Bowie69

IIRC there's no sump casket, I just used a good quality RTV sealant, and plenty of it The lump in mine is a 1995 P38 unit too.... Exhaust manifold gaskets, use these: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4aa703889b or these http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c0e169827 They actually seal unlike the multi-layer tin ones.... Front end: timing cover, water pump gasket, but TBH, I can't think of anything else off the top of my head

Yep ^^^ Plus the air con fans come on anyways once the coolant temp leaving the engine hits 105C -that's the temperature that the switch on the side of the thermostat housing turns them on, regardless of air con switched on or not. Personally I'd leave alone, if you have cooling problems, fix the problems, don't mask the issue by putting more fans in front of the rad.

Why do you want to do this? But yes, investigate the relay connections and hwo to trigger it, and connect a switch to it.

Well today the crimper hasn't turned up yet... but went back and re-inspected the leads, first thing I noticed was the 4-core nature of these Magnecore leads which means fitting them to the crimp is a little different from normal, the reason being there is just not enough room in the crimp for 4 conductors to be bent over, instead Magnecor have a tang inserted into the end of the cut lead: The long end of the tang is pushed into the end of the lead, in between the 4 conductors, and the short one sits on the outside of the outer part of the lead so it makes contact with the metal of the crimp, and give a good path for conduction. Failure to fit this will cause the spark to jump between the HT lead and the crimp causing it to burn through. Note this is just a piece of scrap lead, hence the insulation missing One other point, I saw a mate and he let me have some industrial 'bumper and engine bay dressing' stuff they use when selling cars, and tried this out this morning by disassembling a lead and refitting, it was VERY VERY VERY slippery, and did make putting it back together a lot easier. I have used aerosol back to black silicon stuff before for other jobs, but it dries more than this stuff, which is not in an aerosol, but a 5l tin, it is REALLY sticky, and slippy. If I was doing it again (and I probably will at some point) I will get some more of this for the job. I put it in a little pot and dunked the whole boot in before fitting, slipped the string over the lead and pulled it straight through with no bother at all. Only thing, I have washed and scrubbed my hands about 4 times now with Fairy and a) They still smell of 'new car scent' b) I can barely type as my hands are slipping off the keys -apologies for any typos Another note... 'normal' 7/8mm leads with just one conductor you would trim the outer insulation to reveal just the black inner core, say 15mm or so, and bend this around the end of the lead before fitting and crimping, so basically the same shape as the tang above. Looks something like this: More to come when the crimp arrives...

Where abouts is the secondary temp sender fitted?

Good, now you can go back to the missus and say 'I am going V8 cos some blokes on the internet thought it way cooler'

If it is the same as an RRC, then there is a sort of door seal in that gap, but of course may be different for Disco. I do doubt that the cooling issue is due to this however, first thing I would do is get the coolant checked for exhaust gasses to rule out a head gasket failure, and check thoroughly for air locks, which I believe 300TDIs are renowned for. HTH

