know their way around the Inspection Manual yet then it is somewhat understandable I suppose....