A mate has been running Megajolt for just over a year now, very pleased with it, and a very good increase in economy at the same time, due to being able to run two ignition maps. However, as he had a lovely set of Magnecor HT leads (not my choice I assure you) connected to his Dizzy, I reused these and instead of Generation 1 coil packs, I used the later 'normal' terminal coil pack, which you can connect regular HT ends to with no problems, as long as they have internal grips as well as the normal 'cage' on the end of them. A couple had come loose at some point and the result was completely burnt through terminals on the end of the leads from the arcing -I could have just got Magnecor to repair them, but instead after a PM to Nige, he suggested a mate of his had managed to get 10mm Magnecors through his 'Coil Pack Ignition Lead Ends Kit', so thought it worth a try, especially as I have converted 8mm leads before with no problems.... This will be a 2-part post, as I haven't fitted the terminals yet(!), but for starters lets get the boot on the leads Take one old lead, with a possibly burnt through terminal: Cut the end off with a pair of sharp wire cutters, make sure the end of the outer bit in particular is tidy, otherwise it will snag on the way into the boot: Clean the lead throughoughly, at least the first 6 inches, any dirt will make the lead stick in the boot, and any lube with be wasted. For all cleaning and lube I ignored Nige's advice ( ) and went with some bike lube I had kicking around, GT85, and it worked bloody well: Next job is to find some strong twine, very strong in my case due to the thickness of the HT lead... I found some builders lines (for marking out foundations, block work etc) and seemed to do the job well. Tie this in a knot around the HT lead, make sure you use one which is a 'slip' knot, as this allows the loop to self tighten around the lead when you pull on it. I used a two-half-hitches knot and it worked very nicely. Trim some of the excess off, not too much otherwise the knot may pull through and come undone: Feed the end of the twine through the boot from the narrow end : Now the first tricky bit, feeding the lead into the boot, put a bit of lube in the narrow end of the boot, and on the end of the lead, slip the lead into the end of the boot, making sure the outer silicon bit of the lead goes in nicely, and nothing left outside. Only push it in about 5mm (1/4" for old fogies!) as there's not enough lube to go any further and it will just get jammed. Now it is in this far, squirt LOADS of lube from the wide end of the plug lead, and cover the lead for about 6" with lube at the same time, now, as they say, it is time to start pushing. Keep the loop of twine out of the way for the moment, you don't need it yet. Push the lead in with a twisting motion, making sure you don't ruck up the lead outer, which can cause snagging. At the FIRST sign of progress slowing, stop and re-lube from both ends. Once you have done this you should be able to see the end of the lead from the with end of the boot, or at least be an inch into the boot. Now the tricky bit (hence no photo!), getting the lead round the bend; this is where the twine comes in... lube EVERYTHING again, and start pulling -use a rag around your hand to stop it from cutting into your flesh too much. It will take some force to move, especially with 10mm leads, but will go through in the end, pulling the wide end of the boot to straighten the bend as much as possible really helps. Eventually it will look like this: At this point you can trim and fit the terminals (tomorrow's job, once the crimper arrives) and then push/pull it back through the boot, I can't do this yet, so I'll just show off with a completed set of 8 Couple of other points, if it won't go, or the twine breaks, or the knot comes undone or for some other reason you have to start again, don't despair, as the boots have now had a good stretching the next time will be a piece of cake. Keep metal tools away from it, as you will bugger up the lead outer, or the boot, or both. Using this method and some practice I got it down to about 5 minutes per lead, taking my time, making sure I didn't arse it up Will post tomorrow once I have the terminals fitted up Pete.

Blue hylomar works great here....

Yes, No, and no need for specialist, but it can help sometimes. Honestly their biggest problem will be defeating the tin worm, it may look smart and together, but look in the right places (anywhere the steel is made from iron) and you'll be surprised how rotten it is I reckon...

Nice work, very tidy install

Agree with HoSS, any clean battery should not be delivering any measurable current, and just because the concrete is 'earth' doesn't mean it is the battery earth!

Reckon you have your plug leads wrongly wired, and your no1 isn't no1, and you are reading off the 3 or 8 coil.

Yes, I am on rhoads lifters, they are noisier, but only really when hot, and do not sound like a knock, more a slightly louder injector ticking sound. and no I didn't have anything to do with RPI!

There's no need to isolate the body if the 24v alternator from the engine, that's its earth connection.

How were you planning on charging the second battery? What you suggest would be a very bad design. Yes you can convert 24 to 12, change motor and solenoid and job done.

Diff pinion bearings?

Not all of us are made of money you know......

Yep, I'm still on stock shafts, carry two spares all the time, but not needed them yet...

Yeah, I'm also interested, looks a good fit that throttle body.

It's either that, or doesn;t the weber conversion use an aluminium spacer ring to up the size of the carb inlet?

Very sad

Try and find a different speedo head, they have a rev/mile number at the bottom of them, and do some maths to work out which should be about OK Weirdly I have a SWB lightweight and 235/85s on it at the mo, and the speedo is bang on, most accurate speedo I own! Sorry for OT

Yeah I think he mentions something about 2003 in his post, very nice work on the fuel rail I thought!

Yes, someone has done it, I was just idly browsing the web and came across a nice write up: http://www.melsteve.plus.com/LandRover/index.html I know quite a few people had been interested in doing this, so thought I would post it ut Cheers, Pete.